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Strut Bar Compatability Question + Engine Rebuild Goodness


CruisingFast
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Hi Guys,

Does anyone know if the R33/34 GTR front strut braces will fit a S1 260RS Stagea?

The running gear is 33 GTR, just curious as I'm looking at buying this strut brace: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19793&cat=394&page=1

On a side note, I finally got around to getting the suspension lowered with TEIN Super Flex coilovers plus some whiteline goodness replacing bushes and upper control arms and a few other things done. Getting a full forged engine rebuild next month, will post up the details soon... can't wait, getting closer to finishing of this car which will be used mostly for street and weekends etc.... hoping to get something over 350rwkw, will need a better clutch before I go any further.

Cheers,

Adam

Here's some of the work getting done on the motor....

Taking my head off and getting it cleaned and polished ready for a bottom end that's already been assembled at the mechanics.

Going to reuse some parts that are all under 10,000km old, this includes my HKS iridium plugs, HKS 660C injectors HKS Fuel rail and HKS adjustable cam gears. Also keeping the HKS GT-SS turbos which are practically new.

Adding to the head:

TOMEI Camshafts Poncam RB26DETT 9163 Type B (9.15 lift 260 degree) TOMEI Valve Springs Set Type-B RB26DETT 9784 TOMEI Metal Gasket Combination Set RB26DETT 13436

The bottom end has been prepared seperately, I'm replacing mine due to a small hairline crack which has been leaking a little water....

rb26 bottom end. block chemicaly cleaned, bored 40thou, crack tested, new welsh plugs, de-burred. r33 crank cryo frozen for strength, balanced, crack tested, micro polished. new n1 oil pump and n1 water pump. new oil squiters in block, new nitto H beam rods, cp 40thou pistons, nismo bearings. full arp head and main stud kit, tomei oil restrictor.

I got a larger front mount too, which I figured would be good for the extra boost this motor will be able to handle, ended up getting a HKS GT intecooler, I didn't get the larger one they have as that would've been silly so got the 600X300X100 sized core.

Also getting the Kakimoto Full Mega N1 exhaust... hoping that fits up alright I already have HKS dump pipes and an apexi front pipe.

Car will be getting the final bits done in a couple weeks. I posted some pics of my car a while back, once the weather fines up I'll take some more photos to share as everything comes together.

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Doubt the strut brace will fit or they would list C34 Stagea. Why didn't you get an RB30? Should still make 350awkw with the right ecu (what are you using) and a good tune. Got a new fuel pump? Get some copper plugs.

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The RB30 would've costed me more in the end... after the suspension and other bits I've done I'm starting to get a little heat from the misses so I've had to be a little careful to leave some coin to keep her onside. I had a crack in my block and needed an answer quickly and in the end the bottom end came in at a pretty good price, it only cost was for materials really and the labour was free.... another mechanic did the work then opted for the 30 and decided to sell. He was going to keep the 26 he had done then I called and had the cash to pay straight up to cover his costs so we both came out of the transaction okay.

I've got an Apexi power fc at the moment... The fuel pump is an intank nismo, I believe these are 280lph and with the bigger injectors should be okay??

I wouldn't mind changing the ecu, just waiting on e85 to be more readily available in QLD then was going to change to a dual map setup with a Haltech or the other option was the Vipec. What ecu do you run? From what I've learnt reading forums and places like this the ecu doesn't play into the numbers (kw) so much its the tuner who can make the motor sing?

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The RB30 would've costed me more in the end... after the suspension and other bits I've done I'm starting to get a little heat from the misses so I've had to be a little careful to leave some coin to keep her onside. I had a crack in my block and needed an answer quickly and in the end the bottom end came in at a pretty good price, it only cost was for materials really and the labour was free.... another mechanic did the work then opted for the 30 and decided to sell. He was going to keep the 26 he had done then I called and had the cash to pay straight up to cover his costs so we both came out of the transaction okay.

I've got an Apexi power fc at the moment... The fuel pump is an intank nismo, I believe these are 280lph and with the bigger injectors should be okay??

I wouldn't mind changing the ecu, just waiting on e85 to be more readily available in QLD then was going to change to a dual map setup with a Haltech or the other option was the Vipec. What ecu do you run? From what I've learnt reading forums and places like this the ecu doesn't play into the numbers (kw) so much its the tuner who can make the motor sing?

Yep Nismo should be fine. PFC will be fine. I have a Link G4 but yes the right tuner is the important part. And driveabilty - minimum lag and max midrange power is what makes the car fun to drive not the kw at max revs!
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Yeah I had a look on a site on Japan last night and picked up they had different part numbers for a Cusco strut bar for the GTR VS STAGEA.

Thanks guys for confirming this. I did notice a Haltech group buy is on at the moment. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360760-haltech-ecu-group-buy/page__gopid__5788102#entry5788102

Is anyone running a Platinum Sport 2000? From all reports these are pretty decent and could make it easier to unlock the full potential from the mods I've got.

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Owner of my local workshop is making about 550awkw in his 10 second GTR with a PFC. Spend your $$$ on other things unless you really want to change and you have money to burn!

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Good call, ecu mod is taking a back seat.. I guess the doubt started to creep in after a few shops keep plugging these new ecu's who go on about how much better they are.

I'm thinking of getting my diffs done as I've got a small issue which I've got a couple posts regarding this problem in the drivetrain forum. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362676-troubleshooters-slipping-and-vibration-feeling-on-full-lock-turns/

These diffs look to be good and from what I've read are the most streetable, would be a perfect time to do this seeing the engine will be out, just checking on availability. RHD Japan are good suppliers, I got all my Tomei and HKS parts paid for and received in under 2 weeks both times, the aussie dollar is doing really good too so I could get those diff option below delivered to my door for a little over $2600.

NISMO Front 1.5way LSD Skyline GT-R (Main SKU : 23059)

NISMO GT LSD Pro w/ LSD oil Silvia 180SX Skyline Fairlady Z Cefiro Laurel Stagea (Main SKU : 53473)

I guess getting back to what you said about money to burn, I don't really want to be throwing money away though I don't know if there's much that can be done if I went for a rebuild/repair option locally. I'm going to hit my mechanic up on Tuesday (public holiday Monday) and see whether there is a cheaper option.

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Might have found a cheaper way to get the feeling corrected in the diff, read this on another forum... hmm so dont worry about the centre diff, just do the front, not sure what the cost of a torque up will be though it might be a more sensible option.

Torque Up Getting my diff touched up this weekend, getting what the japanese call a torque up, spring plates are being replaced with NISMO ones and if I understand correctly, two disc plates are coming out and two more springs are going in, this will tighten everything up and the diff will come on faster and harder, my tuner recommends this over an LSD for the rear, its cheaper and just as effective, plus it is more street friendly. Then use the money you would have spent and buy a Carbonetics LSD for the front.

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