Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Replace A Timing Belt (20/25/26) Pics!


51NNA

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have been having the same problem, to get the crank pulley off, but on automatic skyline. To remove or to tighten the pulley bolt there is no common way to stop crankshaft, like put the car in 5th + hand brake up. I designed my own stopper and puller. It cost me about 35€ and the tool works pretty well. Here some pictures:

 

 

100.PNG

200.png

300.png

400.png

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just want to triple check. This woodford key doesnt need to slide into the gear sprocket on the camshaft right? 20191220_154812.thumb.jpg.ffa67ae8eba0a984a266f59485695c18.jpg

It's just the woodford key, a backplate that will push up against the gear when I slide the harmonic balancer on. If I recall the woodford key holds the harmonic balancer on this slot here.  20191220_154829.thumb.jpg.c346ad2036b0f5b9c1abeac292ba2768.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im pretty confident the other one is still in there. I did not remove the crankshaft gear and if I had I'd have seen it. I only removed the harmonic balancer. 

So when I install it, its gonna be the woodruff key (making sure its firmly in place), then the plate that sits against the crankshaft gear, balancer, spacer and bolt then tighten to specs. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

Im pretty confident the other one is still in there. I did not remove the crankshaft gear and if I had I'd have seen it. I only removed the harmonic balancer. 

So when I install it, its gonna be the woodruff key (making sure its firmly in place), then the plate that sits against the crankshaft gear, balancer, spacer and bolt then tighten to specs. 

That's correct. If you didn't touch the gear no worries. A woodruff key can't slide out

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

what about torque specs when putting everything back on? there are also a few good YouTube videos to watch before just following this guide. Id recommend changing the water pump whilst you are there. Anyone know if the OEM or the same as the Greddy or HKS belt kits? I don't know If its advertising or they all are the same shit? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...