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Adam's Stagea Drift Car ... Wait What?


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LOLVO.jpg

With my recent decision on parting out the Skyline, I’ve not got a chance to do what was destined for the Stagea many moons ago.

The original plan for the Stagea was to make it a cool street car that I could take to the track and flog. Thought out mods included manual conversion, ECU + tune and basic boltons … a set of wheels and a shit-ton of low.

I was half way there, cosmetically the car was perfect and I had all the parts ready to go for the manual conversion. Until I suddenly lost interest in it. I started looking around, finding a more “suitable” drift car. That’s when I saw the blue demon child that I ended up purchasing.

I ended up parting out the Stagea completely, and for a little while I even had it up for sale.

Moving on just over a years time and we are back at the beginning, so to speak. This time my original plan will be fulfilled.

Tein-super-flex-wagon.jpg

Without wasting time, I started to hunt for parts. I found a set of Tein super flex wagon coilovers that look to be in great condition. I’m really hoping these will get me nice and low. Judging by the shock length and adjustablility I should be able to get the Stagea licking pavement.

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While doing a small order, I figured I’d order another NA grille, these look so much better than the RS4/honeycomb grille.

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I absolutely loved the clutch in my MX5 and that just happened to be a 409D made my Ogura (ORC). So I figured to get another ORC clutch for the Stagea, I picked this 409D at a very good price. It has plenty of meat too!

That’s all that’s coming from Japan at the moment. Though I do have my eye on a set of wheels that would suit the wagon to a tee.

My deadline of the November Matsuri still exists, and if anything it should be less hassle getting the Stagea there then the Skyline would have been.

Bring it on!

Rekindling old love

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Once upon a time, I never used to like dinner-plate type wheels. But over the years they have grown on me quite a bit. I remember before purchasing my own Stagea, there was one in Japan owned by Grant Wilson. Grant is from the US and was living in Japan at the time, and well he’s one crazy cat when it comes to cars.

Going through his build thread on SAU something triggered me to believe I’ve seen, or heard of this guy before. Turns out he is the same dude on CR.net that was building a rad NA Miata … small world!

Anyway, his Stagea was pretty much the deal-breaker for me. It determined me to find a DAYZ edition, zenki model.

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For a short while, it used to run Work Euroline DH wheels.

The chunky, flat wheel design paired with the boxiness of the Nissan Stagea (and a shitload of low) is a perfect combo in my eyes.

So when Benny found a set on Yahoo, I knew they would be the new set of wheels for my own Stagea. The beauty of Eurolines is that they are fairly common wheel too, so hopefully I can find a few matching pairs as skidders.

Specs are 18×9 and 18×10, both with positive 20 offsets. It’s not fantastic but it’ll be made right with some small spacers.

Ugh, the wait begins.

DINNER PLATES

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Brake-parts.jpg

Anyone who has driven my Stagea lately, would know that the brakes were complete buckets of shit, the pedal feel was shocking, and you’d basically use all the pedal travel just to get the boat to stop.

It needed to be rectified ASAP! Originally I was going to change the pads and do a fluid flush, but now that the Skyline is stripped bare I thought I’d salvage a few parts for the Stagea.

The brake setup consists of R33 calipers, RDA slotted rotors all round, Bendix ultimate pads all round, HEL braided lines and Motul RBF660 brake fluid.

New-front-brake-setup.jpg

Anthony was the man to do the install, while I tackled the rear subframe swap. I love working on my car at the Dahtone Racing workshop, but it’s daunting trying to find the right tool for the job haha.

I didn’t realise how small the OEM brake setup was, check out the “modified” cover behind the rear brake setup. Anth had to chop and bend the crap out of it just so the new rotors would fit without interference. Some massaging was required up front too, but not as drastic as the rears.

New-rear-brake-setup.jpg

Upon bleeding the brakes, we heard a loud pressurised sound. Anth had a look over to the front passenger side and saw brake fluid sprayed everywhere … the braided line has burst!

Reason for this was that some knob in the HEL factory didn’t crimp the fitting onto the hose!

HEL have taken responsibility for it and are sending me out another line. Be carefull when you buy braided lines ladies and gents. Check that all the fittings have been crimped before install or you could be in a world of pain.

