Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Oil Pressure problems R32


Recommended Posts


Just thought I'd post this up since it may be of concern to some of you.

I have always had fluctuating oil pressure issues with my R32 GTS-T but when the engine recently spun a bearing and the engine was pulled down, I found that 3 of the 5 or 6 countersunk screws were not only lose but wound out up to 2-2.5 threads. Keeping in mind that these screws hold the back cover to the pump and thus maintain a pressurised area. No wonder I spun a bearing :)

Anyway, from all this I would suggest that if you're experiencing oil pressure fluctions you might want to get it checked out properly and not just assume it's the pressure sender or gauge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly. Constant pressure but rises and falls. Most of the time with my car I had a rather average reading on the gauge and at the lights it would fall off to zero but the pressure light wouln'dt come on so it seemed OK ( keep in mind that I had the oil pressure checked properly on an independant gauge for peace of mind ).

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I wouldn't say that it's an "EASY" job but it's not the worst job in the world.

The pump is located at the front of the engine. It's driven by the crank shaft and is located right behind the harmonic balancer.

I'd say your first line of action if you're sus about your oil pressure, is to get it checked properly by a mechanic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a pain in the arse to get to. It sits on top of the sump at the fron of the motor. Then in front of that is the camshaft timing pulley, which sit on a locating pin in the crank. Then the belt pulleys, or as FAT32 says the "harmonic balancer" which is also located with a pin. Both items on this pin must be removed with a "pulley puller" :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess it is a pretty sh!t job but I've worked on some of the worst cars ever built so in my opinion, working on most everything to do with the RB nissans ( import skylines in general )is pretty kind to the mechanic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bl4cK32, spend a couple of years working on cars like Citroen, Renult, Triumph, Jaguar, MG and some of the old Ferrari's, Lambohgini's, and Maseratti's and you'll smile at your nissan every time you work on it !! I DO, no matter how ugly the job is :P

BTW, my hands are not small but I learned how to get my hands into some very tight places.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

omg i sometimes get the symptoms u talked about fat32.

kinda scary coz it sounds like a big job to fix.

i've noticed it does it less when using different oils, but on the last change, using motul turbolight 10w40 technosynthase, i experiened quite a few times when oil pressure would just drop to 0 without warning light. it was always more the case of dropping oil pressures, never increasing. hmmm worried.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I'd get it checked out if I were you.

If the pressure's no good do something about pretty quick. If you think the bill to get a new oil pump fitted is expensive, try a full engine rebuild :( Ouch !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I have an R32 GTS4 and my oil pump is leaking. I want to take it off a replace the gasket and seal inside the pump - but removing my sump is not an option - with the transaxle being part of the sump I need to lift the engine rather than drop the sump. Should I be able to get the pump off without removing the sump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


u know what ya problems are

the oils your using

i used a 5-40 shell helix ultra fully synth

and my pressure went to 0

i use now a 10-40 semi synmth mix

or the 7.5-30 nissan mix

all sit around the same pressure

currently using 10-40 valvoline VR4 semi synth

used mobil1 synth S and penzzoil GT semi synth

all had the same results

Link to comment
Share on other sites

armbrusb ,

on 4wd 's you have to remove the engine to remove the oil pump , its the easiest way . its doable on the car but by the time you stuff around and drop the sump say 50 mm ( u have to lift the engine a little ) you may as well take the engine out then you can do the big end bearings at the same time . the oil pump doesnt have a gasket you use a liquid gasket , when you pull the oil pump apart to inspect use locktite on the bolts .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

what bearings are u talking about ? big conrod bearings u can do on a normal 2wd car but not the mains as u have to take the crank out . on skyline 4wds u cant take the sump off unless u take the engine out , so its no to your question .

why do you want to do bearings ? usualy if you are going to do bearings you do a complete engine rebuild . even if i was going to change bearings i'll take the crank out and grind it then use undersise bearings because if the bearings picked up the crank will not be 100% either , at least take it out and measure it .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha likewise, take my shit box for a spin and maybe you'll end up wanting a R33 shit box again lol...  
    • @Jasoncauser looks like a tight technical track, and definitely fun! Let's hope I make it to that day 😎  
    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
  • Create New...