Jump to content
SAU Community

[Act] Fs: Mint Caparison Angelus Hgs Pro Black Gsm $1500 Ono


sl33py
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls, I've gotta sell one of my electric guitars to make way for other financial commitments. I suspected this might happen in advance, therefore it's had very little play (to keep it in mint condition). It's a Caparison Angelus, all I've done is chuck some slightly heavier gauge strings on (11.5 16 26 36 46 60). The strings they put on it when they ship are ridiculously light for something meant to tune to B standard. (It holds any tuning just fine if you use the appropriate strings).

It comes in the standard Caparison hard case. I'm in the ACT but would be willing to ship within Australia. Obviously a local sale would be preferable. If I have to ship it, I'll slack the strings off, and I still have the double box used to ship it to me from Japan originally, so it'll be packed insanely well.

I'm looking for $1500 Or Near Offer (which will include shipping within AU). I paid $2200 for it from a shop a coupla months ago, so bare this in mind if you like to 'haggle'.

These are the same guitars used by the Swedish metal band Soilwork (my heroes!). It's the same kind of model that Peter Wichers uses on the "Young Guitar" demonstrations (you can find this on youtube). All he did was chuck an EMG81 in it (but the stock pickups sound insanely beefy to me). I will be sorry to see this go :(

Here are the specs:

Body Material: Mahogany Back w/ Arched Maple Top

Neck Material: Hard Maple

Fretboard: Ebony

Neck Joint: Set Neck

Scale Length: 24.75"

No. Frets: 24

Headstock: Angelus

Headstock Angle: 15°

Machine Heads: Gotoh SG381-07 H.A.P.

Bridge: Gotoh GE103 B-T, Gotoh GE101 Z-T Tailpiece

Nut: Graph Tech Trem Nut

Hardware Color: Schaller-Black, Gotoh-Cosmo Black

Pickups: Neck - Caparison PH-F

Bridge - Caparison PH-R

Controls" Neck Pickup Volume(CTS), Bridge Pickup Volume(CTS), 3 Way Lever Switch

Case: Hard Case Included

Welcome anyone who wants to come and try it out.

Here are some pics:

gallery_20491_4046_70504.jpg

gallery_20491_4046_19378.jpg

gallery_20491_4046_72412.jpg

gallery_20491_4046_21147.jpg

gallery_20491_4046_27671.jpg

gallery_20491_4046_13176.jpg

gallery_20491_4046_32983.jpg

Feel free to ask any questions: you are MUCH better ringing, rather than sending a PM: 0404 896 713.

Ben.

Edited by sl33py
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe I used the wrong sandwich plate as well. Used one piece instead of two piece.  
    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
×
×
  • Create New...