So how does it stop? Freaking amazing! pedal feel is a little lousy but if you need to stop, it’ll pull the 2 tonne boat up with ease!

DEPLOY THE ANCHORS

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Stagea-subframe-clearance.jpg

Have you ever looked at your Automatic Stagea and wondered why the rear wheels sit closer to the guard than the fronts? Well on the automatic versions the rear subframe is wider than the manual model Stagea.

This can complicate things when trying to fit aftermarket wheels, and will force you to run spacers up front if you want to have similar fitment all round.

Stagea-subframe-length.jpg

There is a lot of information floating around on how wide the automatic subframe is compared to a manual version. So I was curious to know what it actually is.

Above is the length of the Stagea rear subframe, and below is the new subframe length.

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The new subframe is 40mm shorter in total, which means it’s 20mm shorter each side. This evens out the track perfectly.

Another thing that got me thinking was, what happens to the shock clearance when the shorter subframe has been installed?

As you can see in the first image, shock clearance from the back of a OEM S14/R33 wheel (16×6.5 +40) is roughly 50mm.

S14-subframe-clearance.jpg

It’s safe to say that the shorter subframe has effected inner clearance in the same way, roughly 20mm has been lost from shock to rear wheel clearance. Although this was measured straight after the subframe swap, so I am unsure if there has been a change in camber.

For those wondering what the limit on inner clearance is before your wheels make love to the shocks, I’d say 25-30mm is the lowest you could have.

My old setup (18×10 +21) used to touch the shock on things like driveways. I then added a 5mm spacer and all was well.

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The subframe I used was out of an S14 Silvia, which is identical to the subframe found in a factory manual Stagea. If your Stagea has HICAS you could use an R33 Skyline rear subframe (or if you wanted to be clever, you could eliminate HICAS by using an S14 subframe, instead of running a lock bar).

While I was at it, I made my subframe completely solid and installed some diff mounts I’ve had for a while (I did subframe risers while this subframe was in the Skyline).

It would be a good idea to swap out the OEM bushes for something new if you do plan to do such a swap, how often do you pull apart a rear end of the car?

Oh and if you’re worried about the half shafts or sway bar being too long to fit the shorter subframe, don’t be. All my OEM items fitted up fine.

If the track difference on your Auto Stagea annoys you as much as it did me, this is the perfect way to rectify it.

HOW TO: REDUCE REAR TRACK ON A NISSAN STAGEA

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Last week I did a blog entry about finding a set of Work Euroline wheels for my Nissan Stagea. The idea of purchasing those wheels was to run them until something with “ideal” sizes came along.

Funnily enough a day after writing that blog entry, Benny hit the jackpot! He found a set of SSR Viennas in sizes that would be perfect for the Stagea.

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Soon enough I contacted Jesse and put a outragous bid on them, I was not going to let these go anywhere!

Seeing that I’ve been buying so much gear from Japan I’ve run into a problem of shipping things to my selected adress. The way I’m going customs will think I am running a business and will start charging me taxes and all that jazz.

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So I took my chances and advertised the Eurolines on a few forums. Within a few hours they were sold, talk about luck!

The only thing that is slightly worrying about the Viennas is that the rears are 10 and a half inches wide. I haven’t come across any Stageas running anything wider than a 10 inch wheel at the back.

I have a few ideas to help me get some more clearance though, It’ll be interesting to see how it’ll go.

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Benny was on a roll! He is the master at finding wheels on Yahoo auctions, I kid you not he will sit there for hours on end, looking at every wheel on offer until he finds something interesting.

He also came across of a pair Work Euroline N2 wheels. These were an absolute bargain and aggressive in sizing too (18×10 -10). They will make a great pair of skidders and have almost identical fitment to the Viennas.

Best of all, they should all arrive right before Wakefield Matsuri.

Hopefully this will quench my thirst for wheels … for a while.

DINNER PLATES - TAKE 2

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Cusco-rear-strut-brace.jpg

One of the major downfalls of the Stagea is that it’s a really “boaty” ride. Ok fair enough it’s a big car, but c’mon! Even with the first setup (10/8 spring rates) it had less than desirable body roll. With the new build I am focusing on having a great all round package. So it’s time to look into the suspension department.

