Jump to content
SAU Community

Does Anyone Know A Good Auto Electrician?

Shell

By Shell,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
Posted

I need an Auto Electrician...one that will come to you, as my car won't start to take it anywhere.

I'm assuming it's the starter motor as it's been having issues for a while and from talking to people it seems the most likely cause, but before I go and buy one it'd be good to get a quick diagnosis from a professional.

If anyone knows someone, that would be great :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Randon_I_Am Veteran

Randon_I_Am

Posted
Posted

Or does anybody know what to look for with a multimeter?

I can give it a go but i don't know what a good and bad readout would be.

all i could do is say that yes it's getting 12v which I'm confident it is (when the battery is charged that is).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
natett Proficient

natett

Posted
Posted

I know someone who just started his own auto elec company. he use to work for the mob across from Newgel but has since gone out on his own. Ill get his mobile number and PM you if you want

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Jimmy_8472 Proficient

Jimmy_8472

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

I've only recently started posting as i joined SAU about a week ago or something.

I have a GTT R34 in Bright yellow (fairly stock atm) which i bought in early january.

I'm no professional Auto Elec but i work in the auto industry and am pretty handy with a multimeter.

i'm not sure what the correct testing procedure is but i could ask some of the auto elecs i work with, and if need be, compare results off a multimeter test on both yours and my starter motor to try and determine if yours is busted?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Twins!! That would be great if you ask them! Any help is muchly appreciated! :)

Nathan, yeah if you could grab his number that would be awesome, and I'll see how I go :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Jimmy_8472 Proficient

Jimmy_8472

Posted
Posted

This is the simplest way to test your starter motor.

What you need.

A well charged battery

A set of jump leads.

Test the solenoid.

Connect the black jump lead to the negative- terminal of the battery and the other

end to the body of the starter motor.

Now connect the red jump lead to the positive+ terminal of the battery and touch

the other end of the lead to the terminal on the back of the solenoid.

The solenoid should click loudly and throw the starter motor pinion forward.

The starter motor should not turn.

If this does not happen, then the solenoid is faulty. Test the starter motor.

Touch the end of the red jump lead onto the large terminal of the starter.

The pinion should rotate strongly (see video below).

During these test it is quite common for large sparks to be produced. Make sure you are in a clear area where there are no flammable liquids

or other materials.

DO NOT HOLD THE STARTER WITH YOUR HANDS.

There is too much torque, safest thing is to mount it in a vice if possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Hahaha yeah might be best left to an expert (or at least someone that's not me) I think :laugh:

Not me!

I hate electrics, and I have pulled starter motors out of RBs to many times. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I think a few bolts to undo it, then a few bolts to bolt the new one in is much easier :)

Getting to said bolts is easier said than done though lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Verms Mentor

Verms

Posted
Posted

The question would be shell whats it doing?

Does it not turn over at all or does it sound like it does but sounds more like a spinning noise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The question would be shell whats it doing?

Does it not turn over at all or does it sound like it does but sounds more like a spinning noise?

It's been on it's way out for weeks but would come and go. It would grind (like when you turn the key too far when the engine's already on). Then it started getting worse and would sound like it's trying but not actually start (like you'd run out of petrol). A few goes and it would get there eventually. Again, it would come and go, sometimes it would start without an issue.

On the weekend it died completely, there's nothing at all, not even a tick tick like you get with a flat battery.

I think a few bolts to undo it, then a few bolts to bolt the new one in is much easier :)

I think you might be right :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Jimmy_8472 Proficient

Jimmy_8472

Posted
Posted

I suppose I could have a look at it for you sometime.

Shouldn't be that bad, I have tiny hands like the Japanese intended and have owned a supercharged aw11 mr2 for about 3 years.

Lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Duncan · Posted

      swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Duncan
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By Duncan · Posted

      Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • dodo1410
      Rb26 expected power

      By dodo1410 · Posted

      It’s 98
    • TurboTapin
      Rb26 expected power

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...