Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

New To Australia And Need Advice On R33 Gtst


Recommended Posts

Hey guys! Just moved to Brisbane and I am super excited to be here and have access to relatively affordable R33 GTST's. I would love a GTR but I think bang for my buck right now the GTST is the way to go. Especially since I am a student. Unfortunately, coming from the States were Skylines are super rare I have no real world hands on knowledge of them. Yes they have crazy potential, yes they are very tuneable and all the other crap video gamers spew out. I don't doubt these with enough money most things are achievable. What I am looking to learn is what to look for in a GTST. What mechanical issues they have and cost. I plan to buy a relatively stock R33 GTST. My budget is in the $8000 range. But I'm worried about not knowing what kind of issues these cars have and their costs. I am third generation automotive machinist. Family business in the states is rebuild engines from all manufacturers. So I have a fair amount of automotive knowledge but when it comes to Skylines no hands on useable knowledge. I must clarify although I have knowledge of all parts and function and modifications and in what combination to suit an application I am not a mechanic. I can rebuild a cylinder head but I wouldn't try pulling the head out of the car especially with no tools here and definitely by myself. Our shop mainly did work for other mechanic shops and dealerships, so we never touched customer cars. That being said I am not some dumb inexperience kid. I am 29years old and my first car at 16 was a 1973 Camaro that took us 2 years to restore and my second car was a 1997 Integra GSR(1.8L DOHC Vtec) not sure what you guys call them here.

What I am looking for is a club or group of other R33 owners here in Brisbane to meet up with over a few beers and talk Skylines. I need ideas of what to look for and costs. Things like "oil leaks" parts that go bad that can lead to major problems and expensive headaches. Also I want to know the cost of upgrades and new parts. Like for instance what would be the best and funniest first mod and its cost to fun factor. Of course my goal for this car is to run a 500hp reliable daily driver. In fact I would really be happy with 400hp. I am not looking to invade Poland or anything just a fun reliable understated rocket. I am fairly sure 400hp would be plenty to get the balls tingling and give my passengers a little stomach flutter. Just a fun modest R33 is all I am after.

I would love to get in touch with a group of you guys and hash out a plan and strategy to follow through on. In fact, if you got a 350hp to 600hp R33 your my guy because your first hand experience and knowledge would be perfect to help you figure out what to do and what not to do. Also, as I am new here I need to find where in Brisbane there are honest, fair priced mechanics that can work on skylines. Also, I would love ya if you could take me for a ride, that would be wicked cool of you.

Please email me if you can help or have a buddy thats willing to help. First round of beers is on me!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to SAU.

You may not get too much help in this forum since this is for the Stagea, not Skyline. Perhaps you could repost in the correct forum & you'll probably get heaps of advice.

Good luck with your hunt for your perfect Skyline.

Cheers, Leon.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot dude. This forum seems kinda confusing to use granted I've only been on it for like 45minutes. I appreciate you to took the time to direct me in the right direction thank you!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you  will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.
    • So about 10 years ago, i bought a brand new Greddy FFP (a legit one), which i have always wanted to put on. Now i know there is no real performance gain, however i have always been a fan of how much it simplifies the engine bay and makes servicing that much easier. The reason i never got round to installing it is that it just seemed more trouble than its worth for basically a stock car.. All mods to date are more suspension/handling/drivetrain, so today i made the decision to start with the more serious (and expensive) part of the mods, the engine hardware.. Today i purchased: Xspurt 1000cc injectors (1/2 height) EFI Hardware fuel rail GFB FX-R fuel pressure regulator necessary fittings to direct mount regulator to rail NZ Wiring trigger kit 82mm Bosch DBW throttle body Taarks 82mm DBW to 3" hose clamp adaptor Outsider Garage 350z pedal kit Franklin Performance R35 GTR coil kit There is still a bit of time before this will make its way into the car, as i want to have a complete cold side assembly, with a sub-harness all good to go. As a note, i have heard the the 82mm Bosch DBW throttle unit is basically a direct bolt on with some very slight mods to the plenum, so will be testing this out.
    • Awesome, thanks for your help👍👍
    • https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/engine/211/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/electric/278/ The hose on the left closest to the firewall is a heater core pipe. It also goes to the oil/coolant heat exchanger and the throttle body. The hose it attaches to is 92400, which is the upper heater core hose. The one to the right of that goes to the lower heater core hose. In the absence of proper photos at each step showing how everything is laid out from the factory the EPC is as good as it gets.
    • Hi All I’m Rene, based in Hamilton NZ and am the owner of a silver 1996 R33 coupe. I bought the car in August 2009 and I am the first owner in NZ. When I first purchased the car, it was a bone stock gts25t automatic with approximately 75,000kms on the clock. From memory I paid about $8,600 from the dealer:   Mod History So over the years I have done a few modifications. The first real mod I did was wheels (on stock shocks) and tints: Now this was done prior to finding out about SAU/SDU, meaning I had no understanding about things like fitment, so was rolling round in 4x4 spec for some time.. Eventually I became a bit more educated (thanks to the forums) and started to do things a bit better. Rather than write a novel of the last 13 years of ownership, I thought I’d just add the list of mods: Exedy lightweight flywheel Exedy full face organic clutch Braided clutch line Adjustable whiteline swaybars (front and rear) Znoelli dimple drilled and slotted brakes with performance pads (front and rear) Braided brake lines (front and rear) BC Gold adjustable suspension Hicas lock bar Tomei upgraded fuel pump Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit 3” exhaust from turbo back, with 3” bellmouth dump R34 OP6 turbo Mishimoto aluminium radiator ATP catch can and speedflow fittings 17x10r and 17x9f wheels with Falken fk452 all round Innovate mtx range gauges (oil, wideband and boost)  Funnily enough, this list was actually composed to add to the classified to sell it, however I just can’t bring myself to do it. Did you say M3 @Dose Pipe Sutututu? Anyway, this brings us to the current day The car now has 105,000ks and is barely used as I just don’t have time and it doesn’t really suit being my daily (as I need something more suitable to visit construction sites). I don’t think I have even driven it in the past 12 months.. Build Direction The plan here is to go for a bit of an OEM+ type vibe, so nothing too extreme. I am also planning to modernise a lot of the vehicle with things like new ECU (decided on Haltech), DBW, cruise control etc. The power will eventually get increased with an end goal of around 280-330kw. I am keen to get a bit more motivation and actually get this car build back up and going again. It may not be the fastest build, but I’ll get there eventually! And then I’m less likely to try sell it..
  • Create New...