Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388552-gtst-engine-removal/
Share on other sites

I don't imagine it would be too difficult mate

Remove gearbox, disconnect exhaust, plumbing, wiring loom, fuel lines, coolant hoses and radiator for more room

Remove the nuts from the engine mount studs and pull it out :)...

I'm sure there's a couple of other little things but that's the most of it

Drain all the fluids first too ;) except clutch and brake of course

Do a GTR, now that's a pain in the ar$e lol

ok im looking for help not smart arse comments, yes i could take it to the shop im not retarded. the idea is A. so i save some money! and B. i can do with the experience of learning as most of you guys complain " oh the new guys to imports dont even know a there way around a car they just take it to a mechanic and say make my car fast" well herei am trying to learn how to do it myself. right o

I don't imagine it would be too difficult mate

Remove gearbox, disconnect exhaust, plumbing, wiring loom, fuel lines, coolant hoses and radiator for more room

Remove the nuts from the engine mount studs and pull it out :)...

I'm sure there's a couple of other little things but that's the most of it

Drain all the fluids first too ;) except clutch and brake of course

Do a GTR, now that's a pain in the ar$e lol

that last comment wasnt directed to u mate, thanks for the help

maybe you can also help yourself though by doing some research first though...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/41121-removing-a-gtr-enginegearbox-plus-more/page__p__843424__hl__engine__fromsearch__1#entry843424

yep its for a gtr but it should still be fairly similar

pretty straight forward, unplug everything wiring loom related, remove intake piping/intercooler/vac lines/radiator/clutchfan or thermos, unbolt and tie out of the way AC compressor and power steering pump, remove gearbox bolts (ones up the top are dream boats), attach engine crane, undo engine mounts from cross member, check you have everything free/clear/unplugged and remove it keep in mind the engine must come forward to get the input shaft from the gearbox out of the clutch.

maybe you can also help yourself though by doing some research first though...

http://www.skylinesa...__1#entry843424

yep its for a gtr but it should still be fairly similar

i have been searching all day all i can find is gtr manuals. thats why i posted here,

I have just rebuilt my engine and i couldnt find a written procedurethis is what i did.

Disconnect battery Remove Exhaust dump pipe to tail pipe drop engine coolant and remove radiator

Remove plastic around shifter and remove shifter cover & remove g/stick

Disconect neutual and reverse switch connections also remove clutch slave cylinder and tape it togeather so it doesnt leak zip tie it out of the way

Undo tailshaft but dont remove Jack and support rear of engine so it doesnt hit the steering rack get it a low as you can as i had to use very long extension bars to get to the bellhousing bolts remove transmission with tailshaft connected so not to loose oil. Also keep engine supported.

Disconnect Engine wiring loom oil switch steering switch air cond wire. Undo heater hoses turbo to air filter brake booster vac hoses fuel lines disconnect pwr steering res and drain

Unbolt and remove pwr steering pump and braket. Also unbolt air cond pump and bracke zip tie out of the way.

Undo engine mount nuts and remove engine

refit engine in revese order

I hope i havnt forgotten anything

ote name='riley' timestamp='1326791310' post='6192287']

does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it.

thanks

Forgot on my last post

ALSO TAKE A COUPLE OF ENGINE BAY PHOTOS BEFORE YOU START THAT WAY YOU HAVE A REFERENCE FOR INSTALLING THE ENGINE AGAIN

does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it.

thanks

i find pulling the box out with the motor is much faster. unless you have a hoist with rattle gun and massive extensions to undo gearbox bolts.

mines a rb2530 with custom mounts and getting the the gearbox bolts are some what impossible.

Yep I pulled mine out with the box on.

i find pulling the box out with the motor is much faster. unless you have a hoist with rattle gun and massive extensions to undo gearbox bolts.

mines a rb2530 with custom mounts and getting the the gearbox bolts are some what impossible.

The ones i hae done we pulled them with the box attatched. Much faster :) Just dont forget the clutch line :)

But as suggested its the same as every other engine. Unplug plugs, un-do hoses.

If its a stock turbo, then removing the turbo and dump pipe in one piece is highly recommended :) SO much easier than undoing and doing up those assf**k dump pipe bolts lol. It can be done.

as said leave the gearbox attached. leave p/s, air con and clutch slave all attached to their lines and unbolt them from motor/box so you dont have to deal with any of the fluids. make sure you pull it out somewhere with plenty of height clearance as you'll need to get a fair bit of angle to get the box out aswell.

best bet for getting it done quickly would be to find someone on here local to you and pay them with beer to give you some guidanc. once you know what your doing you can go from complete running car to motor on the ground with box off in around 2 hours working at a steady pace, rushing just leads to losing skin....

Edited by JonnoHR31

i loved my SR20 use to have the motor & box out within 1 1/2 hours. when i changed the clutch i use to rip the motor with box out together done in like 5 hours and driving LOL

the RB does take longer but once you do it a couple of times it gets faster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...