Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i was wanting to know how much the RB20DET box can handle? i now it would be best to get the RB25det box, but at a third of the price its hard not to consider the RB20det box. my car is a relatively stock (for now) R33, my goal is one day to have round the 250-280rwkw mark, with track days etc in mind. will it be fine with just a better clutch or what?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352978-rb20det-box-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites

RB20DET is a piss weak gearbox. I wouldn't put one in a stock RB25 street car, let alone tracking @ 250rwkw.

Also, FYI an uprated clutch puts extra pressure on the gearbox, not the other way around. It's meant to be the weak link in the driveline. What's wrong with your current gearbox?

also depends alot on how you treat your car/box.

i have a 20box running behind a 30DET with 285rwkw and a bucket load of torque. its a track only car too, been going good for two years doing motorkhana's, texis, hillclimbs and normal track days.

i figured i could go through 5 for the price of one 25box, but yeah, so far so good.

Yes, you would have to reconvert everything as the RB25 is a completely different box. Do it properly first time around and get an RB25...there's a reason Nissan didn't use the RB20 box in the R33. If you blow up even one or two boxes, the cost and time to replace won't have been worth it, not to mention how bad it feels retiring from the track with no gears :)

not to mention how bad it feels retiring from the track with no gears :)

you'd have to feel awesome but, like my car is sooo powerful it munches metal cogey spinney things!

Really is a valid point though.

you'd have to feel awesome but, like my car is sooo powerful it munches metal cogey spinney things!

Really is a valid point though.

Hahaha, or the sad reality in most cases "I can't drive a manual for shit".

I'm very surprised you've lasted this long with the RB20 behind an RB30ET. Very lucky or you know how to take care of it I'd say. There are that many people who blow up the RB20 box with little more than factory boost. How much does your R31 weigh in race spec? Might factor into things, as you can run piss weak boxes behind lightweight Cobra kit cars with big V8s all day long and have no issues at all.

I also had a couple of years with a 20 box behind a 280odd rwkw rb25. Ended up removing it and selling it to upgrade to a 25 box before the inevitable death and zero resale.

This was in a full weight 32gtst.

It did get a little noiser over that time but still shifted fine.

Mechanical sympathy and a sprung centre clutch is the key.

Hahaha, or the sad reality in most cases "I can't drive a manual for shit".

I'm very surprised you've lasted this long with the RB20 behind an RB30ET. Very lucky or you know how to take care of it I'd say. There are that many people who blow up the RB20 box with little more than factory boost. How much does your R31 weigh in race spec? Might factor into things, as you can run piss weak boxes behind lightweight Cobra kit cars with big V8s all day long and have no issues at all.

just lucky i'd say. i break stuff alot.

when i last weighed it, it was 1150kg dry. so +100kg for me, say 40-60kg for cage and 35kg in fuel.

maybe 1300-1350kg

tyres are 235 fedi RSRs and a sprung centre 5 puk with 4000 pound clamp load & carbonic? pads. maybe combination of lighter weight, smaller tyre contact patch and clutch help

i actually dont want to break the box, i got a case of piss saying it'll last 12 outings.:rolleyes:

I have a rb20 (nics) if it makes a difference behind my rb25 in my coupe! Car makes around 180rwkw not to sure but im having it dynod friday! Has lasted about 2 months now. But i don't drop the clutch on it hard etc, but i think it comes down to the clutch too! I have a heavy duty clutch in it from when i bought it but i need a new clutch so if i went a too harsh clutch it would probally break after a while..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...