Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A few weeks back I pulled the tranny out to inspect a strange feeling when presseing on the clutch pedal. i found the pivot ball snapped near the tranny casing but still attached to the clutch fork. i have replaced with a nismo unit as well as the clutch slave cylinder. Now that my system is bleaded and the tranny is back on I get clutch slippage at verry low rpm and with no boost at all. also when i bleed the clutch , after releasing the extra air from the slave pussing the fork the clutch pedal stays stuck to the floor and i have to pull it back with my foot. The clutch also engages verry high but has a good smooth feel.

Do you guys think that the clutch disc / pressure plate got un-even when the pilot ball went bad ?!

Any info or tips would be great!!

Thanks

Adjust the pushrod on the master cylinder. It has been adjusted over time to compensate for either a worn out clutch or the broken pivot ball

Thanks for the fast reply! do you mean the push rod from the pedal to the master Cyl !? Will i need to re-bleed the system after ?

I also forgot there could be another issue and that is if you have installed the wrong pivot ball or it's too long. You will actually hold the bearing against the clutch which could engage it. Then no matter how much you adjust that pushrod it won't fix it. R32 and R33 pivot balls are different and possibly S1 R33 is different to S2 but I have never checked so you'll have to do your own research on that

I also forgot there could be another issue and that is if you have installed the wrong pivot ball or it's too long. You will actually hold the bearing against the clutch which could engage it. Then no matter how much you adjust that pushrod it won't fix it. R32 and R33 pivot balls are different and possibly S1 R33 is different to S2 but I have never checked so you'll have to do your own research on that

the pivot ball was the same lenght / size as the old one, I compaired both pivot ball and slave cyl befor changing them so sure those are okay ! I will take a look at the master cyl ajustment when i get at the shop in the morning and keep you posted!

Thanks again

Adjust the pushrod on the master cylinder. It has been adjusted over time to compensate for either a worn out clutch or the broken pivot ball

So i got the the garage this morning and I noticed that my ajustement to the master cyl was set back as far as it would go, So then I started to think that if the clutch is still slipping then the slave is not pulling back enought. Some how the clutch slave Cyl push rod was a bit to long !? got one from a HCR32 in the nismo ECR33 one and now its gripping hard and the clutch is not engaging near the dash any more :P

Hope this can help someone that is having the same probleme :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...