Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Help With Small Automobile (Not The Line)


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have this issue with my non skyline, whenever it is warm it blows a bit of white/gray smoke and drips a bit of water (when fully warmed up ) and if u hit the throttle water shoots out 1 metre+ and smoke everywhere. There is no coolant in the oil, no oil around the coolant cap, its not losing any noticable amount of coolant, oil looks clean, idles fine and has what i think is all its power still. What could this issue be ? Cracked head around the exhaust valves ? Its DOHC alloy head which has ~300k kms and does have visible cracks on the back of it but they have been there for 50k kms and it never blew smoke.

*I did rebuild the engine 20,000kms (not the head)

Anyone any ideas or even come by have a look im in ghunghalin area.

<3 (no homo)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its a cheap runaround throw some bars leak into it. Warm the motor up and then take it for a gentle drive for 30 minutes. Should fix the leak.

I'd say you have a coolant leak into one of your cylinders and it only happens when it warms up. So you basically burn the water and it doesn't make the sump sso also the oil. It will get worse though and will do it eventually so its important to use the bars leak now. Chemiweld is another brand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You think crack between cylinder hole and coolant gallery or just headgasket? If its headgasket or head i can do it in a few hours no worries but if block would be sad wasted time but i gained lots of knowledge from rebuilding myself. How long the chemiweld will hold ?

Engine is 4AFE series 1

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually thinking back i think it may have been the headgasket as when i rebuilt it i didnt use a torque wrench on the head just did even turns on each bolt. (didnt have the star socket in 3/4" drive)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if she still runs a treat maybe its the colder weather. more moisture in the air. all the hydracarbons in your exhaust the CAT turns to water/steam so maybe its just abit more due to ambient temperature cooling the steam down before it exits the exhuast??

also NEVER USE BARS STOP LEAK! its like kitty litter in oil and all it does it block anything and everything it can and turns your cooling system to chocolate milkshake. if you must, use a product called "stop n go" or "seal n go" (cant remember it exactly) which is a small clear bottle with copper looking gliter in it and its actually liquid glass once heated and sets hard and seals cracks in heads and blown gaskets etc "for good" they quote. worked for 18months on my shitter falcon which had blown all the water jackets out the exhaust side of the block and no1 cylinder (head is off now but needed it to runs for a few more months at the time)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If thats the case, than those cracks on the back of the head may have opened up.

Also lol at even turns

:thumbsup:

lol it was even and very tight :P worked alright for first 20,000 kms :P

might try the seal and go and sell it to some unsuspecting person ? or is that mean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was flushing the engine for the chem-i-weld i bought and noticed bubbles of coolant near the 4th cylinder on the exhaust manifold gasket :O that means the head is cracked yes ? did the chem-i-weld the smoke got considerably less after running for 30mins now i will give it a week and maybe do another later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No more smokes now i drove from gunnghalin to tuggerz with no problems (apart from 30degree diff freeplay) but no more smoke. Radiator did look like it was being blocked by the chunks in chemi-weld but seems to have dissolved now. Thanks for the help guys :) now i can not put 1200kms a week on my skyline

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hooray! hahaha!!! the mechanic in a bottle works again

yeah fuark im heaps amazed . it completely stopped smoking couldnt even detect the tiniest amount :O think im gonna keep it in there for another week before flushing coolant again, hopefully will last till summer when i will have the energy (and not freeze) to replace the head.

thanks again :) (no homo)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • I have a Toyota Estima hybrid AHR20 2013. The diffrential arm bushing need replacing. The OEM differential arm part number is 52380-28050. Please let me know if you know anyone who can supply or supply and install the differential arm bushing. I have asked Febest Auto Parts, Auto-Parts and Auto Plus Parts, without any luck. Thank you in advance for any relevant information.  
    • There's a guy that calls himself Boosted International. You're able to request non standard designs off him too. That cost me $67 delivered so not bhed.. https://boostedintl.com/product/r33-gtst-gts-gtr-ashtray-gaugeholder/  
    • Bugger! just realised you were (NZ) based after reading your thread again and seeing the number plate.. good luck with your move!
    • Could've sold you my brand new 1000cc xpurts, 350z pedal and r35 coils..  Well maybe you need some other bits I can offload. Anyway car looks pretty tidy and and should go well with these "subtle" mods.
    • As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you  will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.
×
×
  • Create New...