While the Tein Super flex wagon coilovers are halfway to Australia, I ordered a few other parts to get the suspension side of things down pat. One part just happens to be a Cusco rear strut brace. For a while I was under the impression that rear strut braces were no longer in production for the Nissan Stagea (Trust/Greddy ceased production some time ago), until I dug a little deeper.

I came across RHD Japan being mentioned on some very old threads. So I had a browse around and there they were. The Cusco Type OS strut bar (which happen to be on special), with the Stagea listed to still be in production.

Cusco-rear-strut-installed.jpg

I placed an order and patiently waited for the Cusco brace to land in Australia, turn around time was roughly 1 week (gotta love EMS).

It made quite a bit of difference too, the rear of the car feels nice, responsive and more stable. Where-as the front of the car feels more “floaty” than it did before the brace was installed.

A STIFFER REAR END

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Racetech-gauge-bundle.jpg

Seeing that the Stagea will be getting a beating from here on in, it would be fitting to be able to monitor engine vitals. So I went with a brand that I’ve used many times, Racetech.

You can pick these up at a good price on Ebay. They are quite accurate too. My oil pressure gauge in the R33 was reading 2psi when the head started tapping it’s tits off.

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I originally had a set of Racetech gauges in the Stagea before, but I ended up taking them out. The first setup was mounted with a universal tilt gauge holder, which is designed to point the gauges towards the driver.

It didn’t work too well on the Stagea though, so I opted for a flat panel this time round.

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Installation is a simple process, the great thing about Racetech gauges is that you can bridge them together, meaning you only need to wire in one gauge to the car. All that’s needed is power, ground and constant to get them running too.

So now I can monitor my oil and water, better to be safe than sorry!

MONITORING VITALS

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So the Hit and Run invitational drift day was coming up, and Benny was keen as mustard to go. He kept bugging me to come down to spectate and passenger ride for the day. At first I said no, but then he had convinced me to come along.

A day before the event, I sent Paulie a text saying that he should take his car out drifting, it’s been a while. Paulie had some shit on and couldn’t make it, so I said “let me borrow the 33 for a day”. It was a joke, and I didn’t mean much of it but Paulie said “you break it, you buy it”. I was shocked to say the least, a few texts later and Paulie basically insisted I take his R33 to Wakefield.

Benny managed to sweet-talk Woods into getting me into the day too (it was booked out). It was like the stars were aligning, destiny and all that junk.
I was pumped to say the least! It has been about a year since I’ve had done a day in a car to myself.

Later that night, Benny and I head to Paulie’s house to pick up the R33, then brung it back to my joint and got it ready for the day of fun ahead.
6am arrived and I literally jumped out of bed (which is extremely abnormal for me), we grabbed all our gear and headed out for the long drive to Wakefield. The drive up made me realise how I’ve become used to standard cars. Paulie’s car felt super stiff and loud, I’ve gotten soft..

We arrived right in time for the short and simple drivers briefing, you could just tell the day was going to be chilled out and all about the track time.
Sorting out Paulie’s car I started to get anxious, I realised although I’ve been to Wakefield a handful of times. I actually haven’t driven the track properly. I started worrying about breaking Paulie’s car and all sorts of other shit (I over think a lot).
Anyway, I wait for Benny and we head out to pit lane, eagerly awaiting to be waved onto the track. Soon enough I got a feel for Paulie’s R33, what I can do, and what I can’t do with his car. But after a few runs I started noticing a slight drop in power. I kept at it for a little while longer and it slowly got worse, it was starting to affect my runs and getting to me.

So I pulled into pit lane and had a look around, checking the usual gear. I figured the problem was heat related, so I let it cool down for a while.

It was lunch time so everyone grabbed a bite to eat at Wakie’s cafe. I was talking to Benny about how disappointed I was in my driving, how I may have broken Paulie’s car and how I should use the money for the Stagea project, to get myself a house. I was down and out.

After lunch we headed out to the cars and I was hoping that the R33 had magically fixed itself. Unfortunately this wasn’t the case and the loss of power was getting worse. I was really starting to worry now. But then I started to think about it, it was loosing power coming out of the first corner and the 4th corner onto the back straight. It started to feel like fuel surge, this didn’t cross my mind as it had over 3/4 in the tank.
So I took it into the pits, put in some fuel and headed back out.

