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Anti-Roll Bars / Stabilizer Bar - Cusco + Nismo


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    • As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you  will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.
    • So about 10 years ago, i bought a brand new Greddy FFP (a legit one), which i have always wanted to put on. Now i know there is no real performance gain, however i have always been a fan of how much it simplifies the engine bay and makes servicing that much easier. The reason i never got round to installing it is that it just seemed more trouble than its worth for basically a stock car.. All mods to date are more suspension/handling/drivetrain, so today i made the decision to start with the more serious (and expensive) part of the mods, the engine hardware.. Today i purchased: Xspurt 1000cc injectors (1/2 height) EFI Hardware fuel rail GFB FX-R fuel pressure regulator necessary fittings to direct mount regulator to rail NZ Wiring trigger kit 82mm Bosch DBW throttle body Taarks 82mm DBW to 3" hose clamp adaptor Outsider Garage 350z pedal kit Franklin Performance R35 GTR coil kit There is still a bit of time before this will make its way into the car, as i want to have a complete cold side assembly, with a sub-harness all good to go. As a note, i have heard the the 82mm Bosch DBW throttle unit is basically a direct bolt on with some very slight mods to the plenum, so will be testing this out.
    • Awesome, thanks for your help👍👍
    • https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/engine/211/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/electric/278/ The hose on the left closest to the firewall is a heater core pipe. It also goes to the oil/coolant heat exchanger and the throttle body. The hose it attaches to is 92400, which is the upper heater core hose. The one to the right of that goes to the lower heater core hose. In the absence of proper photos at each step showing how everything is laid out from the factory the EPC is as good as it gets.
    • Hi All I’m Rene, based in Hamilton NZ and am the owner of a silver 1996 R33 coupe. I bought the car in August 2009 and I am the first owner in NZ. When I first purchased the car, it was a bone stock gts25t automatic with approximately 75,000kms on the clock. From memory I paid about $8,600 from the dealer:   Mod History So over the years I have done a few modifications. The first real mod I did was wheels (on stock shocks) and tints: Now this was done prior to finding out about SAU/SDU, meaning I had no understanding about things like fitment, so was rolling round in 4x4 spec for some time.. Eventually I became a bit more educated (thanks to the forums) and started to do things a bit better. Rather than write a novel of the last 13 years of ownership, I thought I’d just add the list of mods: Exedy lightweight flywheel Exedy full face organic clutch Braided clutch line Adjustable whiteline swaybars (front and rear) Znoelli dimple drilled and slotted brakes with performance pads (front and rear) Braided brake lines (front and rear) BC Gold adjustable suspension Hicas lock bar Tomei upgraded fuel pump Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit 3” exhaust from turbo back, with 3” bellmouth dump R34 OP6 turbo Mishimoto aluminium radiator ATP catch can and speedflow fittings 17x10r and 17x9f wheels with Falken fk452 all round Innovate mtx range gauges (oil, wideband and boost)  Funnily enough, this list was actually composed to add to the classified to sell it, however I just can’t bring myself to do it. Did you say M3 @Dose Pipe Sutututu? Anyway, this brings us to the current day The car now has 105,000ks and is barely used as I just don’t have time and it doesn’t really suit being my daily (as I need something more suitable to visit construction sites). I don’t think I have even driven it in the past 12 months.. Build Direction The plan here is to go for a bit of an OEM+ type vibe, so nothing too extreme. I am also planning to modernise a lot of the vehicle with things like new ECU (decided on Haltech), DBW, cruise control etc. The power will eventually get increased with an end goal of around 280-330kw. I am keen to get a bit more motivation and actually get this car build back up and going again. It may not be the fastest build, but I’ll get there eventually! And then I’m less likely to try sell it..
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