Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Spigot Bush Or Input Shaft


Recommended Posts

Recently i have bought a r33 gtst and it has shot spigot bush or input shaft.

The car had its clutch changed at 97.255kms which consisted of the clutch being changed , pressure plate and thrust bearing and also the flywheel was machined.

The car now sits on 118xxxkms and i dont see a point in taking out the gearbox to change the bush if its not serious.

So i was just wondering if its a good idea to ignore the problem or should it be attended to asap and also whats the worst that could happen if its not replaced and something does go wrong?

Thanks Con

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which one is it? they are completely different problems..

Spigot bush sounds like a really high pitched squeal whenever clutch is pushed in (flywheel now turning at a different speed to the input shaft, dry bearing catches). Box out, fit $10 spigot bush.

Input shaft bearing, when mine went, was a pretty severe rythmic thumping when accelerating in all gears. New box or recon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tt would be the spigot because everytime i turn the car on the noise comes on about 10 seconds after and when i press the clutch in a little bit or all the way it goes away but when my foots taken off it comes back within 2 seconds

Would you recommend changing it asap or just see how far i can go with it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the noise goes away when you put a tiny bit of pressure on the clutch pedal, i.e. pushing until the point where you start to get some resistance from the clutch pedal, then it will be a thrust bearing issue. Noisy thrust bearings are very common in Skylines, particularly if you have an aftermarket clutch. My Exedy clutch used to do it...but a bit of grease sprayed on the input shaft retainer/thrust bearing and it doesn't make the noise anymore. The noise itself isn't much to worry about unless your thrust bearing starts making noise when the clutch pedal is completely pushed in. Unfortunately gearbox has to come out to replace thrust bearing, so maybe try the grease thing or just live with the noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is it possible for this to happen because the thrust bearing has been changed along with the clutch at 97,255kms and im now at around 118xxx with paperwork "proving" the thrust was changed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it sucks now cos theres no reason to pull out the gearbox other then this stupid bearing. clutch is like new and synchros and bearings are all fine inside the box..

would there be anything else worth changing while im at it so i dont have to take the box out other then if anything goes wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you attempt my diagnosis? It may tell you if there is a thrust bearing issue. Gearbox labor isn't something I'd want to pay for if I didn't have to. It coud be as simple as spraying grease on the input shafter retainer and you're going to pull out your gearbox to replace a spigot bearing that may or may not be responsible for it.

There are logical steps to this!

If pulling out your gearbox, replace your clutch arm pivot ball for a Nismo item. They cost about $70, a good investment given how weak the factory item is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i haven't been around to the car as its in storage i will be going tomorrow and ill try putting the grease on the shaft and see how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got the same problem (excedy clutch installed 15,000kms ago), although mines gotten to the point where it makes the ticking noise even with the clutch dis-engaged. Also told it was the thrust/spigot bearing and that its not really a problem until it starts messing with clutch feel etc.

Birds - "bit of grease sprayed on the input shaft retainer/thrust bearing". is this accessible from underneath the car? Sorry bit of a noob here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thrust and spigot bearing are very different parts. Spigot sits inside the engine block at the end of the crank. Thrust bearing sits on the input shaft retainer and gets pressed up against the pressure plate. Again, if you do my simple test it can often rule out one or the other.

As far as spraying grease goes, that's easy enough, you need to unbolt the slave cylinder...pull off the clutch fork dust cover and shine a torch in there...you'll see the thrust bearing and input shaft retainer. Avoid spraying towards your clutch... you don't need grease in there lol. Put a bit on the clutch fork pivot ball while you're at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got the same problem (excedy clutch installed 15,000kms ago), although mines gotten to the point where it makes the ticking noise even with the clutch dis-engaged. Also told it was the thrust/spigot bearing and that its not really a problem until it starts messing with clutch feel etc.

Birds - "bit of grease sprayed on the input shaft retainer/thrust bearing". is this accessible from underneath the car? Sorry bit of a noob here.

Clicking when dis-engaging the clutch means the clutch pedal box is broken and it needs to be replaced. You should also change the clutch pedal bracket or upgrade to the nismo one.

If you dont fix this the pedal can snap at the welds on the firewall. Look it up in other threads in this section for more info on it.

My exedy is only 10,000km old and the thrust bearing is noisy aswell. You will never break anything by leaving it noisey.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clicking when dis-engaging the clutch means the clutch pedal box is broken and it needs to be replaced. You should also change the clutch pedal bracket or upgrade to the nismo one.

If you dont fix this the pedal can snap at the welds on the firewall. Look it up in other threads in this section for more info on it.

My exedy is only 10,000km old and the thrust bearing is noisy aswell. You will never break anything by leaving it noisey.

I'll look into this, and i checked that thread out. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

iv finally had some time and i went around to where my cars in storage and i took a video of the 2 problems,

the squeaky clutch and the ringing bell noise that happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clicking when dis-engaging the clutch means the clutch pedal box is broken and it needs to be replaced. You should also change the clutch pedal bracket or upgrade to the nismo one.If you dont fix this the pedal can snap at the welds on the firewall. Look it up in other threads in this section for more info on it.My exedy is only 10,000km old and the thrust bearing is noisy aswell. You will never break anything by leaving it noisey.

It CAN mean this but can also just be the springs on the clutch plate itself (not an issue). Define "clicking" noise. The broken clutch bracket is more a cracking sound rather than clicking.

Edited by simpletool
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
    • I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 
    • Which one do you use? Your bottom end is still standard isn't it?
×
×
  • Create New...