Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 291
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you loved your GT-R, then you should get another one. It's a fantastic car with excellent performance and super potential (and I have a big soft spot for 33 GT-R's for some reason). It just may mean if something goes wrong you're going to have to accept it may be costly, but such is life with all racecars. :(

Such is the battle of the heart vs brain =\

What bothers me also thogh is the idea that someone in an S-Chassis who has spent a great deal less will chop me at the track, not because he or she is actually a better driver, just because the car is a better platform for racing

I think I said to Sav in PM, lotto would solve this...

But regardless of whether that is the case or not (which could be hotly debated!!) as long as you're having fun, and you enjoy driving the car then who cares! :(

There's always going to be someone faster than you so just enjoy. I've been contemplating selling up and moving to a Radical, but though it will be a hell of a lot quicker and infinitley more reliable I think, will it be more fun? I don't know... Fun is everything!

To an extent that's true but I would also like to step up into things like the Winton Sprint series and be competitive. Sure you can have lot of fun at a fun day not competing but I get a buzz out of competing too and that's a little less fun if you're being pummeled. Evidently, when reading through results from the turbo category, it's an R33 GT-R at the pointy end of the field most rounds...

Evidently, when reading through results from the turbo category, it's an R33 GT-R at the pointy end of the field most rounds...

maybe so, but do you have the coin to drop on a GTR to compete with those at pointy end?

If not, the solution is easy. Drop an SR + disco potato in the S13 for track days and enjoy hounding as many GTRs and Porsches as possible, and buy a nice GTR for weekend enjoyment.

maybe so, but do you have the coin to drop on a GTR to compete with those at pointy end?

If not, the solution is easy. Drop an SR + disco potato in the S13 for track days and enjoy hounding as many GTRs and Porsches as possible, and buy a nice GTR for weekend enjoyment.

Well that depends on what exactly is the right amount of coin I guess As it is I have two cars, the S13 and a BA Fairmont I use for towing the S13 to events so I dont have to worry about busting it. 3 Cars is not an option.

Yeah I've seen his name pop up here and there and met him at my first DECA.

I kept confusing him with Nick who ended up doing a bottom end on the day I think? Having said that, he had much love for the upper end of the rev range..

Here's another thought...

The AWD of the GT-R on a 33 is only really advantageous if the rears are spinning right? Or is there a constant drive to the fronts? If they only engage when the frons are spinning then you're losing time with all the rear end traction lose in a way... And if you're not using he fronts then u'r ust carrying the weight for nothing.

Edited by ActionDan

I dataloged the ATTESSA during Targa in the R33 V-Spec N1. I found it's very much based on gears (road speed) and gforces. Under heavy breaking some torque is sent to the front wheel to stableise the car. launching out of 1st 2nd gear corners you don't get a huge amount of awd in comparison to 3rd gear up (unless you clutch kick it). There is some redudual press that keeps a tiny bit of torque to the front wheels, but it mean 3/4 of f-all in the real word. The R33 rips you out of a corner in compaison to the r32 that you tend to have to fight more, cause of the faster/better programed ECU, and being able to shuffle the torque between the rear wheels (A-LSD)

My 33 GT-R was a V-spec with the A-LSD also and I found it to be awesome coming out of corners at all speeds but I wasn't sure if that was ATTESSA or just a great suspension setup and good tyres all round.

Whenever I watch Tsuchiya-san and his Touge battles a well setup RWD car usually has the edge in the twisty stuff though due to understeer. I think the current Touge monster is an RX7? which took the crown from an R34 GT-R if I recall correctly?

Edited by ActionDan
Well that depends on what exactly is the right amount of coin I guess As it is I have two cars, the S13 and a BA Fairmont I use for towing the S13 to events so I dont have to worry about busting it. 3 Cars is not an option.

well if it has to be one car for both, which is more important - weekends or track use?

Having a nice car for weekends, GTR wins hands down (well, for me anyway!). They are certainly a bit more special than any S chassis. And no SR can compete with the sounds of an RB26 at 8 or 9000rpm every now and then.

