Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys there are a few of us that are goin to run the stuff in our skylines. Then we will honestly post the resullts. After that, then u can either apoligise or slander this guy somemore.

Basically if i was him i would of told u all to F off by now. U are all being pretty naive. He is willing for us to do some tests. Give him a break for a while. And yes im also a skeptic like u all, but at least im not riding this guy like some of u.

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahah i love the simpsons so much.

But anyway, how is this a pyramid scheme of any sort. Basically this guy is tryin to promote a product, which happens to have some links to some people that did do those schemes.

But really, he hasnt offered anyone to make millions, hes just tryin to promote something.

i've got a mate that uses this stuff, his parents are connected to neways somehow! He only recomends it's use in an engine! he has good results within an engine but has had trouble with every gearbox he has put it in! We put it in his Formula Ford on the weekend (gearbox) and since then it actually kicks out of reverse gear, these are all straight cut gears too.

Not bagging it just sharing my experience!

Yeah I am skeptical, but have volunteered for the testing, I do not know much about how it will all work and will just be reporting any/all differences in the way my car drives and feels.

Also mine is a stock R33, and that means totally stock, no body kit, no filter/pod, no exhaust, rock stock, so might not see much difference, but I will be objective.

Have alread started preparing the report, noting any/all documentation and "promises" or "results" this product's promotional material tells us it "will" do and use that as a benchmark for my results.

I'll keep you all posted.

For those blatently calling this product "magic beans" all you are doing is basing your blather on heresay and not on factual results, hopefully which the people doing this testing, will be able to provide you all with to either prove or disprove what this product actually does.

Guest INASNT
You sure this isn't the new "Very Special Oil"  :(  :rofl:  :rofl:  

I'm looking forward to seeing the results!

LOL

I was thinking he should change the title to that also.

MX3TOY strikes again. Fark dont know how he can invent so many things in such a short space of time :rofl:

  • 3 weeks later...
G'day guys' date='

Roil has been used in V8 Supercars for several years now among the top teams........

Hey jetpilot1986 could you disclose which V8 supercar teams have been using

this product for several years?[/quote']

No worries... um... for legal reasons... (don't ****ing ask... we've been pushing for years to be able to disclose them, its to do with their acutal lubricant supplier/sponsor!), having said that its not to hard to figuire out...

Go to Jaguar Magazine (fully independent and has nothing to do with Roil or Neways), and one of the first things you'll read is "...is used in winning Australian V8 Supercars, successfull Bathurst 24hr racers..." Now use your imagination, which V8 Supercar team has had a pivitol role in the two 24hr racers held to date??? Put it this way, the race has only been run twice, and both times won by the same team, the same team that just happens to run a first class V8 Supercar outfit. I don't really need to say anymore.

http://www.jaguarmagazine.com/techtips/ttips6.html

Geddit???

This is a pyramid scheme, for sure.

They'd be getting around the law by having to start up a business name normally done by using your full name and that doesn't have any costs.

So instead of dealing with neways you are now dealing with [insert name here] business and here's what I'm selling.

An interesting thing is though is that up in Brisbane there 4-5 people that are selling products of the same type but are under a different name eco something and say the exact same things.

Their product names are different and the usage is different though.

Same deal with their products can't be sold in shops etc, because it's a pyramid scheme though some people do sell a box or a couple of boxes to a petrol station or 2 shops only in the area.

The other major reason why they don't sell to the shops is that they wouldn't make any money, due to the costs of transfer, sales making it. etc.

Zagan, why not wait till all the results are in, if you read back, you are saying nothing new.

Jetpilot was willing to put his money where his mouth is, and fork out product for people to try for free, people he doesnt know and have no reason to back up his claims.

Lets give the guy a go, cos if it works, well who gives a rats arse what sort of scheme it is.

Zagan... only when you can convinve me that YOU don't work in a pyramid scheme will I admit that I do! A pyramid scheme makes money by having people sign up and pash cash for the privaledge, a network marketter only gets paid through sale of stock, just like any other retail chain...

A pyramid scheme is when someone sacrifices money and time to someone above them in order to make them money... pyramid schemes are still in excistence today despite them being illegall..... who on this this forum earns more than their boss hey? 99% of people sacrifice their time to make somebody else above them money... yet put in as much, if not more effort than those making the real money.... that's a pyramid scheme!

I've got 4 other distributors who i've sponsored, 3 of which earn more money than me... y? Cause they work harder... and that's only fair.... Your boss won't give a rats arse how hard you work... ur never going to earn more money than him....

Roil has never been relabelled and sold by another 'eco something' company, nor will it ever be... its manufactured by Neways in New Zealand and the US, and exclusively distributed.... honestly dude... y would an identical product as you claim required different ussages???

Whether ppl like to admit it... their time gets bought at wholesale, and sold off at retail... and that's not fair!!! I work for myself, under my own registered business name, promoting products that i buy independently off a manufacturer... you wanna tell me wots wrong with that???

Whether ppl like to admit it... their time gets bought at wholesale, and sold off at retail... and that's not fair!!! I work for myself, under my own registered business name, promoting products that i buy independently off a manufacturer... you wanna tell me wots wrong with that???

I think you find it's against SAU rules to run you business on this forum without giving a 'sponsors donation' to SAU.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys ๐Ÿ™. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure ๐Ÿ˜‰ Explenation is right there, i just missed it ๐Ÿคฆโ€โ™‚๏ธ. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned ๐Ÿค”. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...