Jump to content
SAU Community

Jzx100 White Manual


Recommended Posts

Putting up an EOI for my chaser, this car has been my baby ever since i've had it but i'm wanting to try something different now. Willing to trade for a nice R32 GTR with mods or sell as is.

Specs:

1996 Toyota JZX100 Chaser

Series 1

120xxx kms

factory manual with torsen diff

factory sunroof

factory white paint (artic not pearl)

factory body kit

Clearworld Smoked front indicators

Clear side indicators

Factory HID lights with aftermarket bulbs

Factory boot spoliler removed and holes welded up

Origin CF Boot lip

S2 Tail lights

Greddy front mount Intercooler

Custom intake pipe (removes J pipe)

Racing pod filter

Stock turbo (no shaft play)

NGK Power ignition leads

New twin tip Denso spark plugs

Recently replaced new radiator top tank

Blitz type S boost controller

100,000km service done professionally with all new seals/filters/plugs as required

Only ever use Motul Turbolite engine oil

SAFC Neo tuned by Trent at Status (fuel piggyback computer, the proper way to remove fuel cut and adjust)

AM performance split dump pipe into custom 3" stainless exhaust with muffler and twin blast pipes

Stock R154 Gearbox (fresh Redline shockproof oil)

Exedy heavy duty organic clutch

Sleeved Clutch master cylinder

New slave cylinder

Braided clutch line

Cusco front Strut brace

Solid front castor arms

TRD front/rear swaybars

Do-Luck side braces

Cusco triangle brace

Diff bushes changes to solid TRD items

Chiba pineapples in rear

Tight stock torsen diff (fresh castrol oil)

JIC Majic coilovers 16/14 spring rates

R34 GTR rims (slight rash)

Pirelli Dragon front tyres, Sunny rear

Braided ADR approved brake lines all around

Very clean interior

Pillar mounted Boost gauge

White TRD gearknob

Will come with stock drivers seat (sparco seat not included)

Sony double-din screen headunit with aftermarket amplifier hooked up to stock sub in parcel shelf

Factory floor mounts

No dash lift

Blackwire alarm system with central locking

I have some of the stock parts which will come with the car. It has been tuned to a safe 224rwkw by Trent at Status tuning. The car is religiously serviced every 5,000km and sometimes earlier. The car is washed and cleaned regularly and always cleaned around the door jambs to prevent rusting. It is a great daily driver and cruiser, can even be used for the occasional motorsport. I'm after $20,000 ono. Can contact me on 0415 832 835. Located eastern suburbs of melbourne.

Better quality pictures will come soon.

e44958b4.jpg

4693338b.jpg

IMG_5040-1.jpg

IMG_3230.jpg

http://s99.photobuck...=view¤t=try.mp4

Edited by joeyta22
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...