Jump to content
SAU Community

Race R35 Build


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 217
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hello bigmikespec - You might want to ask GT Auto about the head work as they are available from them. Maybe send a PM as they might not want to post that information. I know they have full CNC packages for RB26 SR20 4G63 2JZ etc etc.

Cheers

Marty

Edited by Martin HKS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No there is no welding of the chamber and it's no larger than stock (well they have been CC'd and matched in volume so close enough to stock size). Because this job has to be out the door so quick for GT Auto's project we are not going to town on them. We have some more coming to be cut up and developed like the rest of the head's available that we do.

To all those out there these heads are pretty good in stock form from Nissan. It's not like the 2JZ head where we weld up the exhaust runners and make our own for better flow or the Ford BA/BF/FG Turbo 6cyl where the chamber needs to be changed with much larger seats and valves to make a decent product.

Anyway back to the project. We found out some interesting news today about the factory computer system and how it slips the clutch if you make too much torque/boost etc as a failsafe. No good for our project so we have been working with HKS Japan and have a solution using the F-Con V-Pro. I'm not sure how the other cars go with this problem and the Cobb Tuning but we have it sorted.

You can see HKS TV for some cool updates: http://www.hks-tv.com/watch/?watch=158&tabsnm=2

Cheers

Marty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No there is no welding of the chamber and it's no larger than stock (well they have been CC'd and matched in volume so close enough to stock size). Because this job has to be out the door so quick for GT Auto's project we are not going to town on them. We have some more coming to be cut up and developed like the rest of the head's available that we do.

So who is doing the head work then? You or GT Auto?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No there is no welding of the chamber and it's no larger than stock (well they have been CC'd and matched in volume so close enough to stock size). Because this job has to be out the door so quick for GT Auto's project we are not going to town on them. We have some more coming to be cut up and developed like the rest of the head's available that we do.

To all those out there these heads are pretty good in stock form from Nissan. It's not like the 2JZ head where we weld up the exhaust runners and make our own for better flow or the Ford BA/BF/FG Turbo 6cyl where the chamber needs to be changed with much larger seats and valves to make a decent product.

Anyway back to the project. We found out some interesting news today about the factory computer system and how it slips the clutch if you make too much torque/boost etc as a failsafe. No good for our project so we have been working with HKS Japan and have a solution using the F-Con V-Pro. I'm not sure how the other cars go with this problem and the Cobb Tuning but we have it sorted.

You can see HKS TV for some cool updates: http://www.hks-tv.co...ch=158&tabsnm=2

Cheers

Marty

I was out at dinner last week with one mate of mine who is one of HKS's chief mechanics and he was saying that on test tuning on the dyno on the Black 35 they ramped the boost up and were able to get 1000ps out of the Black 35 but were getting major slip out of the tranny/clutch and thus have kept power at 900ps but have been working on sorting this since HKS Premium day.

Seeing your car is a full race spec build it will be interesting to see the difference on how it handles on the circuit compared to the Black HKS 35 as that was supposed to be a bloody handfull to drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the ID 2000's are becoming the injector of choice for E85 big power cars.

Just read the Speed Hunters article followed by the comments, it's no wonder americans get stereotyped as "Stupid & Ignorant"

Edited by «Cyph3r»
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...