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Neil's R33 Gts-t Build


Neil

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what year TT are you aiming for Neil?

i was originally aiming for 2012, but now thinking its more realistic in 2013 it really depends what happens at work at the begining of next year.

how far are you going with the stipping? all the aircon and fans and heater? or will you be leaving some of that stuff. I'm still undecided, as a few of those items can be really helpful in those raining/foggy situations.

2012 is the plan mate. What worries me is rule changes,,,so my thinking is to get it done sooner than later.

All the air con will be gone before Brad gets in there with his tubes and welder but I will be leaving the heater in it. After last weekend with Duncan at E/C and Mark last year at TT theres no way you can not run something. Snowman has a heated front screen,,,while that would be nice,,,try finding one for an R33.

Cheers

Neil.

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Welcome to the current group of guys in NSW who are building track orientated R33 GTS-Ts.

Mine unfortunately is a two stage process:

Stage 1 - involves getting it back into one piece and registered as it is a repairable write off. Just some minor repairs like all new sheet metal in front of the windscreen, full respray apart from the roof, full conversion from Series 1.5 to Series II inside and out.

Stage 2 - now the fun starts with mods similar to yours but keeping the ability to be street registered (bolt in front half of the cage).

In the suspension space I am going down the path of standard arms in the front but with the adjustable bushes to obtain the required level of adjustment. In the rear I have a full GTR cradle to go in.

For shocks and springs I have a set of Bilstein PSS9's from a R33 GTR (hence the need for the GTR rear cradle) and after talking to Brad will be fabricating some alloy spacers for the front shocks to allow for the difference in overall length between GTR's and GTS-T's.

This brings me to my current problem of spring rates and I am curious regarding the springs that you have purchased for your car. I was thinking of going with 7 kg fronts and either 4 or 5 kg rears both with helper springs.

What are you other guys also running in the spring / shock area?

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Welcome to the current group of guys in NSW who are building track orientated R33 GTS-Ts.

Mine unfortunately is a two stage process:

Stage 1 - involves getting it back into one piece and registered as it is a repairable write off. Just some minor repairs like all new sheet metal in front of the windscreen, full respray apart from the roof, full conversion from Series 1.5 to Series II inside and out.

Stage 2 - now the fun starts with mods similar to yours but keeping the ability to be street registered (bolt in front half of the cage).

In the suspension space I am going down the path of standard arms in the front but with the adjustable bushes to obtain the required level of adjustment. In the rear I have a full GTR cradle to go in.

For shocks and springs I have a set of Bilstein PSS9's from a R33 GTR (hence the need for the GTR rear cradle) and after talking to Brad will be fabricating some alloy spacers for the front shocks to allow for the difference in overall length between GTR's and GTS-T's.

This brings me to my current problem of spring rates and I am curious regarding the springs that you have purchased for your car. I was thinking of going with 7 kg fronts and either 4 or 5 kg rears both with helper springs.

What are you other guys also running in the spring / shock area?

It's great to see other guy's converting there 2wd cars to race spec.

Personally I would like to see the mods and admins move ALL NISSAN RACE CAR conversions out of here and let us post in the motorsport section. While there are some cool builds happening in here,,, I don't think this is the appropriate section. It's easy,,,cage it and it's in the motorsport section,,,No cage and it stays in here.

How did the thread get to stay in the motorsport section

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ld-t334929.html

Charles,,,your road is much harder than mine and good luck with yours. (bolt in front half of the cage). That doesn't sound right,,,(a) shouldn't that be "rear half of the cage? and (b) keeping the ability to be street registered. I thought any cages in NSW were illegal,,,or have I missed something?.

Spring rates,,,personally I don't think I want to spill my guts on that one. I get asked about Duncans GTR rates and I always point to him "Don't ask me,,,ask him".

There was a reason for my slightly blurrey pics showing no numbers,,,and yes I turned the springs around anyway. I did my homework,,,as did my shock builder,,,lots of questions and lots of answers and lots of money.. Spring rates depend on human body weight,,,car weight,,,type of racing ect. I will have to purchase some more springs in the future though.

Time to get off my lazy bum and start stripping the interior.

Cheers

Neil.

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Also agree, but Neil what are you doing it's only 8:40pm and you have a car to pull apart.

4 weeks you reckon, my shop is currently overflowing, ol mate pete's car to finish, an rb26-s13 conversion and moly cage, 180sx wide body/cage, r32 GTR Molly subframes and suspension revamp/cage and my r34,r32, GTIR too.

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Also agree, but Neil what are you doing it's only 8:40pm and you have a car to pull apart.

4 weeks you reckon, my shop is currently overflowing, ol mate pete's car to finish, an rb26-s13 conversion and moly cage, 180sx wide body/cage, r32 GTR Molly subframes and suspension revamp/cage and my r34,r32, GTIR too.

yes my car come first

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Charles,,,your road is much harder than mine and good luck with yours. (bolt in front half of the cage). That doesn't sound right,,,(a) shouldn't that be "rear half of the cage? and (b) keeping the ability to be street registered. I thought any cages in NSW were illegal,,,or have I missed something?.

Spring rates,,,personally I don't think I want to spill my guts on that one. I get asked about Duncans GTR rates and I always point to him "Don't ask me,,,ask him".

