Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

P Plate Legal Tow Car.

Recommended Posts

Yes it will tow easier but the fuel Econ is absolutely horrid and the na does a good enough job. More torque is great but it's gotta be on boost to make it meaning it's very thirsty and it eats premium - ouch.

Plus it uses more fuel as a normal daily and would cost more to buy and insure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i agree with all your points, i was simply saying that the difference when towing between the 2, as far as pulling power is concerned, would be more than "minimal".

plus there is the fact that the turbo isn't P plate friendly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It might help to an extent but most of the time the throttle is barely being used. I really dont think it would be on boost too often but i dont have a guage to confirm it. My point was more about the car feeling pretty stable and doing it well anyway, so the falcon is definitely an option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An 80 series Landcruiser can be had for 5-6K and will tow almost anything. Parking is no trouble because you can see over almost anything given the additional height over a normal car. It will literally go forever and maintenance, repair is stuff all as it is the most common 4wd out there. I have 2 of them and they are awesome value for money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2001 VX berlina V6

out the heavy duty tow kit, trans cooler and tows the MX5

to wakefield from central coast - average around 12.5L towing

without towing 7.8l is the best Ive got on freeway

its got all I need, cruise, climate, airbags, large and boofy!

I went for the VX as bought it off it off my old man for 7k with 87k on clock

otherwise I would have gone for a BA mkII or BF

so yeh, any falcadore will do the job :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • So….. I’ve replaced all the coils and made sure I have a spark by fitting a spark plug to one of the new coils and cranking the engine. I’ve ensured I have fuel by removing what I assume is the ‘return to tank’ fuel line and cranking the engine. So I have a spark and fuel and the car still won’t run. Any ideas? may be time to get an auto electrician out! 
    • EFI Solutions aka Taarks have a great kit just for that. Better to have facts/data before making a decision. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/exhaust-pressure-sensor-pulse-damper-emap
    • I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener???  Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly. For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone. For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously) After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER. After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products. After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine. Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.  
    • Interesting. The 30/900 looks right on paper but weather it gives me enough headroom is the question. I dont have a pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold so I won't know if I have a restriction unfortunately.
    • It depends if your current turbine is a restriction or not, if it is go up to the 35, it’s it’s not then stick the 30. Also the g30 turbine wheel will flow more then your gt30 one either way you go the compressor wheel is going walk away from your current turbo 
  • Create New...