Jump to content
SAU Community

Disconnect this sensor and gain POWER!

turbomad

By turbomad,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

turbomad Community Regular

turbomad

Posted
Posted

A mate took his R33 to Dyson Rotary to have a power run done on the Dyno, everything is stock except the exhaust and an EBC(11psi), as you can imagine the power curve was up and down all over the place, for the next run they disconnected a sensor and did another run and suddenly the power curve was alot better and a good 10kw above the previous one everywhere! When he asked what that sensor was all he said was "it's a trade secret". The sensor he unplugged was the one above and to the right of the temp sensor, that goes into the head. Does anyone know what this sensor does and is it safe to drive around with it unplugged?

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

No idea what the sensor is but it'd be intersting to see if it'll start and drive when cold, also whether the car pings like a bitch when the temperature gets high. On the dyno you atleast have the confidence that they are monitoring for ping.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

I just had a quick look under the hood.

On the radiator hose mount there are two plugs (sensors), is it one of these? Or is it the plug that is righ next to the radiator hose housing that connects to a big (3 inches long) hexaginal nut thing that bolts into the head ?

J

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted
sounds like the wire from the variable valve timing

Now that makes sense. I have a mate who has done an s14 sr conversion into an s13 running s13 computer.

He installed a switch to control the vvt and it makes a massive difference. When he was tuning the car on the dyno there was an easy 20kw difference in the midrange but it tapered off at the top end. There was a definate difference at the top end when it was on/off though i cant remember the figure.

turbomad Community Regular

turbomad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

JAY95R33 that's it, the 3 inch long hex shape thing that goes into the head. I'm not sure if it controls the VVT as I thought that was the one on the end of the camshaft but maybe it's all related as BHDave said by switching it on and off it made a difference on the dyno, ask your mate whether he attached the switch to this or not? It's definately not the knock sensor because I believe that is on the block not the head.

Cecam Enthusiast

Cecam

Posted
Posted

I have a friend who unplugged his VCT while on the dyno, I think the results were less lower end torque and higher top end. I can't find the scan of the printout, but they're quite a different power/torque curves.... As the VCT turns off at 5500rpm not sure why it would make more top end power thou. Perhaps revs more freely not sure. I've unplugged mine before and it was smoother the lower torque at low revs was fairly noticable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Watermouse
      Chris' R34 GTT Series 2

      By Watermouse · Posted

    • Lithium
      Garrett G Series

      By Lithium · Posted

      Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
×
×
  • Create New...