Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Those Damn White Plugs In The Centre Console.


Little
 Share

Recommended Posts

this is something silly that has always bothered me;

you know how you get the centre console pieces out; and theres the white plugs in the back of the components; and you have to unplug them to get the vents out of the way for example?

I can't do it! both due to age of 12 years being there; and awkward positioning im unsure on how to do it properly.

Im there leaning across the handbrake; one hand holding the vents to stop them from scratching things; and with the other hand with a flatblade pushing it into those grooves/tabs on the plug... there seem to be three. one on the side and one top/bottom. do you have to relase all three at once?

i've wedged the driver in there good trying to force it but that's probably not a good idea.

guidance please! ill stick up a photo in a sec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here's the pics.

I feel supremely stupid for asking how to unplug a plug.

But the truth is i've always struggled with these damned things. i got one out last year but practically destroyed it...

Just need to know the technique. its tricky then you are trying not to damage your car.

post-71190-0-73922800-1305338853_thumb.jpg

post-71190-0-99015900-1305338859_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in the second photo you can see the little push pin, push the connector tight together, push on the little pin in the middle with a small flat screwdriver to get it past the plastic bar, while pulling the plug apart , sounds funny like you need three hands. but with a little practice you can do it without seeing the plug at all.

and don't poke a hole in your hand with the screw driver..lol it should be fairly easy or your doing it wrong.

hope that helps

the pin is white

the bar stopping it is black

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah it should just be that tab in the second picture.

If you have some picks or a really tiny flat head you can push it slightly under the black part from underneath which should hold down the white clip, the grab the plug with both hands and it should come apart easily.

Its kinda hard to explain but once you get it you should never have a problem, unless the plug is to brittle and breaks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies gents.

i found the biggest part was like was said; push them harder together; then lever then they came apart. it was still a tricky awkward unpleasant experience; but

managed to get the job done... i still had to lever the top and bottom on the damn thing additionally to get it out.

sapphire thanks for your help once again; you'd be pleased to know after taking apart the entire centre dash i finished what i was doing and put it all back together; and have done so without making a single mark or scratch anywhere. Seems i could teach a thing or two to some of the "specialists" out there...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not a probelm.

troy and I have been pulling cars apart for more than 20 yrs.

understand your specialists comment well. I have a wholesale business that supplies them. RTFM doesn't seem to apply to some of them and care doesn't apply to the rest of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah it was a little confusing as stream of consciousness. To be clear I’m referring to a failure in a NEO turbo where you have another MAP sensor or something similar teed with the OEM MAP sensor for whatever reason. 
    • Cheers for the feedback. Yeah I've already got the superpro outer adjustable bushes, been in for about a year now. Bought the inner non adjustable superpro bushes last week and planning to install this week/next week. I'm kinda set on going polyurethane path to help stiffen things up a bit and longevity. RE: Is there a good quality aftermarket replacement arm which already has new bushings but also adjustable camber? Rather than the eccentric bolt? Yep, Hardrace and Cusco do them about $450-$500. Rubber bush.  Would have been the easier option.
    • I have this issue with my 08 v36 sedan that has only had 98 in it last 10 years, and Im pretty sure my mechanic puts k&n in when servicing. Could it really be that simple? I've been shopping around to get it fixed, but being so cold in Adelaide, it doesn't make the noise.
    • That's somewhat of a mixed message or confabulation of two different things. Point 1. Yes, it is generally a bad idea to tap anything into the FPR connection because when it goes wrong the lean condition is very destructive. No, it doesn't go wrong often, but when it does, it is usually because the ignorance of the failure mode is combined with sufficient general ignorance that the failure becomes more likely through ineptitude. Thus, it is generally easier to simply say "don't do it" than try to have a nuanced discussion. Point 2. The Neo's boost sensor "failure mode" should you tap into its connection and have that connection fail is not severe at all. But this is where the confabulation occurs, because you made it sound like tapping into the FPR on a Neo was not as bad. There wasn't any need to bring the Neo's boost sensor up as it was lacking in relevance, even with its previous mention in this thread. /pedant mode.
    • A few things to consider: Is there a good quality aftermarket replacement arm which already has new bushings but also adjustable camber? Rather than the eccentric bolt? Many years ago I replaced all my bushings front and rear with superpro polyurethane bushings. Sure they've been fine. But the castor isn't adjustable and is slightly out, the camber adjustment bolts aren't the greatest and most secure way of adjusting them. If I were to do them again I'd probably just replace the arms with aftermarket ones. I used a 5 ton press to get everything out. The biggest pain is having a wide selection of metal pipe pieces that are strong enough to press things out with. The rear hub bushings gave me PTSD.
×
×
  • Create New...