Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I have an R33 Gts-t with a Neo4 rb25det in it from an r34gt-t and was wondering what version of ecu (powerfc/-safc) would i have to get for my car, its probly an easy answer but I'd rather know than make a mistake. Also i was reading somewhere that the neo4 gt-t has solid cam lifters instead of hydraulic, is this true?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37869-neo4-rb25det-questions/
Share on other sites

What's the good and bad of solid lifters??

Advantages?

From what I know

Good:

- They can open the valve faster allowing more lift and duration.

- They are lighter

- They permit greater oil restriction to the lifters allowing more oil to be dedicated to the main bearings

Bad:

- Need adjustment periodically

- Noiser

* I could be totally incorrect though :slap:

So, how exactly do I find out what parts will suit my motor because alot of places dont list r34gt-t parts as they're not as common as other skylines. So rb26 cams will fit, thats a bonus, will rb26 adjustable cam gears fit aswell? Any info i can find out what parts will go on will be great before i buy something that wont work on it.. :)

Cheers, mat.

Don't bother with adjustable cam gears for the NEO6. Although they will fit, I spent $600 on installing and tuning on a dyno and I recieved zero difference.

The cam gears from any RB engine will fit.

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...