Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Front Discs And Pads For A S2 Rs4S


lilcrash
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey. Has anyone found a bolt on front disc yet? My front discs are shaking my car to bits.I can't find any reasonably priced r34 setups either.

I found the part number for the pads a few weeks ago but now I can't find it. Anyone?

Also what is the hand brake pads part number?

Thanks and laterdays

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just get dixcel rotors, they are made for s2 stageas, i know they are sold locally in sa, but no idea in qld

and then just get QFM pads, my hpx pads are awesome

Link to comment
Share on other sites

but...before you buy new rotors....you also have the option of having them machined flat again, generally about $50. The only problem would be if they end up under minimum thickness after machining.

Also, there I don't know anyone other than drifters who has had to replace handbrake shoes...they really don't do anything except hold the car when stationary so they don't wear

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All 4 of my front discs are too warped. And they can't machine hot spots.

whoa! you have 4 front discs, your car would stop like crazy

you can machine hot spots if there is enough meat in the discs, you just have to cut more off.

I have machined my discs twice now and they still have plenty of meat to go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol no I've got a spare set. I killed the second set about 15 minutes after installing them :(. The brake place near me said that the cutting tip will just bounce off the hot spots :/.

My original discs have cracks all over them too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • TCU is enroute, should be here on Monday. Have just paid for a transmission locally, they've got to pull it out of the car and should be with me on Friday. Just getting little bits and pieces I need for wiring. Thinking about using a small bulkhead connector to run the transmission wiring through the tunnel as the trans plug is quite big.  So all going well i should have the box dummy fitted up next weekend and start wiring.
    • sure, just PM me your email....
    • Haha likewise, take my shit box for a spin and maybe you'll end up wanting a R33 shit box again lol...  
    • @Jasoncauser looks like a tight technical track, and definitely fun! Let's hope I make it to that day 😎  
    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
×
×
  • Create New...