Jump to content
SAU Community

Oh Performance


Recommended Posts

all i can find is 2nd hand motors for like 5k. id rather rebuild mind forged, bite the bullet and spend the extra and do it once and right.....

cbf getting another 2nd hand and then later on problems..... i think 13g will do it all....

You'd piss it in with 13k mate.

Forged rebuild with -7's should only cost you about 11k

Link to comment
Share on other sites

slightly off topic but OH performance wouldnt happen to be located in Melbourne would it? i bought my GTR from a bloke called james and it ended up shitting itself a month later, but i cant remember the name of the joint i got if from

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did u get a 32 gun metal grey for about 17ish? are u from broadmeadows and have been to chasers?

slightly off topic but OH performance wouldnt happen to be located in Melbourne would it? i bought my GTR from a bloke called james and it ended up shitting itself a month later, but i cant remember the name of the joint i got if from

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since we're on the subject on rebuilds. is it possible to do a full long motor ONLY standard refresh on r33 rb26 for 5k? no big power. nor only track sessions. just for daily commuting. cheers

Yes, providing everying is a-ok, rings, bearings, and say oil pump, new gaskets etc would come in just under 5k including labor and fitting etc.

If you need new pistons or re-bore etc it will will be more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

slightly off topic but OH performance wouldnt happen to be located in Melbourne would it? i bought my GTR from a bloke called james and it ended up shitting itself a month later, but i cant remember the name of the joint i got if from

McIntyre Rd, Sunshine, if it shit itself then yes it most likely came from James lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you do go down the rebuild route make sure you find a highly qualified builder that will do everything themselves. Not someone who will pass it around to 3 or 4 places for each step as then if anything goes wrong (which is does all the time) you won't have any warranty as they will all blame each other.

Honestly I think you have less risk buying an unopened second hand motor than rebuilding one, so many horror stories where they go bang for one reason or another, seems like 1/4 seem to go pop from incorrect installation of some part and then everyone blames each other and the owner is out of pocket $10k

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea 5k will easily get a standard rebuild especially if you get the engine out yourself (about 1/3rd of the work is out and back in).

Otherwise based on pricing +1 to 2nd hand, you'd get 2 for the price of a decent rebuild.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha Yea Sunshine sounds like the place. it was nearly 4 years ago but im pretty sure thats the place..

It was a red 32 GTR and yea it was like 17 grand, i was living in albury at the time so got one from Melbourne... BAD DECISION THAT ONE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what did u end up doing man? rebuild or 2nd hand?

haha Yea Sunshine sounds like the place. it was nearly 4 years ago but im pretty sure thats the place..

It was a red 32 GTR and yea it was like 17 grand, i was living in albury at the time so got one from Melbourne... BAD DECISION THAT ONE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R.I.P to the fella at OH Performance.

Their workmenship wasn't the best sounds like the cars they sell were even worse. I took my 34 in ages ago to get a turbo installed. They didn't put any gaskets on the manifold, turbo, dump pipe. Didn't install the turbo oil lines properly. Oil everywhere. The weld quality was terrible with cracks causing leakage. Now I just do all the work myself. Can't trust half these performance mechanics unless you throw them twice the amount a job is worth and still you get shotty work and pay an arm and a leg. Took them 1 month to do a turbo install. I put my new GTX3076R in less then a couple of hours. Doesn't pay been lazy.

Best of luck with your r32 GTR hope it works out, probably best to go to a repuatable performance shop unless you know how to do the work yourself.

Edited by simons987
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had james put another engine in it actually, sold the car about a year later and that engine shit itself for the new owner as wel.... mistake after mistake :domokun:

anyway bought another GTR last year.. also wrecked that engine so i now have a rebuilt one goin in as soon as my turbo kit arives.....havent had alot of luck with GTR's haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My recommendation is, (assuming you have the garage space) spend $350 on a heavy duty engine crane and $200 on a set of 1/2 inch drive sidchrome sockets. Another $50 on a good condition used engine stand. Another $200 on a torque wrench if you don't know anyone that has one.

Rip the motor out yourself.

Read the factory service manual on how to disassemble. Label every part you pull off in a ziploc bag and have them sitting in order of removal.

Pull down the block and take it to a workshop to get the bores measured. IF neccessary, get it machined oversize and order oversize pistons.

What you lack in experience you will make up for in terms of being s--tscared to do anything wrong - if you are putting it together yourself, you will be so worried about fsking something up you will check everything, like, 10 times before you put it back. ALso it's your car so you won't cut corners.

WOrkshops won't do this.

My 2c.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My recommendation is, (assuming you have the garage space) spend $350 on a heavy duty engine crane and $200 on a set of 1/2 inch drive sidchrome sockets. Another $50 on a good condition used engine stand. Another $200 on a torque wrench if you don't know anyone that has one.

Rip the motor out yourself.

Read the factory service manual on how to disassemble. Label every part you pull off in a ziploc bag and have them sitting in order of removal.

Pull down the block and take it to a workshop to get the bores measured. IF neccessary, get it machined oversize and order oversize pistons.

What you lack in experience you will make up for in terms of being s--tscared to do anything wrong - if you are putting it together yourself, you will be so worried about fsking something up you will check everything, like, 10 times before you put it back. ALso it's your car so you won't cut corners.

WOrkshops won't do this.

My 2c.

I mostly agree with this apart from one thing, get a 3/8th kinchrome socket set, i have never actually had a need for a half inch drive, was at a mates last weekend doing injectors and all he has is 1/2", so many times things would have been easier with my smaller 3/8th drive.

Also download the manual or buy one, shyte loads of detail in them and they show you how to pull everything apart, its a must for someone who has not done an engine tear down before!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My recommendation is, (assuming you have the garage space) spend $350 on a heavy duty engine crane and $200 on a set of 1/2 inch drive sidchrome sockets. Another $50 on a good condition used engine stand. Another $200 on a torque wrench if you don't know anyone that has one.

Rip the motor out yourself.

Read the factory service manual on how to disassemble. Label every part you pull off in a ziploc bag and have them sitting in order of removal.

Pull down the block and take it to a workshop to get the bores measured. IF neccessary, get it machined oversize and order oversize pistons.

What you lack in experience you will make up for in terms of being s--tscared to do anything wrong - if you are putting it together yourself, you will be so worried about fsking something up you will check everything, like, 10 times before you put it back. ALso it's your car so you won't cut corners.

WOrkshops won't do this.

My 2c.

customers wont pay for the time to do this ;) dont take me seriously Im just dicking around mate :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
    • We revised the neutral wire instructions. The old way was wrong.  R34 gearbox change.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...