The funny thing is, I actually installed a Walbro fuel pump on Benny’s car, before we picked up Paulie’s R33. We used the OEM sock filter on the Walbro due to the size difference (OEM is 3 times the length) … Paulie’s car also has a Walbro, I started to think it has the Walbro sock filter/pickup on it instead of the longer OEM item.

Thankfully the R33 was back to normal and I was able to lay down some solid runs before the end of the day. I was having bucket-loads of fun. That’s what it’s all about right?
The loan car took a beating and come out unscathed. I wish I could say the same for Benny’s car though (more on that later).
All in all, we had a great day and it’s pumped me to get the Stagea “driftable” I NEED to drift again, soon!

A DRIFT DAY IN A BORROWED CAR - WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?
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Daikei-boss-kit.jpg

I don’t really like OEM wheels, they are big and bulky and make me feel like I’m steering a boat … especially in a Stagea.

So I went on my search to find a boss kit setup that’ll bypass the airbag light on the dash. I came across a Daikei boss kit that I ordered via Japan.

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The Daikei boss kit is very comprehensive, it gives you multiple bypass relays depending on what your airbag plug is, and also comes with an allen key for the two star headed bolts that secure the airbag in place.

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Wheel choice this time around was a genuine Nardi classic. It’s overall diameter is 360mm which is 50mm smaller than the OEM steering wheel.

Not only does it look nicer, it feels nicer, has given me more leg room and has made turning more responsive.

TAKE THE HELM

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Whiteline-swaybar.jpg

ike many things, swaybars are an interesting piece on the Stagea. The front end shares the same design from the R33 GTR, however the rear end is a completely different story.

Some have tried to fit GTR bars on the rear but due to the widened subframe (Auto only), most have not been successful. Now that my Stagea has a S14 rear subframe I could theoretically run a Silvia or GTR item. But I decided I will go with what has been tried and tested from fellow Stagea owners.

Alright so the proven formula is a 22mm soild swaybar up front, and a 24mm solid swaybar in the rear end. Reports state that body roll is nearly diminished, among other things. Sounds good!

Let’s check out what the standard swaybar thickness’ are.

Front-sway-bar-comparison.jpg

The front is 22mm, just like the new item. However it is a hollow piece. There isn’t such a dramatic change here.

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The rear is 20mm thick, and is also hollow. So going to a 24mm solid bar is a big difference. There is a lot of weight in the Stagea’s rear end, and the general consensus is that Nissan put an undersized swaybar in. That big boaty feeling when turning corners is generally from this little guy being too thin.

The reason for the bigger bar at the back is because the Stagea has a tendency to understeer (in 4WD mode), this helps balance it out. It’ll be interesting to see how it goes on my Stag (run in RWD), time will tell.

Installation is easy as, with only four bolts holding each swaybar to the chassis, and one on each endlink.

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One thing that did start to worry me though, is when I went to fit the rear swaybar the supplied endlink wouldn’t seat correctly to the LCA. But I managed to get it fitting well by using the “hardest” setting.

So did these make a difference … were they worth the money? You’re damn right they were! Even driving around like a sane person, you notice a lot of the body roll has vanished. I used to troll my passengers by turning the wheel viciously left to right. The car would shake around like a tinnie in rough waters … but still go straight.

If I were to do that now well I’d probably find myself in a tree, the steering response has increased 10-fold. I dare say it almost feels like I’m driving a R33 now. It’s excellent!

So I can imagine with the tein super wagon coilovers installed, it’ll have even less bodyroll.

I’m all smiles!

The Whiteline part number for the following bars are:

•BNF27Z – 22mm front adjustable sway bar

•BNR11XXZ – 24mm rear adjustable sway bar

If you’ve ever thought about getting some sway bars for your Stag, do it .. do it now!

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Holset-HX35-Turbosmart-gate.jpg

When I started the re-build on the Stagea, I was torn whether to do everything at the same time, or hold off on things like bigger injectors, turbo and ECU.

If I was to postpone power mods, I’d probably spend the money elsewhere. So hey, why not!

The ultimate goal is to keep the engine bay looking like it came from the Nissan factory, or as close to it as possible. So things like a return flow intercooler and partial airbox will be present.

One of the biggest challenges will be hiding the large frame Holset HX35 turbocharger. I’m confident with some extra shielding this will be achievable.

