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Neil's R33 Gts-t Build


Neil

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Over the last 10 years I would have had 20 front strut braces on my R33's.

They have been from Jap and Aus aftermarket companies, fancy alloy ones to carbon fibre ones to steal ones plus a range of factory Nissan ones.

It all comes down to what are you trying to achieve:

  • if you want looks then go for the alloy or carbon fibre ones as they dress up the engine bay but offer questionable strength
  • If you want performance go for a R34 GTT for standard manifolds of a R33 or R34 GTR if you have a forward facing manifold - they may not look trick but they work and do not bend and flex
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Charles I bought a R33 GTR brace off one of those idiots that think my strut towers are bent. It has a few scratches on it so it will get powdercoated as well.

After Bathurst it was time to fit my new door trims properly,,,so off came the left one and I thought why not get some weight out of the door 1st.

So after some very careful grinding with this excellent Medalist 1/4 inch die grinder I removed most of the intrusion bar. The pressed brackets are still mostly there but I'd had a few beers and called it quits before I f**kked the door skin.

Just as a side note,,,I was going to buy the disc arbor from bunnings but it was 20 bucks,,so with my little lathe I made my own,,left hand thread and all and it workes a treat.

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After reading lots of bullshit on the interweb about how much a R33 intrusion bar actually weighs,,,heres the truth,,,no not 10 kilo's a side,,,I still have maybe 200grams left to cut out.

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I was thinking about removing the central locking but the actuator and wiring weigh 100 grams,,,so I'll leave it.

I'd love to work out a way of converting the electric windows to manual,,, but so far no luck. I might have to buy a regulator and somehow weld a spline onto the reg for a handle. Thats a job for later though.

Cheers

Neil.

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Can you fit a window strap like the old cars had, I think the MG or porka had some.

I think from memory the difference between electric and manual is minimal due to the extra weight of the winder mechanism, well that was the case for the Mazda anyway.

Rock and roll

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Can you fit a window strap like the old cars had, I think the MG or porka had some.

I think from memory the difference between electric and manual is minimal due to the extra weight of the winder mechanism, well that was the case for the Mazda anyway.

Rock and roll

Hey Mark,,,great to see you still hanging around. I'm not understanding the "Can you fit a window strap like the old cars had, I think the MG or porka had some". I've been scratching my ancient old head and you have me stuffed.

I don't have a spare window motor to weigh but I did look at the specs of an older BMW today and they weigh 800 grams each,,,so with a lot of work I might lose about 1 to 1.4 kilo's all up.

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Nice work Neil...

Might have to steal your door trims and compare to the 34 door to see if they are similar ;)

Yea no probs tiger,,,when ever we meet again.

Cheers

Neil.

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GOOGLE " Project no-flight update ", its update 2007

It was a 65 Corvette

I believe others had them as standard, back when Jebus wore shorts, EDIT: Model T Ford did

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Those door trims look a treat and are exactly what I'm after for my r33. How much were they?

I gotta tell you that I'm very very happy with them,,,for a race car they are perfect as they clear the roll cage intrusion bars beautifully. Michael did a great job. I attempted 3 times at making my own and I made crap. That all said they are not show car perfect but I never expected them to be. They cost me $430 excluding freight.

Cheers

Neil.

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GOOGLE " Project no-flight update ", its update 2007

It was a 65 Corvette

I believe others had them as standard, back when Jebus wore shorts, EDIT: Model T Ford did

So you pull the strap to get the window down and I presume you push it back up to close the window. How quaint. Nice idea mate but butt ugly.

Cheers anyway

Neil.

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4th july you want come out and play

Thought I knew that date from somewhere,,,Thats Independence day for the Yanks!!!.

Whats on tiger,,,if it's just a track day then no as it's only 2 weeks before the Tamworth round which I should do well at.If it's one of those tarmac thingies you've been doing then yes I would risk the car (I have a navigator lined up). Ten rounds of the NSW hillclimb champs is a budget and time sucking series. Throw in the Aussie nats in WA and I'll be broke.

Cheers

Neil.

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Awesome... Did you say you got hassled for no door trims at the track?

[/quote

The class I'm running in at state hillclimbs requires as much of the interior that is possible and door trims are possible. Besides it's a little dangerous not having anything.

Cheers

Neil

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Charles I bought a R33 GTR brace off one of those idiots that think my strut towers are bent. It has a few scratches on it so it will get powdercoated as well.

After Bathurst it was time to fit my new door trims properly,,,so off came the left one and I thought why not get some weight out of the door 1st.

So after some very careful grinding with this excellent Medalist 1/4 inch die grinder I removed most of the intrusion bar. The pressed brackets are still mostly there but I'd had a few beers and called it quits before I f**kked the door skin.

Just as a side note,,,I was going to buy the disc arbor from bunnings but it was 20 bucks,,so with my little lathe I made my own,,left hand thread and all and it workes a treat.

I was thinking about removing the central locking but the actuator and wiring weigh 100 grams,,,so I'll leave it.

I'd love to work out a way of converting the electric windows to manual,,, but so far no luck. I might have to buy a regulator and somehow weld a spline onto the reg for a handle. Thats a job for later though.

Cheers

Neil.

Not keen on replacing the glass with polycarbonate?

I've been considering it for my track car... I've bent up some molly rod, plan is to weld the rod to the door, hang tabs from the rod to secure the polycarbonate to with isolators. Install a pre-fabbed slide window.

Cheers

J.

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most of the weight is in the window mech itself?

if you want to retain glass and you just want your windows either up or down (not at all) what about fabbing up a runner to hold bottom of the glass, brackets to hold runner attached to door via bolts - so if you want the window in and up its there if you want it out its 4 bolts undone and the whole window unit comes out ? but i spsoe if you go that far mose well go lexan

save about 5- 7 kg per door ? (my window mechs in r32 4 door weighed 5kg each)

my lexan window frames but are bolted in still not welded - so if necessary still easy enough to remove but strong enough to hold everything together

Edited by bcozican
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I have told you over and over again big boy,,,keep an eye in your mirrors because I'm going to beat YOU.

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Cheers

Neil

I love that front bar. Is it much lower than the stock one? Because I'm trying to get my track cars front lower so I can do a similar setup with a front splitter.

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Okay I stuffed up,,,my door trims were $330.00 not $ 430.00,,,I must be getting old and losing my brains.

It took ages to remove the leftover rear section of the intrusion bar bracket and 200 grams it weighed,,,still have the front section to do,,,so that means total intrusion bar weight of 3 kilos' per side. Gotta do the drivers door next so 6 kilo's in total is a great weight saving.

I really really want to be able to wind the windows up and down so one way or another I'm going to stick with glass. Thanks for the ideas though boys,,,gotta love different peoples takes in getting the whole door situation lighter.

I have some doors coming so when I get some time I'll start playing with ways of flicking the motors.

Cheers

Neil.

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I love that front bar. Is it much lower than the stock one? Because I'm trying to get my track cars front lower so I can do a similar setup with a front splitter.

To be honest Wilson I'm not really sure,,,I had the m-spec front bar and lower factory lip on the car originally but I smashed the shit out of it so I never got to compare the two. I think it is lower but not by much. This one is fibreglass which is much easier to repair slight damage so thats a bonus and is flat bottomed so fitting the splitter was a joy. Trouble is fibreglass doesn't bend so one liitle off and you will be repairing mounting holes of which I've had to do 3 times.

Cheers

Neil.

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