Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am new to this forum. I have a R34 GTT and i recently bought some parts and wish to install them. However I would like to find out what the cost would be like to get them all fitted.

I have asked a mechanic and he has quoted me roughly between $800-$100 for fitting all the below listed items and servicing :

1. Blitz FMIC

2. Greddy PROFEC B-SPEC 2 Boost Controller

3. Flanged Metal Cat

4. HKS Super SQV 3 BOV

5. HID bulbs

6. NISMO LED Tail Lights

7. Front Head Light and Rear Tail Light LED Halo Rings

7a. Programming of the lights so that on first click (low beam) only the halos come on

7b. Second click, the HID and LED Tail Lights come on but the rear Halo goes off

7c. Application of brakes, the LED Tail Lights get brighter but the Halo stays off

8. 3 internal flip switches for future use with external and internal lighting

9. Every 5000kms routine servicing

10. Wheel alignment inspection

Its quite a big job. Was just wondering about the cost of it and whether it is worth it.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359769-fitting-costs/
Share on other sites

Could fit most of those items yourself pretty easily. I'd suggest researching it and doing most yourself.

Most Skyline owners are pretty handy their cars. Comes with the territory. But incidently, it saves large sums of money which can be spent on parts rather than labour.

7,8 and 10 are the only ones that might be more difficult without the proper equipment and knowledge.

Intercooler setup is pretty straight forward. Your boost controller comes with instructions. The cat is bolt in. Don't see why you'd need an aftermarket bov for a pretty well stock car and your basic 5000km service can be done by anyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359769-fitting-costs/#findComment-5751664
Share on other sites

i have

front slotted rotors

front pads / shims / braided lines

front pipe / cat

ebc

hicas lock bar

and a service and its costing me 2K..

i have a blitz return flow fmic which they said could cost another K to get on.. so i think your getting a good deal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359769-fitting-costs/#findComment-5751922
Share on other sites

i have

front slotted rotors

front pads / shims / braided lines

front pipe / cat

ebc

hicas lock bar

and a service and its costing me 2K..

i have a blitz return flow fmic which they said could cost another K to get on.. so i think your getting a good deal

You're really going to pay $3000 for that to be fiteed? :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359769-fitting-costs/#findComment-5751962
Share on other sites

Thanks anyway, well i'm pretty dumb when it comes to fitting such stuff. Anyway i got it all done for just over 600 so its not too bad. I'd love to learn to do all those stuff but I haven't got much spare time. But thanks again guys. Appreciate the replies =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359769-fitting-costs/#findComment-5761786
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And make sure the belts are tightened appropriately too.
    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...