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I went into Sleeka Spares a few weeks ago to pick up a HICAS lock bar kit, which includes the bits and pieces for blocking off the hydraulic lines. I'm not sure if it was meant for S13/Cefiro specifically, it was $140, I'm yet to install it though.

I'm actually going there in a few minutes to pick up some A31 Jap novelty plates, will ask them about it for you and let you know later today.

All good man. cheers.

a problem occured yesturday.

on the way to work i stopped at a servo to buy breakfast. (big can of v and a pack of smokes) and when i got back into the car it wouldnt start.

just turned over really quickly. it eventualy cranked into life. but didnt seem happy about it.

got to work parked up. all good.

when i went to leave it wouldnt start at all.

just cranks over really fast.. like it did in the mornin.

it seems like its been gettin harder to start for the last couple weeks now but i hadnt really noticed it till today.

any ideas?

haha yeah he was a decent dude. cant really see it in the pics. but the last meter or so of the flat bed was actually hinged. so it made it on a much flatter incline. otherwise no way in hell the laurel would have made it up onto that truck :P

its at boostworx currently. shaun says i should hear from him this mornin sometime...

fingers crossed its nothin major/expsensive.

minor update.

just rang boost worx.

apparently it now runs... sounds like it should be good.. except they arent actually sure why it stopped work..

or why it now works again for that matter..

apparently the fuel pump isnt building fuel pressure very quickly.

and the ignitor seems to have had a bit of a cry but has now gotten over it.. odd because i changed it yesturday for an apparent known workin one and no difference.

they cleaned up a few terminals and plugs and sensors. took it for a drive and apparently ran sweet other then the stutter. which they diagnosed as a dirty afm so cleaned it and apparently runs sweet now.

they are keepin it for a bit longer to do a few more tests on it. so should get it back tonight.

fingers crossed

so yeah havent really had much of a chance to do anythin with my car lately.

mainly because ive been workin on this

DSCF1549.jpg

this is my mate lukes car.

some people might remember it from when luke fink owned it.

finally after about 6 weeks of flat out work on this thing is got its first drive last night after 6 months of bein f**ked.

just in time for his wedding in october in which both out laurels will be the wedding cars.

cant f**kin wait.

heres a vid of its first drive

th_DSCF1557.jpg

hey guys when i put this lock bar in i want to replace the hicas arms at the same time.

just to make sure the ball joints and stuff are all good.

anyone know a part number for the tie rods in the hicas rears? or if they are the same as anythin?

another question.

i picked up a vg30 turbo yesturday. and im just wondering if i have to change the oil and water lines on my laurel?

i know on my hr31 i had to as it was a redtop and i put a silvertop turbo on it.

but yeah not sure is the c33 silvertops run the same lines as r32.

ive been told that c33/a31 use a redtop turbo from factory?

decided it was time to turn the boost up on saturday. so with out test driving i just screwed the thing down on the turbo tech.

then a little later took it for a drive.

slowly brought up the revs at about 1/3 throttle and in 2nd at about 4k rpm i watched the boost gauge rocket to over 20 psi......

and when i backed off it made this strange woooosh noise. similar to like a vent atmo bov... but i dont have one haha.

anyways. babied it to my destination then wound the boost back down. another test run. 10psi.. aww stock...

eventually got it to sit on 15psi. happy with that got new turbo waitin so itll be ok haha. makes some ah.... funny noises.

and at full boost it does the wooosh thing instead of flutter hahaha.

oh also got the laurel tinted on saturday and fitted up my new chrome passenger headlight and corner light.

coz mine had grey ones on the passenger side for some reason..

pics

DSCF1615.jpg

DSCF1614.jpg

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As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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