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R34 Wont Start After Playing With Afm

BlackBox

By BlackBox,
in General Maintenance

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BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have a R34 Gtt with a Z32 AFM, I removed my AFM and found that the mesh on the back of it was badly damaged, so i removed it all together (The rear mesh only, front mesh is fine), i also sprayed some Electra-Clean spray on the AFM wires and screen to clean it.

I reinstalled the afm and now the car will not run.. It starts and dies almost instantly, if i use any throttle it dies even quicker..

To remove and install it i had to remove a few hoses going to the inter cooler, but i have checked them all and they don't seem like they are leaking..

I have tried starting it with the AFM disconnected and it was the same..

I am thinking that i have either damaged the AFM with the electra-clean (Although it is made for cleaning electrical components??)

Or that i have a boost leak, although it would have to be very bad for it to cause the car to not even idle.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Car will still idle with a boost leak, it will hunt badly while idling. It should start and idle though with the AFM disconnected (limp home mode).

It's likely the solder joints need re-doing on the AFM, or the AFM plug needs to be fixed/replaced. Are you sure you didn't leave a rag or something in the piping?

Why did you remove the AFM anyway?

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
  • Author
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Im not sure what you're saying? Im actually not sure what ECU it has, it already had the Z32 AFM on it when i bought it, and never had any problems so im assuming it it was installed correctly.. It must be from something i have done when removing the afm

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

If you do have a stock ECU, you could try disconnecting the battery and pumping the brake pedal to get all the charge out the system so the ECU has to re-learn timing etc. If you have a aftermarket ECU like a PowerFC this won't do anything.

If you are running a Z32 AFM on a untuned stock ECU, your spark plugs will be completely black from overfueling (once they're fouled to hell it's difficult to start an engine on them), pull one plug out or all them out and take a look.

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The splice job looks fine..

Its not like i have just installed the AFM, it was on the car fine and i just removed and reinstalled it and now its having problems.. And i thought that trying to start with the afm unplugged would eliminate any afm problem?

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

The factory plug doesn't fit a Z32 AFM, so a Z32 plug needs to be spliced into the existing wiring. scotty is just suggesting to look at the splicing, whether it was properly soldered or wires just twisted together with electrical tape wrapped around is the question. At the splice 2 (or more) wires that shouldn't be touching might be touching (especially if just twisted and taped). You might have to do some poking around with a multimeter at the splice and at the plug.

If the mesh was screwed, it might have even been a fake Z32

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i understand about the splice, i checked the connections and they are soldered and individually heat-shrunk..

Im still not understanding how the afm could be the culprit if it still wont start with it unplugged?

And how can i tell if its a fake Z32 AFM? , i have already checked the sticker and part numbers and they seem genuine..

Thanks for all the help so far

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

If the connections look fine at the splice and the ecu and the plug isn't corroded then you have no other choice but to test another AFM, I have one here you can try but where are you located?

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
  • Author
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i just dont see how the wiring or Plugs could foul just from removing and reinstalling the afm?

I checked the AFM voltage on The power FC, and while the key was "on", and for the very brief moment while the car idles it read

"10-15MV" and in the sensor check it said AFL.01 V

I have read that it is meant to be .3V, but it is a very small difference, could this be a problem?

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