Mv Automatics Shift Kit

[boost_bus180]

k well a lil while ago I installed a stage 2 shift kit from MV automatics and was shocked to learn that although there are stacks of topics on this site regarding the shift kits, noone has made a how-to guide to help those who are keen to do it but a bit nervous about doing it themselves without a step by step install guide. Unfortunately a lot of photos from the end of the install and vids of tensting it's performance decided to delete themselves but Ive got enough to get the points across and hopefully help you out a bit.

tools needed:

basic socket set

jack

4 x jack stands

hammer

oil drain pan

funnel to refill with fluid

lots of rags

Kit includes:

shift kitted valve body

transmission filter

2 x 50mm welsh plugs

sump pan gasket

4 x bottles of tansmax z fluid

step 1: Jack the car up enough to comfortably crawl underneath. Its important to have the front and rear at the same height off the ground so you can make sure u get the right fluid level.

step 2: Remove the drain plug allowing the oil in the sump pan to drain out while undoing all the bolts around the outside that hold the pan on.

Because I have a 3" exhaust it was necessary to either remove the front pipe or remove the cross member in order to allow enough space to get a socket on a few of the bolts. in my case it was easier to remove the cross member and use a jack stand to support the transmission. Be careful not to remove all the bolts at once, leave 2 or 3 in (though loosened) at the front corners to allow more fluid to drain out the rear. Once you've got the majority of oil drained, remove the remaining bolts and remove the pan.

This is how it will now look

Step 3: undo wiring plugs which will almost certainly break and remove the filter.

Step 4: Remove all bolts securing the valve body to the transmission and remove it. Be aware once this is removed, 3 large springs will fall out and probably land on your face so be ready for that.

to make it easier for installing the shift kitted valve body, I used a strip of foam to mark where all the bolts I removed go. a sheet of cardboard would work equally as good too.

Step 5: From here, you need to unbolt the solanoids from the stock valve body and bolt them onto the new shift kitted valve body and reposition only 1 of the springs on top of the cam it was originally on. The other 2 springs can go in the bin

step 6: because you have binned the other 2 springs, you can now insert the 2 x 50mm welsh plugs into their holes. the best way to do this is to use a socket the same size as the outer diameter of the plug and gently tap in with a hammer. you MUST NOT use a socket that fits inside the plug, this will distort the shape and prevent a perfect seal. It is possible to insert the welsh plugs with only a hammer but you'll have to be patient with it, not the easiest thing to do.

Step 7: raise the shift kitted valve body into place taking care to insert the spring correctly and to reconnect the wiring. refit all the bolts which you removed and fit the new filter. Now as all the electrical plugs broke when I undid them, I used locwire to secure them in place and to ensure they dont come undone.

Step 8: properly clean the sump pan to remove any gunk and make sure you completely remove the old gasket. refit the sump pan with the new gasket and the cross member or exhaust (depending on which you had to remove)

Step 9: refill the auto with fluid. now this part I dont have pics of and Im not sure if the way I did it is the most efficient DIY way (someone feel free to provide a better technique) I used a funnel and hose attached to the dipstick to fill the auto with oil. once it took a fair bit, I removed the pressure line from the trans cooler and pointed it into a clear bucket. I then started the car up so the auto pumped out the old fluid and circulated the new fluid. I could only run the car for a few seconds before having to stop and refill it. this process was completed several times until roughly 15litres of new fluid was poured in and 15 litres (total including what was drained previously) of waste oil was pumped out. using a clear container made it easy to tell when the old oil stop coming and the new oil started coming out. Once I felt it was pretty much done, I connected the trans cooler hose back up and let the car run for a few minutes while I cycled through all gears to ensure everything worked properly and nothing leaked. Once happy with that, I checked the oil level and topped it up as neccessary.

Step 10: From here I took the car off the jack stands and took it for a test drive. I started off slow to allow enough time to bring the system to operating temperature and to ensure everything worked properly and didnt leak. Once confident with it, I tried some full throttle shifts and some down shifts. To my delight everything worked as planned. Content with its operation, I returned to the garage and again inspected for leaks and check the oil level and adjusted it slightly.

From go to woah it took a couple of hours but I wasnt in a rush and had plenty of distractions like pizza haha. Shouldnt take any more than 3-4 hours for someone thats pretty handy with tools and doesnt have a hoist.

End evaluation? Man I wish I did this sooner! it is without a doubt the best bang for buck mod I have done so far and has completely transformed the driving experience from shit to something decent. It now accelerates quicker, upshifts and downshifts a lot quuicker and flaring is now a thing of the past. Do it, you wont be disappointed.

Edited September 15, 2010 by boost_bus180

[JAV360]

Nice write up mate.

How much did the whole thing cost you?

And what trans fluid did you use?

[boost_bus180]

Nice write up mate.

How much did the whole thing cost you?

And what trans fluid did you use?

shift kit was around $500, fluid was castrol transmax z and was around $300 for 16litres

[STATUS]

agreed best mod for the r34 and stageas for sure. We do change over autos with MV as the last few have been over 300rwkw autos.

Killer setup, MV FTW

ps how are you Kurtis?

[bubba]

Nice work.

Even just doing the 2x Welsh plugs makes a world of difference, that's all I've done to mine so it's not fully sik hektic chirping but improved the drivability of the car tremendously, best bang for buck mod to these auto busses.

Edited September 15, 2010 by bubba

[bentwagon]

Or if your like me you can drive 5 minutes up the road and get them to do it.

[910trx]

can the car still be driven in a dosile manner?

ie if my mrs drove it as the daily it has become it wont be harmed through urgent shifts or create a rough ride?

i really like this idea to try and take some slack out of the trans, but it must also leave some comfort and be nice to drive in peakhour etc.

is this the mod for me?

[chook]

for my MV kit, just a slight kick from 1st to 2nd and back down again, slightly more uncomforatable than stock in slow traffic, good for high throttle, kicks harder when on low/no throttle. 2 to 3 to 4 is tight but not noticable. exactly how it should be from factory.

[boost_bus180]

agreed best mod for the r34 and stageas for sure. We do change over autos with MV as the last few have been over 300rwkw autos.

Killer setup, MV FTW

ps how are you Kurtis?

hey Trent yeah been really good. Still living in Bris, let me know if you're ever up this way should catch up. Congratulations on the wedding too

can the car still be driven in a dosile manner?

ie if my mrs drove it as the daily it has become it wont be harmed through urgent shifts or create a rough ride?

i really like this idea to try and take some slack out of the trans, but it must also leave some comfort and be nice to drive in peakhour etc.

is this the mod for me?

honestly mate on really light throttle the shift between 1st and 2nd is a bit harsher than standard but nothing over the top. all other shifts are not noticeably harsher while just putting round. its easily barable