Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been in the process of upgrading the whole exhaust

removed the turbos and all the gear to replace the dump pipes,

Reassembled everything, then disconnected the battery to tack a few parts of the exhaust underneath the car with a TIG.

Now its all going, only thing changed is the exhaust(all of it), but the engine is running richer than ever before, like 13.0:1 @2000rpm in the shed, and as you back off to get closer to idle, it goes off the scales rich and obviously dies.>_<

Looked at AFM voltages, they are;

ENGINE NOT RUNNING

AFM-1 --- 0.44

AFM-2 --- 0.50

ENGINE @ 1500rpm

AFM-1 --- 1.60

AFM-2 --- 0.75

I removed the afm's cleaned them out and removed the cover from the top, checked the solder joins, they look good, they were new AFM's not long ago..

reassembled and checked again,

same results,

removed AFM's and swapped top one for bottom,

same results, and the voltages stay as is/similar.

I'll take a video and see if that helps too

any help appreciated

Edited by blue_vl_t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383599-strange-mapping-problem/
Share on other sites

Intake leak will cause the car to run rich as hell, you have measured air coming in and being given fuel for but lost before it gets to the engine. I forgot one tiny vacuum hose, it was enough to make my car idle with black smoke coming from the back. Check every single silicone connector, hose, seal, everything which helps the air stay in the intake.

Edited by SargeRX8

well i had looked a few times,

but i shoved some air in the intake this time and blocked the other, and what do you know, one air leak, i'll fix that, hopefully its all the problem is.

not sure why i always think a problem is something more complicated......

fixed the intake leak, but its running just as bad, like so bad i cant keep it running unless using 1500+rpm, took it for a drive around the block, stalled like 4 times, af mixtures are just going crazy, all over the place.

it will most likely be something simple, a matter of finding it....

ecu is PFC pro, z32 afm's

o2 sensors are removed and bunged up, also turned off on the PFC.

The wiring to the rear AFM is only just long enough to reach, so wouldn't reach the front one.

Im just making up some caps for where the afm connect to the pipework, see if there is anymore leaks, pressurize the system

Just pressurized the system with 5-10psi, looped the rocker cover breathers together, so it pressurized the whole motor, sump and all, its dead silent, no leaks, until the dipstick pops out, lol

so intake leaks, none.

I'll have to see about metering out the afm cables to the ECU, see what i come up with.

I recently had a similar problem with a Z32 that was meant to work..

I have a strange suspicion the body earth for that one is sensitive and may give a crazy effect... Mine was idling at 3.7v, yet i suspect the AFM will work fine when put into a known working case (will test tomorrow).

when using map tracer, in the shed, free revving the engine, if you hold the rpm at 2000rpm and gradually lift the throttle from the floor, the below lovely ms paint diagram shows approximately the path of the map tracer, ie which cells are being used.

IGNMapdatalogitbasemap.jpg

Edited by blue_vl_t

blow off valves hooked up and working?

though you did pressurize the intake...

well, i haven't touched them, the car was running fine about a week ago, just removed exhaust side and reassemble with new exhaust.

as you said, pressurized intake, nothing was leaking......

Stock gtr BOV's

Edited by blue_vl_t

a prize.......

i'll take you for a spin, you live close by to Kalgoorlie, lol

I actually could not find anything wrong with the wiring, and i'm an electrician.

but the plugs on the r32/r33 model is quite crap in design, you have to push the plug in further the the bolt will pull it in.

but i recon it is was just a matter of unplug the ecu and plug it in, kinda thing. lol

I do think i will have to install another muffler, the 4" is kinda loud, i am only able to find the Magnaflow ones off the shelf, anyone know if they will do much, or someone to build one custom etc??

it should do, but my crappy superwizz turboteh bleed valve has a stripped thread, loose connection, which is probably why it was running more boost than i thought it was, i removed it, and its now running a massive 12psi, woo hoo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...