Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Offset

RS-V AREO

By RS-V AREO,
in Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Zorro Community Regular

Zorro

Posted
Posted (edited)

S1 - 18x9.5 +14 245/40. The front just fits, but the rears are as close to the strut as you can get & are scrubbing pretty hard on the "heavily" rolled guards! (anyone who says they have bigger no worries, is full of it!)

* So a 18x9 +15 to +20 235/40 would be a pretty neat fit!

Edited by Zorro
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

I'm running 18x8 +35 front. Looks shit and +6 rear and it looks about right but I've only got 235/40r18 tyres so my speedo is severely wrong. Stupid tyre placard being wrong :@. Nice way to waste $1000 on the wrong tyres

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Zorro Community Regular

Zorro

Posted
Posted

I'm running 18x8 +35 front. Looks shit and +6 rear and it looks about right but I've only got 235/40r18 tyres so my speedo is severely wrong. Stupid tyre placard being wrong :@. Nice way to waste $1000 on the wrong tyres

235/40/18 is not that far off stock! I was using that size till recently, speedo was not out by much at all (<5kmh @ 100)!

~630mm (+- 3mm) rolling dia is roughly the stock size, 235/40/18 is 645mm (225/40 = 637mm), im now using 245/40/18 which is 653mm & is only slightly out, showing a lower speed on the speedo to actual velocity!

So dont stress too much! :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted (edited)

i notice that there is very little mention when people say "ive got 20x12"s with +18 offset and they're sick as" how how far they sit out the guard or if they still flush and MORE IMPORTANTLY wheather its an AUTO OR MANUAL!

Auto's have a much wider rear track than the fronts, so if you want them both to sit flush WITHOUT SPACERS you will need a low offset front (+20 to+34 would be ok) and a HIGHER offset in the rear (+35 to +42) thus meaning you wont be able to rotate your tyres unless you get them stripped off and fitted to the opposite rims. this is based on a 8-9 inch wide rim, diameter wont affect this. the wider the rim goes the lower the offset will need to be because you'll very quickly run out of room between rim and suspension but have all the room you like outside the guard (within reason). depending on weather you have bigger brakes or coilovers this may also affect the desired offset you want to run.

If you have a MANUAL (factory RS4-S or RS260 and not a conversion) then the track is pretty much identical front to rear and depending on the look your going for anthing from a +18 to a +35 will fit and clear standard suspension. when i got my RS4-S it had 17x8 with a +42 offset, the rears were very clearly fouling the struts (hicas didnt help). now i have 18x8" with a +34 offset. this offset clears everything easily and sits roughly where the standard C34 wheels do. i have plans to have it riding quite low in the future and with this offset i wont be fouling the guards.

according to my C34 tyre placard it says the OE fitment tyre is a 215/50R17 which is a 646.7mm OD, a 235/40R18 is 645.2mm OD which is near identical. My speedo is also out 12-15kms for anything over 100kmh. a 245/40R18 as already brought up will correct for this and is 653mm OD which is less than 7mm larger than the OE fitment tyre and a legal tyre size for a c34 (OZ legal limit is upto 15mm larger and 26mm smaller than largest OE fitment).

(edit: not sure if wider track is on all auto c34 stageas or just auto AWD c34stageas)

@pipster11 = +1

@lilcrash, have you tried swapping your wheels from front to back so instead of the front sitting in and the rears sitting out they both sit flush? (if yours is an auto of course, if not they would be worth selling to an auto owner)

Edited by RS4-S
Link to comment
Share on other sites
lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

I have a manual and I purchased my rims in those 2 offsets to get the look I want. The fronts are just 10mm further in then the rears. One day I will buy some 10mm spacers but for now I need to find new brake discs that won't warp on the first drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dr.J Enthusiast

Dr.J

Posted
Posted

I'm going to go for 17's, probably a 17x8 if I can get them.

So would +20 to+34 still be about the right offset for an auto S1?

I'm looking at stock GTR 17's, or something similar...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted

being an auto i would run maybe a 20 front and 34 rear, they should close enough to even and pretty much flush with the body. unless someone has the exact measurement for how much wider the rear track is.

correct me if im wrong but i think GTR 17"s are 17x8.5 +25?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dr.J Enthusiast

Dr.J

Posted
Posted

Crap I thought GTR wheels were +18 or something close to that...

I actually have a set of staggered 18's that came off of one of my Starions, (with spacers), for a Skyline etc..

but being staggered, the ATTESA will probably have issues with them...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted

R33 GTR = 17x9 +30

R34 GTR = 18x9 +30

@Dr. J = ive seen people run staggered fitment rims with the same sized tyres front to rear on GTRs and an EVO, not sure if it caused issues but cant see why it would.

@Big Fella = is yours auto or manual?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted (edited)

i may be wrong but i was of the impression that auto= same track front rear and manual= rear 40mm narrower then front. and that is definately how my car appears.

Edited by lilcrash
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Zorro Community Regular

Zorro

Posted
Posted (edited)

quoting Big Fella: "I'm running 18 x 10 +15s all round, the fronts sit just in the gaurd, and ther rear would hang out with standard camber, running 2.2' seems all good tho"

is your auto or manual? how far did you have to pump your gaurds? what size tyres are you using? also what does 2.2 foot refer too?

Edited by Zorro
Link to comment
Share on other sites
d1_drifter Community Regular

d1_drifter

Posted
Posted

i may be wrong but i was of the impression that auto= same track front rear and manual= rear 40mm narrower then front. and that is definately how my car appears.

The Auto's rear is wider than the front.

Manual's is narrower than the auto's, but I don't know how it compares to the front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted (edited)

quoting Big Fella: "I'm running 18 x 10 +15s all round, the fronts sit just in the gaurd, and ther rear would hang out with standard camber, running 2.2' seems all good tho"

is your auto or manual? how far did you have to pump your gaurds? what size tyres are you using? also what does 2.2 foot refer too?

mine is auto, rolled gaurds not pumped, 2.2 degrees camber on the rear, 235/40zr18

she isn't waht i'd call low tho, check the avatar!

Edited by Big Fella
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Zorro Community Regular

Zorro

Posted
Posted

mine is auto, rolled gaurds not pumped, 2.2 degrees camber on the rear, 235/40zr18

she isn't waht i'd call low tho, check the avatar!

wow ok im surprised you fitted that size wheel that easily, maybe there is a slight difference between s1 & s2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted

wow ok im surprised you fitted that size wheel that easily, maybe there is a slight difference between s1 & s2?

have you got any photos of how your rears sit? 18x9.5+15 would sit nearly the same as mine, just a little further in. is yours auto or manual?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • makkos13
      Premier Сasual Dating - Real-life Females

      By makkos13 · Posted

      Candid connections: Platform for casual relationships Authentic Maidens Supreme Сasual Dating
    • GTSBoy
      Problem with 5th after manual swap on R32 GTS4

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rob's S Chassis track cars- 180sx and S15

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • TheOrangeSkittle
      Problem with 5th after manual swap on R32 GTS4

      By TheOrangeSkittle · Posted

      I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
×
×
  • Create New...