Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


R32 Skyline Drift Or Circuit Race Car


Recommended Posts

post-69249-0-20838500-1304678606_thumb.jpgpost-69249-0-85219600-1304678423_thumb.jpgpost-69249-0-88147900-1304678385_thumb.jpgpost-69249-0-35672300-1304678327_thumb.jpgpost-69249-0-57854300-1304678303_thumb.jpgSelling my beloved race car. Its a 1990 gtst skyline, now fitted with a wolf ecu with hand controller, 740cc injectors, custom alloy sump and head to sump return lines.remote engine cooler,engine all balanced reco head, all new botton and rebuild, N1 oil pump, oil surge tanks, RB 25 gear box, GTR braking system, coil overs, rollcage, auto metre gages, interior stripped and 2 packed, big exhaust system,60 litre fuel cell and bosch fuel pump,locked diff,6 point racing harness,runs E85 fuel,same as V8 super cars,just been dynoed and made 350hp on 9lp boost at the rear wheels,durezza race tyres,235x45x17s on light weight 17x8 and 17x9 rims,comes with spare race tyres,has tein coilovers and comes with spares,has negative front camber and handles awesome,very competitive car and has won class championship 2 years in a row,engine only 2 meetings old,fibreglass front bumper and spoiler bolts on with zuis clips for easy removal,2 spare high flow ball bearing turbos,one needs a bearing bit these turbos will take 500hp plus,huge front mount intercooler,alloy radiator,remote oil cooler and filter setup,huge oil catch can,bolt up wheel spacers,endless brake pads,boost guage,front and rear alloy strut braces,adjustable front radius rods,splitfire coil packs,dry cell battery,club sports sedan championship winner 2009-2010,very regretfull sale,spent way to much money on car,nearly 30k,chasing $15,000,i can be contacted on 0488954213,only serious people inqure....post-69249-0-00498400-1304678284_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
    • I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 
    • Which one do you use? Your bottom end is still standard isn't it?
×
×
  • Create New...