Jump to content
SAU Community

HKS 3037 tuning results


Steve
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the biggest one I found was the PCV valve. I blocked that off. I also went over every vacuum line and ensured that they were all very tightly secured with either cable ties or clamps, at both ends - check thoroughly as there are many, many hoses. Then check all your cooler pipes.

If none of that works, get some CRC and spray it at all joins on the intake side, including where the plenum joins the head, throttle body to plenum etc. If you find a leak the engine revs will increase quite dramatically.

vacuum leaks are the most painful little buggers to find, good luck:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the biggest one I found was the PCV valve.  I blocked that off.  I also went over every vacuum line and ensured that they were all very tightly secured with either cable ties or clamps, at both ends - check thoroughly as there are many, many hoses.  Then check all your cooler pipes.

If none of that works, get some CRC and spray it at all joins on the intake side, including where the plenum joins the head, throttle body to plenum etc.  If you find a leak the engine revs will increase quite dramatically.

vacuum leaks are the most painful little buggers to find, good luck:)

The PCV valve is one thing i will be blocking off once i fit my GTR bov's. I guess not having any BOV's and running 1 bar with a GT30 hasent helped either :(

I am thinking of getting a hks eids idle stability controller things and seing if that helps at all if other checks reviel no problems.

Whats you bov spring tentioned to open up at (psi)? coz if my car is idling and i turn it off u cna hear the turbo still spinng for about 10 seconds after the car is off, which might also be cauing the afm problems

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My BOV doesnt lift until around 10-12lbs. My turbo spins forever when the car shuts down too.

PCV is very easy to block, just whack a self tapper in it. If you want to check it, just pull it out and blow through it, if air only passes one way, all is good. Quite often just pulling it out of the rocker cover and holding your finger over it whilst the car is idling will reveal if it is the problem, but either way, block it off - it is not your friend:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of power is OBEHAVE making?

That thing really smokes up when it hits second (Auto). Sounds awesome.

OBEHAVE's 10.9 128mph 1/4 run mpg over here - http://www.fullboost.com.au/vidzz/fullBOOS...3_12_obehve.avi

I wish i could remember the figure... but it's up around the 300's mark.

With a nice Auto in it. Thats what makes the car fast.

Reasonable stall...

And stronger bottom end etc, but i dont recall top end work, but it was a few months ago now :P

It's interesting that run as you can see there are still launching problems.

The car was plagued with them for months last year.

I was at calder a lot and they were running lots of 12's.

Something to do with getting it off the convertor.

But going by that vid, they still aint got it right, but getting better at least :aroused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wish i could remember the figure... but it's up around the 300's mark.

With a nice Auto in it. Thats what makes the car fast.

Reasonable stall...

And stronger bottom end etc, but i dont recall top end work, but it was a few months ago now :P

It's interesting that run as you can see there are still launching problems.

The car was plagued with them for months last year.

I was at calder a lot and they were running lots of 12's.

Something to do with getting it off the convertor.

But going by that vid, they still aint got it right, but getting better at least   :aroused:

That car was in zoom magazine 2 issues ago. Its got a Garrett 3540 and is making near 400rwkw on c16

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of power is OBEHAVE making?

That thing really smokes up when it hits second (Auto). Sounds awesome.

OBEHAVE's 10.9 128mph 1/4 run mpg over here - http://www.fullboost.com.au/vidzz/fullBOOS...3_12_obehve.avi

Watch it leave the black lines on the strip as it starts to pull hard and drift to the right.

Luv that zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz noise from the tyres, brings back memorys of my first car the burn out machine TE 250 Cortina. :P

386kw at the wheels?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That car was in zoom magazine 2 issues ago. Its got a Garrett 3540 and is making near 400rwkw on c16

well that confirms that it's still got issues then.

any car making that much power should be able to bed a much better time, especially auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
PCV is very easy to block,................block it off - it is not your friend:)

Hmmm, had the same problem myself withthe PCV, I cut it open, stretched the sring inside, and glued it back together, problem solved.

Can you tell me why it's not a friendly little thing to have around, as I'd be happy to get shot of it for a tidier appearance.

Can you also tell me a little bit more about the 3037 with the .61 a/r housing, what rpm did it boost at ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well all it does is allow oil vapours into the cylinders, its there to stop all the dolphins from going tits up, and the trees turning brown. If you fit a baffled catch can, you can remove all the crap from the crank case gasses before they do any harm to your engine or the dolphins.

3037 with 0.61 was just too savage, 1 bar at around 3000rpm, but it wasnt possible to safely drive the car with any more boost. It came on like a switch, even at 90-100kmh the back end would try and change lanes with light throttle, such as gentle accelleration.

0.87 is sooo much better, still has heaps down low, boost starts building under 3000rpm, with 1 bar around 3700ish rpm - but you can control the boost with the throttle, its not just on or off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its there to stop all the dolphins from going tits up, and the trees turning brown.
:)

Thanks Steve, It looks like I'll be going for the .87 A/R kit, a nice slow buildup to max boost with something usable below 3.5krpm is exactly what I'm after :)

Quick recap, your using a 1.6mm headgasket and stock bottom end ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
    • So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?    
    • I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines     ... zero issues, staged of course    Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines.   
×
×
  • Create New...