Jump to content
SAU Community

F . S R33 Gts-T ( Nsw )


Recommended Posts

Ok guys it's time for me to let my lady go, car is a 97 S II Skyline GTS - T, car was bought BONE STANDARD

Details as follow,

Engine.

  • Standard motor / Internals ( 156000+ )
  • K & N airfilter
  • JJR cold air box kit
  • Apex power FC ecu ( with hand controller )
  • Apex boost control kit
  • Otomoto ( Black ) FMIC
  • Strut bar ( no name ) .
  • Mongoose 3 point immobiliser with built in turbo timer

Interior / Exterior

  • Recaro S III bucket seat with rails ( Drivers side only )
  • Drift gear knob
  • 4" exhaust tip 3" turbo back
  • Belof HID's
  • Deep dish steering wheel in suede ( picked this up from just jap )
  • Works CR KAI's 18x8.5 F 18x9.0 R
  • Nissan Floor mats
  • Carbon fibre Bonnet ( picked up from MU SECRET )

Ok guy thats pretty much it for the car, car paint is a bit how you going in places but what can you expect from a car of that age can organize for

a respray back to factory color "white" at the buyers expense, all work and tuning has taken place at PULSE RACING in menai,

car has made 201.5 KW / 273.9 HP ATW @ 10psi and 225.3 KW / 306.32 HP ATW @ 14psi i have dyno sheets to prove, also have been told

that this is safely operating within the standard turbo's limits, tuning alone has set me back a pretty penny.

Car also has a decent sound system worth a little over $1100,

Im asking for $13,000 "with a full years rego, CR KAI's" & $12,000 "remaining rego till late may and standard rims".

Reason for sale is needing extra funds for my wedding in April, also willing to trade with cash my way with car's of interest as i've recently taken

up an interest in drifting so car's like the S13/14, 180SX, RX7 FC SW20 MR2, all turbo charged of course, will be seriously considered.

Please no low balling, all serious offers will be considered just looking for a hassle free quick sale please, car located in SYDNEY.

Cheers guy's enjoy,

Jace

Edited by sogeCEO
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...