Jump to content
SAU Community

Piglet's Rebuild Of His Busted Tomei 2.8


Recommended Posts

17 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Given the amount of shit he has copped, I hope nobody gets a ride lol

With his indifference to having the job finished , he deserves to be dumped on !

We want it finished more than the Pigster , the longer it takes, the longer he has his $s in the bank, tight arse , lol

I want to go first for a drive , I am not getting any younger :( 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

oh yeah you're right, it's not the OEM lid, does it still retain that "jet pump" whatever it's called to syphon the fuel from the other half of the tank?

The previous dick head or whoever cocked around with my fuel tank prior to me owning it removed the "jet pump" and I had massive issues with fuel surging/starvation under 1/3 of a tank LOL.

Used a Sard product that's used in Evo's.

I have the stock gear at home. It's yours if you want it.

IMG_4618.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

"Exhaust is not loud.  The car sounds like a stocker.  Well kind of.  LOL." - Tuner

+ 1 for big quality mufflers and a 4 inch drain pipe. Jap junk can stay in the bin where it belongs!

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
    • We revised the neutral wire instructions. The old way was wrong.  R34 gearbox change.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...