R32 Gts4 - Restoration/rebuild

[Chris Rogers]

tis ok. when you get to it

I'm in hte midst of mocking up oil coolers. I found something off a mitsi 4wd that will suit my oil cooling application quite well. it has banjo fittings decent solid mounts and its cheap to obtain. for the diff coolers I need 3 PS coolers off a R33. (the one I do have is destined for the P'Steering as it sits nicely in the stock spot and the mounting holes line up.)

a few questions I do have for someone though..

what sort of pressure is on the oil lines normally (in PSI)?

what size line (steel) should I be using for this - I was thinking 5/16 ->3/8 myself . I have a small pipe bender and I was going to get enzed to do the banjo fittings.

where is the oil temp sensor on an RB26 - sump?

[Chris Rogers]

Ok new inner guard liners arrived today. at $130 each they wern't exactly cheap but given I'm rebuilding this car they will last a while.

only gripe I have is the FAST listing shows them as having a vent in the rear area and these do not have it. I will find a way to neatly do it as I need breathing space for the oil coolers in that area.

talking to nissan today they are telling me that my new sill panels should be in stockin a few days. not a bad turnaround I figure considering they probably had to make them up frm scratch.

I have started cutting the glass out of this car. the guys that do this for a living certainly earn their money. getting the front one out intact is a bitch! think I'll save a bit more money up and get the sides/rear done professionally.

I'll provide a parts listing of the two inner guards in the morning (bear in mind these are GTR items.) once I get back to the shop.

[XRATED]

what sort of pressure is on the oil lines normally (in PSI)?

I normaly use pushlock hose for oil coolers... rated at 250-350psi working pressure depending on the brand of hose.

Why diff coolers? It'd be a shame to re-build the car to new only to track hack it...

Cheers

Justin

[Chris Rogers]

thanks for that. spoke to a mechanic mate of mine this morn about it. reckons 3/8 steel tube is the go for this and then use the appropriate line on either end. I'll toss push lock hose into google though that sounds like what I need.

in regard to diff coolers :

not a track hack thing. I figure if everything is cool it will last longer. learned that years ago with a rather warm small block chev. I'm fabbing steel lines up for all of this and I'm trying to make it as 'factory' as possible. two coolers under the tail (as per a Oz spec GTR ) and one in the nose.

my subaru wagon has 3 coolers on it and since doing it I have not had a problem with oil or trans temps (it's auto.) the third is PS. thought if it worked well on two prior cars it will work on this one as well.

[DR 32R]

Nice work Chris! Looking at your wheel posts, what tyre foot print are you aiming for? My 205s look tight at the moment!

[Chris Rogers]

I'll have to see what was under it originally. they had it staggered for some reason. I'm going same size for ease of tyre fitting.

[DR 32R]

I'll have to see what was under it originally. they had it staggered for some reason. I'm going same size for ease of tyre fitting.

My reading is that ATESSA requires same diameter front and rear, quite sensitive to staggered fitments.

[Chris Rogers]

same as a subaru. get the sizes wrong and something breaks on one of those.

[dougs]

I'll have to see what was under it originally. they had it staggered for some reason. I'm going same size for ease of tyre fitting.

225/60/16's. I've got stock rims and had to do tyres not too long ago on my gts4. pretty sure i read that straight from the Japanese tire place card in the door jam too. Which reminds me, i still haven't gotten round to coming up to say hi yet either.

[Chris Rogers]

that gives me a size to work from I'm going 17" so I THINK this will put me on a 55 or 50 tyre. - ta!

[dougs]

i've got a scan of a brochure for the r32 v-spec and v-spec 2. it says v-spec had 225/50/17's and the v-spec 2 had 245/45/17's and i'm pretty sure the stock gtr rims were 225/60/16's as well so that should give you two sizes that work in a 17"rim without having to change anything else

[Chris Rogers]

post it up when you get a second.

[DR 32R]

Mine has a tyre placard showing the 225/60/16 as an option vs 15s, my 205/15s look tight already!

[Chris Rogers]

nothing on mine. I'm going to see IF I can get the jap sticker for it. 16" was standard for a GTST from what I can see and since this thing is a mix of GTR/GTST it would make sense that 16 is the correct size. brakes are forcing me to a 17" though.

[DR 32R]

Sorry that was 225/50/16 or 205/55/15 on my placard. I have 205/55/15 on the car atm. Are you going with 225 max width or wider or narrower? My goal is more than 280 all wheel kw, so I'm aiming for 235 width even if I have to roll or flare the guards. I'm planing to flare rear and roll front on my very narrow r32 gts4. Like you, I've been looking at stock r33 gtr, bbs, Simmons wheels, and aftermarket wheels. I want to sort the wheels, guard rolling or flaring prior to a repaint.

[dougs]

sorry chris just realised i put the wrong size up lol. they are 225/50/16's on mine. placard says 205/55/16's as standard. i took a pic of it for you as well.

[DR 32R]

Thanks for that. Can help with translation if needed!

[Chris Rogers]

see what the VSpec 1 has to say. I can see different tyre sizes on there and a few minor differences but thats it.

[Chris Rogers]

ok bit of progress (and a welcome phone call.)

front glass is OUT! I'm cleaning the channel back to metal so I can strip/sand/rust treat it.

phone call was from a mate of mine in osaka. he's got the chance to grab a 99 stagea (S1 non neo) RB25DET car before it goes to scrap. told him to try and gt it. if he's successful I'll have the RB25 driveline I need.

its a bit out of sync but the engine will sit here and get turned weekly until I'm ready for it.

[Chris Rogers]

ok I'm covered in dirt/rust/crap. windscreen channel is clean. found something interesting as well.

seems if you do not clean and prep the channel properly you get rust. (no surprise..) so after peeling 3 layers of rubber sealant out on the passenger A pillar I find a nice layer of surface rust under all of it. starts at the top corner and runs the full length of the pillar.

looking at it I figure of the 3 screens that this car has had one of them was done in a hurry. either way I'm going to hit that with a dose of acid and then rust converter then etch primer. that will stop it reforming I figure.

I'll pop pics of the area up in a bit.