Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

some more progress.

secondary injectors will fit, took abit to get them sitting in the rite spot so they dont spray on to the runner and port walls and without putting the hole in the wrong spot to start with.

post-19586-0-94566200-1453540872_thumb.jpgpost-19586-0-17971500-1453540885_thumb.jpgpost-19586-0-26049500-1453540898_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-65167000-1453540913_thumb.jpgpost-19586-0-11975000-1453540924_thumb.jpg

swaybar will need some modding

post-19586-0-96543300-1453541023_thumb.jpg

had some action in the backyard withe the next doors tree...

post-19586-0-84173400-1453541099_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

no speed sensors. not really necessary. atmospheric conditions can change the boost given the same comp speed. i will be running a balance pipe on the back of the engine to average the boost to each bank.

just working out the heater/turbo plumbing atm. + water to air cooler plumbing+ our lease is up and have to move.........

secondary injectors all mounted.

It looks schmick, nice job. But why go to staged injection when you can run injectors up to 2000cc that will idle and run nicely down low as well?

If it's bling, I understand. But the work / complexity increase would make me shy away.

  • 2 weeks later...

It looks schmick, nice job. But why go to staged injection when you can run injectors up to 2000cc that will idle and run nicely down low as well?

If it's bling, I understand. But the work / complexity increase would make me shy away.

because i want it to pass an im240 if need be. my ecu can run it, and with proper injector placement i wont need as big. better economy and more consistent mixtures.

ive got a set of moran billet atomisers that will do the job, but i want it done well. fyi the "2000 ish cc" injectors on the market are gas injectors and fail on a regular basis. there not meant for liquid petrol. let alone e85. the rubber seals inside swell and change there dynamic flow rate.

yes some updates. having our lease up sucks. house hunting has taken a front seat over this.

also i am abandoning the water to air intercoolers in the manifolds. the volume is to big and will make it lazy. (i need razor sharp throttle response for the paddle shift that im running.

also bonnet clearance is an issue. i want to raise the engine a cm or 2 for ground clearance. stock sump will be marginal at best,,

ive got some old hypertune s2000 plenum shells i am modding to fit. (shortening and mirror imaging one for the r/h bank)

the water to air coolers will be mounted in the inner guards out of the way.

all but finished my 110L fuel tank. all in 316L so it wont corrode. twin walbro 400's staged and an internal gated surge tank/pot

post-19586-0-09213900-1457252365_thumb.jpgpost-19586-0-20692500-1457252375_thumb.jpgpost-19586-0-53988000-1457252389_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...

getting close. just finding the time has been hard + the 90 odd wires for the engine wiring harness took some time to make.

got the air shift piston and linkage sorted so i can use the stick and have paddle shift.

                                                                                                               DSC_0292.JPG

DSC_0317.JPG

shouldn't get hot with the "super fan"                                                                                                                                                     

DSC_0318.JPGDSC_0293.JPG

 

  • Like 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...