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Which Turbos Should I Get For My Standard R33 Gtr?


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Hey guys I have a standard R33 GTR and I need some help to decide which turbos I should get.

The power output I am hoping for is at least 300 kW @ wheels.

I have these parts which I haven't installed yet:

*Apexi Power FC

*Apexi AVC-R

*Apexi N1 Evolution exhaust system + Decat + Apexi front pipe.

I am planning on just having a standard internal engine with just upgraded injectors and fuel pump.

Which turbos are the best for my requirements out of the GT2860 series ( -5, -7 or -9)?

Also, how much power can the standard clutch handle?

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if you want 300kw's, -9s (dont bother with -7s as -9s are basically a newer and more efficient version)

if you want more -5s (ive got em and dont consider them laggy the way some would have you believe)

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hey mate i have some garret 25/30/s that will make good power and response speak to anyone who truly know's about building gtr's they will tell u 25/30's are a good choice for power between 350awhp on very low boost to 500awhp on about 21/23 psi on pump fuel mine made on std pump fuel and std motor with apexi and exhaust only 460 on 20 psi on a hot day in all wheel drive and that was with std dump and manifolds

i have them on manifolds and dump pipes for 1800 they are near new 2000/3000 klm's old with receipts from gcg cheers check my topics

reguards steve 0402349413

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Hey guys I have a standard R33 GTR and I need some help to decide which turbos I should get.

The power output I am hoping for is at least 300 kW @ wheels.

I have these parts which I haven't installed yet:

*Apexi Power FC

*Apexi AVC-R

*Apexi N1 Evolution exhaust system + Decat + Apexi front pipe.

I am planning on just having a standard internal engine with just upgraded injectors and fuel pump.

Which turbos are the best for my requirements out of the GT2860 series ( -5, -7 or -9)?

Also, how much power can the standard clutch handle?

300rwkw, -7s is a perfect choice.

Stock clutch you might find will be in need of attention. It might be ok initially but it's not going to last forever.

If you don't plan on buying AFM's, then IMO don't buy the injectors. The two go hand in hand and realistically are only going to allow you to make ~20wkw more with -7s

So you can save yourself the $1500+ and not buy them if you want, it's upto you on that one i guess. Lot of money for not much more power and you could spend it on a clutch :thumbsup:

Just some other info - I've had -9s and currently have -5s.

For 300rwkw -5s are IMO far too big. On a dyno there really isn't much difference, maybe 400-500rpm however I noticed quite a bit more lag around town driving it on the street. Especially on/off throttle and so on, up in the hills as well there is that extra "half second" delay feeling.

I'd certainly not choose -5s for a street car.

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I'm going to need AFM's because of the PFC.

How much power can the standard engine handle safely if I bought -5's?

Nah sorry - As Zebra alluded too, it's the power potential of the stock AFM's that are the issue :)

They will be maxed out around 280-300rwkw. Each car is different as is the max point.

Safely is always a good question. If it's just a street driven car, no track days etc. 330-350rwkw should last you a good many years with a decent tune and good servicing. This also assumes the motor is in good condition.

Not the most power you can make out of -5s, they will do 370-400 motor/build/boost depending.

So you'll take a response hit for the power is my point which isn't necessarily ideal. You'll also have to keep the boost to ~18psi.

I mean some people will tell you that you can make 400rwkw on a stock motor, and you indeed can. It's how long can it last.

My rule of thumb - If you can't afford the rebuild then don't chase the power.

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You have the information, it's your choice dude. No one can make it for you no matter how much information either side.

Special or not, i bet it's only a hundred or two either way.

Save money, less performance.

Or

Spend money, better performance

:)

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I am from NZ and the -9's cost $3262.80 here with no actuators... the -7's from FRSPORT ends up costing $2700 NZD delivered (will try to get them to declare it as a "gift" for customs tax)

Can you send me some links for some Aus stores which sell them cheaper?

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With the way your NZD is at the moment dude, you are fked either way lol :(

You'd be better off buying from the US direct given currency differences at the moment with 2700 NZD...

AUD - ~2000

USD - ~2150

$1000/turbo is pretty fken cheap for -7s, you'll save like $700NZD :O

There isn't much difference between 7s and 9s anyway ---> 9s make a little more top end, 7s have a little better response.

It's not as noticeable as say going from -9/-7 to -5s though to put some perspective around it. So it's minor and you'd really struggle to notice the extra 20rwkw (on 300rwkw) anyway in a lot of cases. If you had 100rwkw then 20rwkw might be a little more important

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NZD to USD is at the highest it's been in 3 years now.

I've seen alot of forum members showing dyno charts with the 7s and 9s and they only get around 280rwkw...

I say go with the 5s + you can get them cheaper????

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I've seen alot of forum members showing dyno charts with the 7s and 9s and they only get around 280rwkw...

:ermm: What results you are looking at?

Last 3 pages of the 16 page dyno thread, results:

308rwkw -7/21psi

290rwkw -7/18psi

300rwkw -9/18psi

Results are for stock motors. Some running stock fuel systems also as 280-300rwkw is the limit for all of that.

Bit more fuel/boost on some of those and more can be made. But as i said earlier - it's $1500+ for 20rwkw then...

I made 280rwkw on 17psi on a built motor. And plenty of others have made 330rwkw on 20-22psi on built motors as well just for reference. 280rwkw is not the limit.

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