Jump to content
SAU Community

My C33 Laurel


DannyC33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok so now that ive got the drivetrain and stuff sorted.

ive been wanting to build a motor for a while and now im having issues deciding on what to do.

im only lookin for about 220rwkw.

so not really enough to justify doin an engine swap to a 25 or anythin. although id love to have a 26 in there. its just not worth it.

so i was plannin on stroking out an rb20 to put into my hr31. but after further research what i was plannin on doin it gonna be pointless.

20 block std, 25 crank and rods. and 20 pistons std. would give me f**k all extra capacity. and just cause clearance issues.

so what do people recommend in the way of buildin a 20.

i dont need to do anythin to the silvertop thats in the car currently. but i just want to put a fresh motor in so that i know i wont have to pull it out any time soon because its broken.

i was thinkin higher comp pistons, cams and a 2871r.

ideas/opinions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can get 220 on a rb20 with stock internals, may need metal head gasket to cope and too much effort with rb22/24 unless you like the stuffing around and not dosh

you'll also need a r32 ecu for tuning/ remap as the a31/c33 one is a lil out dated, has a heart beat of lean mixture ratio's here and there

kriss pulls 200kw

know of another ceffy with a rb20 thats making 220 at least so its doable

sau search for

rb oil control

oil pump

as stated metal head gasket ( or just see how long it lasts?)

note: ^ thats just for keeping it healthy no power gains

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you like building motors for fun, I'd just do the bolt on mods. I know of half a dozen rb20 personally that are un opened stock motors, running between 200 and 240rwkw. One of them was at that power, in a drift car for around 2 years, and was still running when he changed to a 26. Just get yours checked, comp, leakdown, if its healthy, start leaning on it. Check the rb20 power thread in forced induction section for some ideas. Peace.

Edited by CEF33Y
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ah cheers man will check it out..

its not that i like building motors for fun. ive just always wanted to build a motor haha..

finally got around to fittin my new front bar up.

can anyone tell me why the original bar on my car didnt have the side mount vent?

the bar i have on now does and seems a little chunkier. and deffinately didnt have to cut half as much out of it to fit the bar on with the cooler.

pics later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

new bar fitted and clear indicators.

just need to get some clear side repeaters and itll be sweet.

2011-09-05110553.jpg

also put my turbo tech boost controller in. havent played with the boost yet. but probs gonna cram atleast 15psi through it haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey got a question for all you rb20 guys out there..

My laurel (and my coupe did it to for that matter) seems to have a slight hesitation. i did some reading yesturday and found that most people seem to think its the cold start doin its rich and retard thing.

how ever this mornin i let my car idle for about 20 mins and made sure it was at full operatin temp before i even backed outta the drive way and it still did it.

basically what it is is driving along in any gear just cruising.

say the revs are bein held at 2500 rpm. constant throttle imput.

vac/boost gauge readyin at between 15-20 in the vac side.

all of a sudden exhaust not changes (gets deeper) vac gauge goes closer to neutral manifold pressure ie between 5-10 in the vac

and the car seems to lose power.

as if its been put under some sort of strain.

if i keep my throttle at the same point itll go away after anywhere from 5-45 seconds sometimes it just doesnt unless i put my foot down.

now when i had my r31 coupe id replaced just about every electrical thing i could

afm

cas

ignitor

converted to au falcon coil and leads

had the ecu nistuned

tps

aac

coolant temp sensor

o2 sensor

had it tuned about 5 times

and never found it.

never once outta the 5 times i had it on the dyno did it ever present the problem to the guy on the dyno (for reference i have the car tuned at boostworx by shaun)

anyone got any ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

finally fitted up the eurolines today

2011-09-11173313.jpg

2011-09-11151733.jpg

2011-09-11173342.jpg

and along with it my adjustable traction and camber arms

2011-09-11140409.jpg

unfortunately i had to raise the car up to fit them, and it looks like itll have to go up abit higher :(

still scrubs slightly over bumps and fairly badly when Im turning... f**kin hicas!!

gotta get a lock bar asap.

will get some better pictures tomorrow when Ive washed it and got more light to play with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plugged in r32 ecu seems to run smoother and i dont get the 1-2k hunting on idle like i did before.

will see if i can compare the a31 vs r32 ecu power outputs when i go for the another run

so the main scrubbing on the rear is the rear bar ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

r32 ecu plugs in??? i thought they had different plugs? haha. hmmm

yeah mine hunts fairly badly from time to time on idle.

so you are runnin an r32 ecu yeah?

yeah mainly scrubbin on rear bar i believe. just not keen on cuttin it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine plugs in fine, unless my s2/3 ecu plug is different to the s1 ecu plug, but none the less get one and plug it in.

yea hunting used to be so random on mine.

was running it on skids too and engine isn't dead so safe bet it works fine

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...