Or track use where a mild street trim GTR and for example a 200rwkw S14 are going to be similar in lap speed but the S14 will do it with cheaper purchase price, cheaper brakes, be a little easier on rubber and probably be less prone to engine failure, and much cheaper if the worst does happen. More prone to gearbox failure though.

It comes down to this - if you really want a GTR, an S14 isn't going to hold your interest more than a year or two... if my experience since selling my GTR is anything to go by!

well if it has to be one car for both, which is more important - weekends or track use?

Having a nice car for weekends, GTR wins hands down (well, for me anyway!). They are certainly a bit more special than any S chassis. And no SR can compete with the sounds of an RB26 at 8 or 9000rpm every now and then.

Or track use where a mild street trim GTR and for example a 200rwkw S14 are going to be similar in lap speed but the S14 will do it with cheaper purchase price, cheaper brakes, be a little easier on rubber and probably be less prone to engine failure, and much cheaper if the worst does happen. More prone to gearbox failure though.

It comes down to this - if you really want a GTR, an S14 isn't going to hold your interest more than a year or two... if my experience since sellign my GTR is anything to by!

I guess to be honest track use is more important since I do my utmost to keep my shenanigans to a legal environment and my license loves me for it now. That said I really miss having something t punt around on the occasional weekend, I'm not even talking every weekend. The S-Chassis in my head just has no class and I generally feel a bit embarassed to drive mine to a workshop etc, I put the street rims on and ditch the spoiler so I don't look like some try hard =\

As girly as it sounds, I think my heart lies with the R, the cost is the barrier, as it is for most of us =\

Who wants an S13 as part trade on an R33 GT-R? lol

Ants GTR is a good example of what you can buy on the market. But its not std. It has an R34 motor with R34 N1s Power Fc, exhaust, some decent suspension under it and a good driver. But it is a pretty good example of what a basic light tune GTR can do on big 18" 265 semis. But take Russ in his R32 GTSt. Same story, std RB20 with a 2530, some off the shelf Teins very similar to what Ant in the GTR is running and the thing is equally as quick. Just look at the vids from the weekend. Truth is often wish i had the grunt and grip of a GTR, it does everything so easily and consistantly. But then i float my lil R32 onto the straight at 180km/h at PI with a bit of oppy lock trying to get on the noise and i would not trade that for anything...lol even if my lap times are sometimes not as quick or whether i can consitantly drive the car quick.

So, its what you are after, but i cant see anthing less then 35k getting you rolling in a quick GTR. For 25k you can be in a weapon of a GTSt or S platform that could be quicker. So decide what it is you want to be driving and mod it. All tracks cars are simply a sum of their parts as most late model Nissans form a sound basis to build from. You have an R33 GTS25t which in my book is the best building block for a track car.

Regards,

My 33 GT-R was a V-spec with the A-LSD also and I found it to be awesome coming out of corners at all speeds but I wasn't sure if that was ATTESSA or just a great suspension setup and good tyres all round.

Whenever I watch Tsuchiya-san and his Touge battles a well setup RWD car usually has the edge in the twisty stuff though due to understeer. I think the current Touge monster is an RX7? which took the crown from an R34 GT-R if I recall correctly?

weight

when you look at most of the time-attack races or Touge battles the car which is lighter always has the advantage.

Its the main reason im second thinking a gtr because of its weight

lets face it, which ever platform you buy to modify to race your going to spend more than the purchase price of the car on mods in the end over the years so ive always said make sure you get what you want and dont compromise on the platform choice as the last thing you want is to want to upgrade to a gtr or something in 2 years after forking out 10-15k in mods on a S14 or whatever. Start with what you want and it might take longer to get where you want it but it will be exactly what you want as a total package.

So basically that means gtr :P gives you the option of 2wd or 4wd (for when you make more power after the rebuild :) ), better aftermarket support overall, better resale value in the future, more potential, etc

Thats my 2c worth :)

i reckon you can get an s14/s15 going quicker then most GTR's, there is quiet a large improvement in times ATM in these cars and it's only starting to scratch the surface.

The one thing quicker would be an EVO but that just sucks.

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...