You’re probably wondering, if I wanted a standard looking bay, why wouldn’t I just go high-flow?

Well, for what these Holset turbos go for (I picked this up for $250), and how successful they are in the US and even some Skylines here in Australia, I’m really keen to see how it’ll go on my RB25.

These Holset’s are designed for diesel engines that run a stack of boost, so the wastegate isn’t really suitable for petrol engines without modifications. I’ve used it as an excuse to get a Turbosmart comp gate. Bitches love gate..

Haltech-and-Greddy.jpg

A downfall with the Stagea is the ECU. The Stagea has a unique wiring harness which makes having an aftermarket computer a difficult exercise, and unfortunately they aren’t flashable (i.e Nistune). So many people settle for a piggy back … the Greddy Emanage is a popular choice.

Though the whizz that Anthony is, will be merging the R33 ECU harness with my Stagea’s harness. That way we can run the Haltech E11 computer out of my Skyline.

The Greddy Profec B boost controller will also be making its way from my Skyline to the Stagea.

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I’ve sourced some 550CC denso injectors to take care of delivering fuel to the engine, along with a Walbro fuel pump. I’ll be sticking to petrol this time around due to practicality.

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Heres the remainder of parts destined to go into the Stagea in a few weeks time. There are things like the intercooler, muffler, transmission mount, oil cooler setup, suspension arms, manual conversion parts, lubricants among other things, waiting patiently to be installed.

The C34 goes into the Dahtone Racing workshop this Thursday. Exciting times ahead!

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  • 2 weeks later...

AE86DC - RALEIGH DRIFT FEST!

A few weeks ago, Adan told me about an event that Joel from the AE86DC forum was organizing.

Being held 3rd and 4th of November, it’s a 2 day (weekend) event at Raleigh international raceway. Roughly 20km from Coffs Harbour.

I’ve been keen to try out this track, and after reading all the info I frantically tried to get a spot. I’ve convinced Benny into going up too.

With only one month remaining, there are still spots left! So I’m putting it out there for fellow drifters. Drifting over two days, with a max of 25 cars this is an event you don’t want to miss!

You can find all the information on the event, and how to enter here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

TYING LOOSE ENDS

Removing-Stagea-fuel-pump.jpg

With Benny’s Stagea being close to completion, it ment that my Stagea would be heading to Dahtone Racing shortly. So I had a few more things I wanted to knock over before it was left in Anthony’s hands.

Benny was willing to help out and keep me company on Labour day too. Man this guy can squat anywhere. He got comfortable with the space-saver while tinkering with the fuel pump.

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The Stagea’s fuel pump is a weird setup. It’s housed in a plastic box at the bottom of the shallow fuel tank. It is held in by a lid and this plastic cradle.

Walbro-pump-on-Stagea-cradle.jpg

On the Series 2 Stagea, the Walbro 255LPH fuel pump is a direct replacement for the factory item. This isn’t the case with the Series 1, the S1 pump is a lot larger, infact it’s nearly identical to an R33 item.

What I’ve done is removed the top cradle holding in the fuel pump and secured it with a stainless steel hose clamp. When you put the pump back into its housing, the lid helps secure it from moving around.

We needed to do some re-wiring too, as the Walbro terminals are different to OEM.

oil-cooler-position.jpg

We also fitted the oil cooler setup. Originally I wanted to run to run the oil cooler without a filter relocator. But I was un-able to due to the front sump setup.

Anyway I knocked up a few mounts and got everything sitting pretty. It’ll need to come off again for a few minor changes though.

the-lolvo.jpg

The Stagea has finally made it to Dahtone Racing, the fun really begins now!

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  • 2 weeks later...

VISITING AN OLD FRIEND

Welding-diff.jpg

Sunday morning I headed out to visit an old friend to chill out, talk shit and get my Stagea’s diff welded up.

Originally I was going to run my Nismo 2 way LSD out of the R33. But the diff shop insisted that it wasn’t compatible. Although the LSD centre part numbers are the same between R33 and WGNC34, I took this as a oppurtinity to save some cash for other parts and run a welded diff for a while.

Adans-86.jpg

This AE86 probably doesn’t look familiar to anyone, probably because Adan hasn’t been on the blog for quite some time. I started drifting with him at Eastern Creek back in 2010 … I still had my MX-5 and he had just got this Sprinter. Although back then it was quite different … it was red too.

