Jump to content
SAU Community

Freshening up appearance of coilpack cover.

JimX

By JimX,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing some sort of spraypaint is in order. But considering the under-bonnet temperatures, should I be looking for any particular type? Also, what can I do about the "NISSAN" logo? It looks pretty old as well. Can you buy new logos to stick on, or should I just paint over the whole lot?

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I was gonna write up a guide in maintenance but never got around to it, but i did mine a couple of weeks ago.

To be honest, I'm not sure about the high temp stuff for that. I thought about it, felt it after a good run (can touch it, so its not over 100degrees). Its plastic, therefore I don't think it holds in as much heat as the metal engine components.

Anyhow, its not a gazillian degrees in there, so just used normal can stuff ($2.50 a can) because i couldn't find the high temp in gold. One can of standard primer, and one can of the gold. I used a stack of coats (a whole can, lol) which may also aid in heat protection. For my intercooler piping i *did* use high temp as that seemed much hotter than the plastic cover.

You prolly seen mine in my sig for a while.. came up well in the end...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1

still looks exactly as good as that now, with no signs of bubbling, cracking, etc. But will see how well it holds up into the future.

Not sure about the sticker.. mine was still in good condition so I just masked over it, then used a stanley knife to cut to shape (see below photo). I think if you went over it, it wouldn't look as good

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

If they make the high-temp stuff in your desired colour you should go with that. The difference in the paint is elasticity which gives it the ability to flex as hot components expand and contract.

This cracks ordinary paint after a while.

Are you sure your logo is stuffed? Try buffing it with some brasso to remove surface scratches and ingrained dirt.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ta for the info guys.

No I'm not sure my logo is stuffed, but I think it had a few chunks of paint out. I'll have to take another look to be sure.

Also I have heard that some people polish the cam covers and sell them with exchange of your old ones for a reasonable price. Does anyone know anyone that does this and how much it costs? Is this something you can do yourself? I've got a drill which I think takes a polishing attachment. What exactly would I use to polish it?

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this will be an issue, but do you think the paint might help keep the heat inside where the coilpacks are?

I think it should be OK as long as you don't use the heat reflective stuff maybe ??

The last thing you want is to trap the heat in the coilpacks cause it will eventually stuff them up :(

J

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

Hi.

I did mine when I had the R32.

If you are going to spray anything in the engine bay, make sure you use ENGINE ENAMEL. Otherwise the paint will eventually peel off and look crap.

I polished the rocker covers when I had it.

Took a good 4 hours (all up) and a sore arm.

You MUST take them out of the car to do a decent job.

to do mine, I sanded it back to bare metal then went lighter and lighter with the sand paper down to about 1400 grade sandpaper with oil as lubricant.

then I polished it up with AUTOSOL metal polish until I could see my face in it..

A few pics can be seen at.....

http://www.pbase.com/image/22963789

http://www.pbase.com/image/22963790

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      r34's love to squeal

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And make sure the belts are tightened appropriately too.
    • MBS206
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By MBS206 · Posted

      They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...