There was a reason for my slightly blurrey pics showing no numbers,,,and yes I turned the springs around anyway. I did my homework,,,as did my shock builder,,,lots of questions and lots of answers and lots of money.. Spring rates depend on human body weight,,,car weight,,,type of racing ect. I will have to purchase some more springs in the future though.

Neil - you take things too seriously it is not like I am going to be any competition for you.

I have had some good discussions with Brad on a cage design that involves welding the usual mounting plates into the car but with the addition of captive nuts to bolt the bar work to. The main loop and rear legs are legal if you change the registration to a two seater. The bolt in design allows the front bar leg and door braces to be removed for registration purposes.

Looks like I am just going to have to add an few more springs to my current collection of 3-4 kg progressive, 4 kg, 4-5 kg progressive, 5 kg, 7 kg, 8 kg and 12 kg until I come up with something that suites what I am attempting to achieve and actually works.

I should not bring up the question of rims then as I am some what of a wheel whore....... :P

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Charles,,,I'm more than happy to pm you my rates mate. I just don't want to post them in a public forum.

Got a bit of work done this weekend,,,removed basically all the rear half of the interior. It's one thing to just go hell for leather and rip everything out,,,I took my time and tried not to break anything. Nissan are funny bastards,,,they screw the centre interior lamp in and clip the front one in,,,had me baffled for ages. The other this is where the hell to store all of it. I'm sort of planning to put as must interior back in the car as possible,,,how successful that is remains to be seen. You do have to give Nissan credit though,,,these cars are by far the best to pull apart,,,I didn't even break one clip,,,If you were doing this to most other brands you would be breaking trims/clips ect. Nice work Nissan.

After fitting a Trust intercooler kit many years ago I've always suffered high water temps on track days,,,nothing stupid,,,but it was a pain. So an ebay search came up with this,,, $199.00 chinese 50mm core radiator and stuff me with a little work it fits.. It will not be staying,,,but will be a good mule as I will cross-flow it and if alls good I'll get a quality one made. It will be interesting to see if a bit of welding and moving the bottom hose will work. Removing the air cond condenser and fan would proberly fix it anyway,,,but I want to get to the stage where temps are controllable over extended periods.

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This pic shows the windscreen washer bottle that came with the intercooler kit,,,it's actually off a Suzuki rav4. I have moved it into the boot,,,quick switcho of the hoses and some wiring to be done. It came with a blanking plug for one of the pumps which I have to find.

post-29-1288599925_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

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Sometimes I do the stupidest things. Last night I thought I would start removing the air con stuff out from under the bonnet,,,now while I thought I had removed all the gas I was very mistaken. I removed the top dryer bolt and I thought it was stuck so I pulled on it,,,dump bastard,,,pag oil and gas went everywhere and I mean everywhere,,,coating my bloody head,,,the bonnet,,,dripping off the garage roof,,, the floor and the engine bay. I laughted at my self for ages. Took a very lengthy shower before I stopped smelling like shit.

Cheers

Neil.

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Hard day in the office today. I've bought a carbon fibre boot lid,,,so we had to remove the spoiler from the lid,,,sounds easy,,, NOT. While the spoiler has 4 nuts holding it on ,,,the 3 clips either side turned out to be bloody hard to remove. Job done eventually with nothing broken. The gas struts while they were a lttle hard to remove from the boot lid were almost impossible to remove at the hinges,,,but Duncan removed them in the end. Nice work champion.

We removed my beaver panel trim,,,the normal painted Series 2 one,,,my car has the factory illuminated one of which the "E" doesn't work,,,so it's off with Duncan to see if he can fix it,,,I had a go years ago and gave up. Hope it can fix it.

R33's are much harder to strip then our usual staple diet of R32's. Luxury plus in my girl,,,tons of floor and heat insulation which will take a ton of dry ice. I finally remove the carpet at 5.30 this arvo.

The dash came out easily,,,but the wiring was very hard. Lots of peeps over the years have added stuff,,,mine included,,, so Duncan had to wade through it all. We had to remove all the cruise control,,,,my Shift light,,,some strange box with some crazy wiring and tons more. In the end Cheryl still starts and I moved her into the garage which was the plan.

Tons more happened today,,,doors removed and now reside in our bedroom.

Cheers

Neil.

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Cool

Ha Ha that was a bit funny,,,cause I'm a mod in here I can edit my posts so I thought I would just keep going with that post. Won't do that again. Yes doors are in our bedroom and I have stuff everywhere,,,including the radicals trailer.

Ryan actually I need to talk to you about removing all the rear hycas stuff and what you did mate. pm me your mobile please as I have lost it. I have bought a rear lock out bar,,,but I need to get rid of the control unit,,all it's wiring but not lose my power steering. I beleive I can do it by keeping power to one of the wires to the front rack,,,effectively keeping the valve open but just need to know which one just to make sure.

Last Saturday we took a little trip to that great supplier called Just Jap:-

Address: 101-103 Bath Road Kirrawee NSW Australia 2232

Phone: (02) 95450532 (6 Lines) Fax: (02) 95421684

Free Plug boys!!!,,,.

Bought some cool goodies:-

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post-29-1289296291_thumb.jpg

post-29-1289296360_thumb.jpg

post-29-1289296510_thumb.jpg

post-29-1289296565_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Neil, Duncan and I were discussing how no one knows what "That brown box is" in the engine bay up near the windscreen wiper motor... Well I found out it's for your windscreen wipers. It's an "Amplifier" for them. NFI how it works or what it amplifies.

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