Jump to content
SAU Community

For Sale 1998 R34 Gt-T Coupe

Recommended Posts

Hi folks, so my car is going up for sale.

Its a white 1998 model Skyline R34 GT-T, 2.5litre NEO straight 6 turbo, Coupe, Semi-Automatic, excellent condition inside and out, no mechanical issues, body is very straight, paint is very good, few little nicks and scratches here or there which is to be expected with a car of this age but nothing noticeable, no rust, interior is very tidy, no rips/tears. very reliable, good solid example of an R34. 203,000km's.

I have the logbook and car manual from japan too. Asking price is $10,500

*18 inch rims and two new tyres, other two will be replaced if they do not pass the roady.

*Tinted windows.

*3 inch mild steel exhaust from turbo back and K&N pod filter.

*Lowered about an inch, still very practical to drive.

*Strut brace.

*Jvc mp3 head unit.

Other than these mods the car is stock standard, boost has not been altered, nothing has been messed around with.

Car has QLD rego til16/08/12, I will be providing a roadworthy/safety slip upon sale. Everything works as it should and all the instruments read normal, temps,pressure etc. The car has been carefully maintained, im a mature owner, not a hoon. Car has a clear title and nothing owing on it.

Im happy to ship the car interstate but it will be at the buyers expense and the money will need to be cleared first. if you would like to take a look at it thats fine,I live just off the southern end of the Gold Coast in Kingscliff, I work long hours though so it would have to be after about 7pm, any night is ok. I cannot usually answer the phone at work so please text or leave a voicemail and ill return your call asap,or you can just pm me on here.

My name is Aaron

ph - 0414 660 938

email - [email protected]



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Price drop to $10,000 neat! Need this to go soon for my trip OS. I will need a cheap runabout car or bike for when I come back home so I may be interested in a part cash part car/bike deal, I don't want a car/bike over the value of $2,000 though as I need mostly cash for my trip. If anyone wants to ask any further questions about the car or has any offers feel free to pm or call (leave a MSG or text if I don't answer and I'll get back to you ASAP).

Cheers guys. Aaron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got quoted £50 per knuckle to vapor hone them, so bought a sand blasting cabinet and did it myself  Pretty happy with the first attempt  I didn't get a before picture, I was too excited to use my new toy  The knuckle was pretty much black though when I started
    • Sounds like all you want is a button on your CAN dash pad that is for 2-step / anti lag launch.  Hold the button down, rev limit gets set to whatever you want, say 5000 rpm. Then mass timing is pulled and a heap of fuel is dumped in for fun times. Want more bangs and flames, pull more timing or add more fuel or both lol.  Obviously the more you use the fun button, the shorter the life of the entire hot side of your motor. So valves, turbo, cat, any sensors in the exhaust, etc etc. Well, if you are using it for its intended purpose it is very rewarding. If you are at the drags and want to launch on full boost, how else are you going to do that?
    • Engines are expensive. You already mentioned having thermal management issues with your car, anti-lag dramatically raises EGTs and can easily damage a cylinder head. If your goal is actually to improve transient response I recommend VCAM. DBW can also help here. Instead of a simple mapping of accelerator pedal position to throttle opening instead you interpret the accelerator pedal as a certain torque/power request and the throttle will open more or less to achieve that. So if your desired acceleration requires getting 0.5 bar of boost the throttle will silently go wide open to spool the turbos, then as it gets to that target intake manifold pressure it will adjust the throttle back to the steady state target. Another trick you can play is detecting when a shift is happening using a strain gauge and clutch switch for example and rather than snap the throttle shut when the accelerator pedal closes you cut fuel injection and hang the throttle open to keep the turbo from slowing down. This is a pretty complicated trick to play though as if it got stuck in that logic you would have engine runaway and you want to make sure the engine RPMs actually fall at a reasonable rate instead of rev hanging badly.
    • What sort of power difference do you think you'll see between the two engines? Is it just the extra RPM from the wide journal that you're chasing?
  • Create New...