Jump to content
SAU Community

V Upgrade Week!

Recommended Posts

So excited for this week!

Got my Transgo Shift kit being installed as we speak!

Getting my exhaust done tomorrow, quad tips baby!

Got my z tube and JWT pop charger arriving from America wednesday and put my MD 5/16 Plenum spacer in last week.

Shes gonna be a beauty!

Need a tune??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

An Apexi AFC Neo is the current model (and is pretty awesome too) - and can be found about the place for $400-$500. Then a tune on top you are looking around $400 I think - or if you join up with SAU:SA you get a 10% discount from Willalls (which covers your whole membership cost in a single discount).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got an Osirus tune from UpRev in the US. Cost me $700 for the tuner package (allows me to selftune on my own laptop) and just paid for a Dyno. I got around 10WHP. Although americans are claiming to get 30+ but we all know their dyno numbers are stupidly inflated.

Edited by sheldon2369
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see.

I might look into it a bit later on down the track. I'll see how happy I am with all these upgrades. I'm sure I will be stoked. And still very keen for our cruise on the 24th of june! If people can still make it.

Sheldon...how did you find the shift kit? Please give me hope haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's weird that most chatter on the US forums says that the shift kit does bugger all on the V35 - and I have had a few people tell me that Mike from MV Automatics actually talked them OUT of doing it, as a waste of money. So I had never considered bothering. But recently I have heard a couple of people say that it is awesome. I am confused.

But I will be keen to see what yours is like Sam (and how much it cost in total).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You must get the shift kit!!!

Holy S^%@, insane! Well worth every penny.

Dangerous to even drive half fast on wet roads. The tranny is so quick with its shift and it feels unbelievable!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fitted the shift kit in my M35 stagea and a big improvement. You V guys will notice a bigger improvement than me as the M35 ECU retards timing on shifting where as I don't think the V does, resulting in a firmer shift than what the M35 gets. It drives as smooth as standard on low throttle even though it changes quicker and with extra throttle it changes really quick and firmer without flaring but no 2nd gear chirping due to the awd.

To me this is a must do mod. And if your confident with turning the spanners do it yourself. I did mine and it's not hat hard, just take your time and have a mate there to double check everything.

MV also told me not to bother doing it as he said not enough improvement but after doing it, it's deffinately worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, try the new studs first, in case the US sourced studs are actually the problem. But given that the head is off the engine, at least it won't be too hard for someone to install helicoils if it turns out the holes are stuffed. You don't want to just run a tap or chaser through there if by doing so you leave behind 3/10ths of f**k all thread and the studs just pull straight out when you torque up the manifold nuts.
    • Hey everyone, I’m having a bit of a crisis and would like some advice.  I am in the process of assembling a head I had gotten back after NAPREC did their work. I had the exhaust studs removed prior to sending it to the machine shop, but afterwards when I tried threading in new studs, they wouldn’t go in straight. They would thread in smoothly by hand with almost no effort, but it doesn’t go in straight (noticeably circular motion) and eventually stops about halfway in. I had a couple go in perfectly straight with no effort, but when I removed them to try it again, they no longer when in straight and had the same issue as the others. The studs I’m using are M8x1.25, which I read was the standard. I did some research and decided to buy a chaser kit and new studs IEE NZ just in case. Has anyone experienced this? How screwed am I? Do I just need to run a chaser or tap and try again? Prefer a chaser because I heard taps can destroy existing threads.    Note: I also have a new set of intake studs that went straight in just fine that I bought from IEE NZ. I bought the exhaust studs from the U.S.
    • Photos. What you describe sounds impossible, given how the arms are assembled to the upright.
    • Hello everyone.  Since the last stint of turbo upgrades, the intake plumbing from air filter to turbo was made up of sections of ally pipe and silicone bends. This was done as the stock suction pipe was so restrictive, it was noticable on the dyno. The configuration and layout of the m35 engine bay meant that the intake plumbing was too close to the exhaust manifold, even in contact with the heat sheild in one spot. Apart from that i had to use the first section of the stock suction pipe bolted onto the turbo. Although the setup was much better than the stock suction pipe, it still caused some restriction and excesive heat into the incoming air. Its like trying to suck a thickshake through a thin soft drink straw, possible, but you gotta work really hard. Then add the heat...for those that may not know, the hotter the air, the further the oxygen molecules are apart and the less explosive a given area of air is when mixed with fuel, hence, why intercoolers work (compressing air makes the molecules move faster which also generates heat). Water injection and nitrous oxide injection also use the same principle.  As the M35 Stagea intake and suction pipe options on the market are very very limited, i decided to fabricate my own from the turbo to the filter and include one silicone joiner to allow for engine twist.  If anyone is interested while I'm in the process, I could manufacture a couple more but you gotta let me know soon. I'll post some pictures soon.
    • Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone else has run into a similar issue. I recently installed ikeya Formula -15mm upper camber arms and lowered the car a bit. Right after the upright knuckle arm started to hit the upper camber arm making the car bottom out in while driving over small bumps in corners or dips on the highway. (Not even pushing the car) I was running HKS hipermax IVgt coils with 8K springs up front. Thought if i changed out the springs for 10K it would solve the problem, it did not.. Arms are still hitting. I asked a guy on instagram who is running the same upper arms, 8K springs up front and even a bit lower than my car sits. Guy has no problem of the arms hitting. Anyone else that has run into this issue or might have an idea of what could be the issue? I been told they might be installed backwards but the arms are as good as symmetrical and they fitted perfectly the way they are installed now.   
  • Create New...