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Pft shh 89

Good Timing Belt

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Pretty much self explanatory I think. Timing belt is well overdue, and I would like to know what brands I should be looking at for a quality belt/kit. Found a few on ebay. What are people's thoughts?

NISMO with water pump: (price looks a bit steep to me though) $490

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-TIMING-BELT-SERVICE-KIT-100-000KM-SKYLINE-GTR-CEFIRO-STAGEA-RB25-RB26-/220893533016?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336e47d358

Bando/NSK?? $170

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-TIMING-BELT-KIT-SKYLINE-GTR-STAGEA-CEFIRO-LAUREL-RB20-RB25DET-RB26DETT-/220872048960?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336d000140

Greddy/Trust $310

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GREDDY-TRUST-TIMING-BELT-KIT-SKYLINE-GTR-STAGEA-CEFIRO-LAUREL-RB20-RB25-RB26DETT-/220865648772?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336c9e5884

or should I go to nissan dealer directly and get a genuine kit??

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I put a Gates Racing belt in my R33. It's a little noisy (might be over tightened) but works well

Got it in a kit from kudos motorsport

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-100000km-service-kit-water-pump-timing-belt-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25t-rb25det-p-558.html

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OEM timing belt is fine, The gates belts have the tendency with the blue plastic coloured coating to flake off after time which gets under the timing belt and causes belt slip. The OEM belt is good for 700hp + proven from my understanding, Gates belts are a bastard to get on and off.

OEM water pump is also fine if your really concerned i purchased a N1 water pump for my RS four S which is currently in it now with new NSK bearings, I believe that is Nissan's OEM bearings.

This is the kit you will be needing Jeremy.. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-100000km-service-kit-water-pump-timing-belt-nissan-skyline-r34-25gtt-rb25det-neo-p-91.html

Edited by hks33

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+1 OEM, why stick a whining belt on your car?

ebay seller performancenissan is hard to beat for a full OEM 100k service kit.

'cos it looks fully sikker when u got klear coverz. Nooooo! :)

+2 Gates - I went for the whiney racing belt. The whine is almost gone after 20,000k's and i liked it anyway ( something wrong with me ?) . Why not get a stronger/higher temp belt for same money as a OEM ?

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'cos it looks fully sikker when u got klear coverz. Nooooo! :)

+2 Gates - I went for the whiney racing belt. The whine is almost gone after 20,000k's and i liked it anyway ( something wrong with me ?) . Why not get a stronger/higher temp belt for same money as a OEM ?

Because the OEM belts aren't as prone to slippage as opposed to the OEM belt, They are good for 700hp + so unless your making huge power figures i would not worry.

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Because the OEM belts aren't as prone to slippage as opposed to the OEM belt, They are good for 700hp + so unless your making huge power figures i would not worry.

How can you rate a timing belt for horsepower? Tensile strength; Yes. Horsepower; Nope.

The only things that will stress a belt are; heavier than stock valve springs, or cams with more aggressive opening ramps. The power that the engine produces is irrelevant to the belt.

The slippage that you speak of; where does this happen on synchronous belt? If the belt "slips" it has teeth missing; no other way it can slip. It's not a bloody fan belt.

If the belt jumps a tooth; it isn't tensioned correctly; or has stretched, and broken the internal cords, and is about to fail catastrophically.

IMO, there's absolutely nothing wrong with OEM belts, most of what you're fed on "High Perfomance" belt is marketing hype.

Edited by Daleo

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How can you rate a timing belt for horsepower? Tensile strength; Yes. Horsepower; Nope.

The only things that will stress a belt are; heavier than stock valve springs, or cams with more aggressive opening ramps. The power that the engine produces is irrelevant to the belt.

The slippage that you speak of; where does this happen on synchronous belt? If the belt "slips" it has teeth missing; no other way it can slip. It's not a bloody fan belt.

If the belt jumps a tooth; it isn't tensioned correctly; or has stretched, and broken the internal cords, and is about to fail catastrophically.

Easy... Guys interstate and overseas are making 700hp+ with OEM belts, Speak to "Ashley Hobson" at classic performance dyno tune works on RB's all day in and out and he's seen everything, Read it even here myself on SAU so it must be saying something.

Been told from my sources as well its not just the one place I've heard it from and i can definitely see some logic behind that.

Edited by hks33

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Forgot to mention the blue coating causes the cam gears to glaze over hence the belt slipping.

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Easy... Guys interstate and overseas are making 700hp+ with OEM belts, Speak to "Ashley Hobson" at classic performance dyno tune works on RB's all day in and out and he's seen everything, Read it even here myself on SAU so it must be saying something.

Been told from my sources as well its not just the one place I've heard it from and i can definitely see some logic behind that.

I'm not arguing that an OEM belt can't support 700HP; I'm saying that the timing belt doesn't carry that horsepower. Rating the belt for horsepower is irrelevant. The crank pulls on the belt, which turns the cams; not the other way around.

We seem to be on the same page with the OEM belt strength situation.thumbsup.gif

Say you had a hypothetical GTR producing 500HP, and you change to a larger turbo set up; the car now produce 700hp; you haven't changed the rev limit or the cams; only tuning and turbos.

The belt is not under any more stress than it was when the engine produced 500hp.

The power of the engine isn't dictated by the belt; nor the life or strength of the belt dictated by the engine power.

Edited by Daleo

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your right Dale ,horsepower doesn`t mean diderly shit, all comes down to the tension on the belt, pulley condition , tentioner alignment and age of the belt. I bought a couple of Japanese belts of Ebay,good quality and reasonably priced, cant see any reason to change the water pump because it was perfect. Guess it depends if you do your own work or pay someone to rip you off. did the whole job in under 2 hours, amazing how quiet it is now though. one thing to remember , not all belts have the same profile,hence the whyne? which means incorect fit and probable failure.

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ok thanks guys. will probs go the kit through kudos. is there anything special i need to know? other than removing all old water pump gasket to get good seal and not turning any parts of the motor while the belt is off. and is there any special tools i would need? apart from the new gasket goo, and a socket set?

Edit: speaking of which what is the best way to get the old seal off??

Edited by Pft shh 89

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ok thanks guys. will probs go the kit through kudos. is there anything special i need to know? other than removing all old water pump gasket to get good seal and not turning any parts of the motor while the belt is off. and is there any special tools i would need? apart from the new gasket goo, and a socket set?

Edit: speaking of which what is the best way to get the old seal off??

You'll need a puller for the harmonic balancer.

Even if you buy a super duper twice as expensive belt its still going to be changed at 100,000km anyway.

There's a full how to in the DIY sticky at the top:

http://www.skylinesa...y-new-cam-belt/

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the stanley harmonic balancer puller that supercheap sell was a little on the big side, none of the bolts fitted and it only just fitted on and was really close to the back of the radiator support thingo/aircon condensor

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the stanley harmonic balancer puller that supercheap sell was a little on the big side, none of the bolts fitted and it only just fitted on and was really close to the back of the radiator support thingo/aircon condensor

As per SKs tutorial you can use the two top bolts from the cam cover with a couple of washers.

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