It’s been a while since Adan has gotten his Hachiroku sideways and many things have been changed in between. It’ll be at the Raleigh drift fest ripping it up!

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Should prob post in Skyline thread but meh

A NEW LEASE ON LIFE

R33-skyline-shell.jpg

It’s been months since my decision to “scrap” my beloved R33 skyline in favour for the Stagea. But as you can see I still do have the Skyline, although not much is left of it.

I recently received a impound notice from my local council about the R33 … in a nut shell it said “move your shit or we’ll take it and charge you $500 for doing so”. I found this a good enough reason to finally get rid of it, so I listed every detachable part off it on Ebay for stupid cheap prices. With the intention of sending it to the scrap yard tomorrow.

A Ebayer won a few auctions I had up on Friday night. His intentions were to keep them spare for a rainy day.

Now I’m sure most of you heard about that dog act at the Royal National Park last night. For those who haven’t some sick f**k laid down a shitload of oil mid-corner in the heart of RNP.

This led to a convoy of enthusiasts writing their cars off, and some put in serious injury.

This Ebayer was involved in the incident, and his R33 is looking worse for wear to say the least. He told me what he needed to get his car back to what it was … it was an extensive list just by looking at the pictures. At that point he wanted to take the shell off my hands.

It’s incredible how this all went down, just one of those things where the stars aligned and this pile of metal I had sitting at my front yard, is a chance for John to give his Skyline a new lease on life.

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WORK HORSES

stripped-plenum.jpg

I’ve been slack on the Stagea updates, so I’m just going to smash though it in one big post! LOLVO has been at Dahtone for nearly two weeks now, and while we’ve had a few set backs, we are still kinda on schedule to get it finished off this week.

Deatschwerks-injectors.jpg

One setback was my injectors, here I was thinking the Sard items I had purchased were a direct fit. I found out the hard way that they weren’t, so with our tight deadline and plenty of other shit to get done, I was on the hunt for some direct replacements.

It then clicked to me that Paulie had a set of Deatschwerks injectors he bought a while ago for his car. So I’ve stolen them off him to get me out of trouble.

There were a few more problems we were faced with, but I’ll talk some junk about it later. Moving on.

R33-handbrake-setup.jpg

The manual conversion is pretty much complete, with a few nick-knacks left with it. This went down rather smoothly except the automatic spigot bush, that gave Anth hell!

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Most of the fab work has been knocked over, again with a few minor details to be finished off.

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e manifold has been modified for my Turbosmart Comp gate, Anth and I were tossing up whether to mount off the turbo’s rear housing or not for a while, but I’m happy with the final decision.

You might notice that the turbo mounted up isn’t my big ass Holset item. Well after playing around with it we’ve deemed it too big to fit in a low-mount position without major work. As you could imagine this was a major setback but I resolved this problem swiftly.

I noticed a Kando TD06 turbo for sale on SAU at a good price, it was originally off a RB20 (very common turbo for them) but this particular one was super laggy on it. It turns out the rear turbine is a lot bigger than the norm. So I’m hoping it’ll shine on my RB25.

Stagea-exhaust-setup.jpg

Jeff and Anth designed the Stagea’s exhaust piping with the focus of minimal bends and maximum ground clearance. It has turned out great! It’s also been designed so I can still use my optional extra NISMO rear muffler, which should help me pass noise tests and restrictions if I am ever faced with them.

As for the dump pipe, I scored the custom-made item for the TD06 I purchased. While it’s not perfect it has saved us a stack of time not needing to make one up.

black-alloy-radiator.jpg

I played around with the cooling system last week, changing the thermostat, hoses and radiator core. The radiator looks awesome in black!

Intercooler-mounted.jpg

Believe it or not, there is an intercooler hiding behind the DAYZ front bumper. Anth sent me this photo and I was like “what the f**k am I looking at, are you trolling me?!”.

Anthony knocked up some mounts and needed to slightly trim the reo to get the intercooler sitting perfectly. As for piping, we are using a 90 degree and 45 degree silicone joiner with some alloy piping to plumb into the OEM stuff.

new-exhaust-setup.jpg

More updates soon!

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