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My C33 Laurel


DannyC33
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Ok so,

couple months back some moron thought itd be a great idea to crash into my 31.

this was the result.

c172184f.jpg

basically I was going to fix it but after running around finding parts, I send it to all type crash

who quoted me around $4k plus panels, and said that they would need to straighten both of the

chassis rails, and the passenger side strut tower.

They then said that even after that it'd most likely not drive straight anyway.

That plus the fact that there was a substantial amount of rust in the passenger side floor made my decision to strip it pretty easy.

So after stripping it out and getting some money together I messaged an old mate from school

and found out that he still had his c33, and funnily enough had just decided to sell it.

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its basically stock.

when I got it, it had some aids 16" wheels

the worlds oldest sony head unit which constantly said it was a failure

a cat back exhaust

front bar cut up for a front mount.

and rsr front and rear strut braces.

oh and its auto

I've only had it a week and already spent a bit on it.

put the volks from the coupe on it. (only untill I get my new wheels)

bought a hybrid fmic kit from my mate MTQ

got a set of late model tail lights

boost tap

and a couple little things.

the stainless turbo back exhaust from the coupe is goin to be modified to fit the laurel.

and I have some coil overs coming with the wheels.

270169_10150320982857658_595417657_9328088_1640353_n.jpg

basic plans will be much the same as the coupe

5 stud conversion

r33 brakes

manual conversion

coil overs

wheels

exhaust

as comfortable as it is currently im gonna put a pair of brides in it.

and a decent stereo.

Ill update as I get more parts or just nice pics.

pics

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work euroline dh 18x9 +21 and 18x10+18 hoping these will fit without to much gaurd love required haha.

parts list so far includes

brand new emotions coil overs from my mate matt (angry industries)

work eurolines

r33 brakes front and rear

with rda slotted rotors and ebc green pads front n rear

5 stud hub conversion

pair of recaro seat rails.

momo 4 spoke steering wheel

new front bar (because the one on the car is butchered by previous owner haha)

goin to modify the stainless turbo back exhaust off my hr31 coupe in the next few weeks.

got a set of late model tail lights and the garnish to suit

cheers

Danny

Edited by DannyC33
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niiice , looks like a straight tidy one (rare!) , You'll need to do some work on those rear guards to fit 10+ 18 , i had 9.5 +18~19 (with 225 tyres) on my old one , i ended up porta powering the back section of the guard to make them fit :ph34r:

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Haha yeah and i pick it up cheap to.

yeah im thinkin im gonna have to do something with the rear guards. not keen on it but might have to..

what do you mean by porta power??? haha. im assuming a simple roll with a proper gaurd roller isnt gonna be enough?

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Haha yeah and i pick it up cheap to.

yeah im thinkin im gonna have to do something with the rear guards. not keen on it but might have to..

what do you mean by porta power??? haha. im assuming a simple roll with a proper gaurd roller isnt gonna be enough?

The rim used to touch where the rear bar bolts up even with it folded up , i didn't prta it far , probably 3cm .pic of where the rim sat (sorry for pic in your thread) (edit : F**k i miss that car)

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Edited by toffy
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ook that's not to bad. i was expecting big flared guards Haha.

your laurel looks rad man. hopefully mine will look as tough.

im hopefully gonna be able to fit 235 all round but not sure.

my new front bar arrived today so ill get onto fitting it up this weekend.

cheers for compliments guys. ill get pics as i get stuff done.

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aalso what is that front lip on your laurel?

been lookin for a nice lip kit

Yeah mate , club s front lip , i paid heaps for it from j land (along with front window , rear window spoiler , s2 tail lights etc) , if i were to do it again i'd be looking into getting stuff from nz , muuuuuuch cheaper i would predict!

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so this saturday with the help of a few mates and the use of my mates shed we starting the laurels make over.

last picture of the laurel bein a boring auto 4x4

2011-08-20153056.jpg

fitment on rear... tire is hard up against rear bar.. been told traction arms will fix this?

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luke cutting the dust shield so that the r33 discs would fit.

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f**king autospastic!!!

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at this point we ran into some issues. namely this

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snapped one of the flywheel bolts.. was strange it cracked and started to undo then just got tight and snapped with little pressure.

$90 and 2 days later (this happened at 8 pm saturday night and the soonest i could get someone out to fix it was monday night at 7)

its currently still sittin on jack stands as im now struggling with the f**kin auto spigot bush haha. cant get the bastard out for the life of me

so decided to call it a night and get back into it tonight when im not pissed off haha.

oh and had to say good bye to the auto trans.

yes thats 3rd gear haha.

th_video-2011-08-20-15-32-21.jpg

click this. its a vid

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any advice on makin the handbrake fit?

gonna do the hand brake tonight and i cant see any mountin bolts or even where the cable is ment to run....

or is it just a case of drill and bolt and cut? and hope shit fits?

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if you've removed the atuo one you need r32 handbrake lever and the mount that is spot welded to the r32 body, drill out the spot welds on the r32 . drill out the spot welds for the auto h/b lever release, the auto a31/c33 body has markings of how the manual cable hole and cable mount bolt holes should be, drill out the bolt holes then for the cable hole i'd say a hole with a big drill that covers one hole each end so u can use a metal jigsaw/ hack saw to cut the rest out.

note: when you mount the h/b lever be it drill and bolt or weld, mock it up with the center consel and with the boot fitted as i did mine abit off center which means i cant mount the clip for the boot

you have two options use the auto 'U' joiner handbrake cable and the single cable off the handbrake lever ( may have to grind the adapter the splits into the 2 cables off the h/b lever end.

or bin the auto 'U' joiner, use the cables that come off the said adapter that turns 1 line into 2 but you'll have to get a custom longer handbrake lever cable as its too short.

in the long run i should have just linked to the D1NZ site which has it in more detail

Edited by Dan_J
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AAh cheers man. got it sorted tonight. i actually got ceffy cables by the looks because they all joined up nicely.

New problem is the clutch wont disengage. gearbox back off on Saturday. I've had enough of this car already Haha.

Im hoping is the thrust bearing. only thing i can say is that about half of the pedal travel is free play.

Any ideas?

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seems u do, full manual cables from h/b lever to rear hubs?

adjust clutch pedal bolt and bleed clutch lines at the bleed valve and the line joins by loosening the connections.

is the clutch worn/used? main reason you'd have to adjust

also make sure u use the manual spigot bearing

Edited by Dan_J
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ok so after literally an entire week. the laurel is actually back on the ground.

drives great. coilies feel awesome. need to work out a few things with the ride height tho.

and figure out why my wheel bearings are gettin hot. im hopin its because they are new and are just not loosened up yet...

but anyways. we had used the wrong thrust bearing so saturday pulled the box back out and swapped it over.

still need to rebleed the clutch and brakes as they are a little soft.

but other then that its awesome.... f**kin hard to get in and out of tho haha.

pics

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