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hey guys im looking at different options for my vl with a rb25. i was thinking of getting custom made intercooler piping

however if i was to get a rb25 kit and modify pieces of it what would you guys think i would have to mod or would i be better with a vl turbo kit

I bought a RB25 intercooler kit and fitted it upto my HR31 with a RB25. A few extra silicon hoses and it fits, i turned my cooler upside down so the tanks were at the top and it works fine. I didn't cut any holes or do anything to the body of the car, my pipes went between the headlights. Might be different for a VL though.

we just about Build your CAR JOEL,

do you need NEW post every time.

haha you almost have haha i jsut keep running into problems as i go along but much appreciated of everyones help i have got so much more done in the last 2 months than i did in 2 years of it being off the road

and ads i will try that its mainly the comp housing thats the diff between vl turbo and rb25 and i think the rb25 will work the best just may need extendin in some areas to accomodate for the larger engine bay.

My intercooler piping is off a vl so I'd say it will work

vl turbo kit or rb25 kit?

and ads thanks again considering i have a little bit more room in my engine bay it should be a little bit easier haha

The piping kit should work on different coolers as long as the inlet/outlet on the intercooler is in the same spot on both. My GK Tech cooler has 3" inlet and outlet at the bottom on each side FYI

The piping kit should work on different coolers as long as the inlet/outlet on the intercooler is in the same spot on both. My GK Tech cooler has 3" inlet and outlet at the bottom on each side FYI

yeah but the gktech cooler is smaller so the piping is suited to that however i found a piping kit with the same set up on the for a larger cooler

Looking at a stock engine bay on a VL turbo, I would personally tackle the job by means of an off the shelf VL cooler kit along with the addition of some cleverly positioned silicon joiners.

It appears just about everything is in the right spot, just needing to extend or reposition a couple of sections to suit the difference in motor/intake design and the same for the turbo (comp housing as stated and position).

Was a decent question IMO, simple resolve too. Best of luck.

hey guyys got a vl turbo intercooler piping kit yesterday most of it fits up well oulet from cooler to throttle body connects up fine with one cut to make it fit the standard crossover pipe however to compressor housing is a diffrent story. i have 2 ways of doing cutting a hole just above the chassis rail sideways or cutting a hole where the airbox used to be and buy a 90 degree joiner and a straight piece of piping. only prob is cutting hole sideways above chassis rail if i was to do that the power sterring lines get in the way so i may go with the hole where airbox was. ill keep posting how im going.

going to be a few days however due to christmas and damn missus wants to go out

hey guys ran into another problem the vac line from actuator needs somehre to go i have read you can t piece it off BOV however i removed my carbon canister and put a screw in the line on the manifold next to the throttle body (not the one on throttle body) would this be a good place to put it or would it onl be a vac line not boost also?

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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