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Spat Power Steering Belt With New Ross Tuffbond


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I like simon have spoken to john who has taken on Ross performance parts and his approach and knoledge is a credit to him and the product will only benefit from there involvement, I have used Ross balancers on my race engines in excess of 500 rwkw and 10000 rpm with not one failure of an oil pump or loss of a belt.. I have witnessed in the past many Ross balancers being fitted with incorrect offsets (power steer to crank pulley) this may have been due to incorrect supply or in accurate information regarding pump etc at the time of purchase, and many of these crank bolts have never been correctly tensioned, it is the repsonsabilty of the installer to ensure radial and face run out is correct before running the engine. In regards to oil pump failures if you use a n1 pump without steel gears then don't blame the balancer for your poor judgement. If you have an issue with a Ross product do your self a favour and pick up the phone and call john

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When you say not tensioning properly, what do you mean and is this mainly with the 26's and 30's?

I just put mine on last week again, I use a touch of loctite on shaft, normal amount on bolt and pull it as tight as I can with a 700mm breaker bar, with car in 5th gear. The 26's are meant to be 460 odd NM? How the eff can you do that without 3 meters of pipe?

Mines a 25.

Edited by abr33
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I used to use a breaker bar that was intended for flipping over the little wheels on a moveable 2WD dyno dynamics dyno ;) Its about 1.5 metres long and we used to swing off it to tighten up the crank bolt. She was never coming lose. Pain in the ass if you dont go back to the same shop to have it undone though

I now use my breaker bar with a jack handle on the end of it and still swing off it. I hope like mad that its tight enough and we dont have any issues ;)

I have never spat a power steering belt either. Might help though that its in an S14 and uses an S14 power steering pump

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I just got the replacement dampener back today in the mail.

So all good on the company's part.

In regards to doing up the big bolt, on the RB26, putting it in gear isn't enough unless the car won't move when you put a 2 metre long pole on the end of your breaker bar!

My way was to drill a hole in line with the flywheel teeth in the bellhousing to fit a big flat blade screw driver in there to lock the flywheel.

Had a mate do up the bolt bit by bit with an extension pole while I was underneath holding the screwdriver.

Worked very well.

Otherwise I use a flywheel lock made by Eric when the gbox is off the engine.

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I just got the replacement dampener back today in the mail.

So all good on the company's part.

In regards to doing up the big bolt, on the RB26, putting it in gear isn't enough unless the car won't move when you put a 2 metre long pole on the end of your breaker bar!

My way was to drill a hole in line with the flywheel teeth in the bellhousing to fit a big flat blade screw driver in there to lock the flywheel.

Had a mate do up the bolt bit by bit with an extension pole while I was underneath holding the screwdriver.

Worked very well.

Otherwise I use a flywheel lock made by Eric when the gbox is off the engine.

Gtr has a bigger bolt. Id guarantee stripping bolt or snapping crank where collar is grub screwed if you did it that tight on a 25.

Cant you have hand brake on with someone on foot brake? and in 5th gear?

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  • 4 weeks later...

RB20/25/30's crank bolt is torqued to 142 - 152Nm. Most torque wrenches will do that, so there is no excuse for not torquing the crank bolt on those engines.

RB26, different story, 446 - 466Nm to torque that sucker. Only proper way to do it would be to have it in the car (Engine stand will move far too much applying that torque), sump off, nice stopper between the crank wall and the crank and use a 1" torque wrench capable of that torque. Might have to pay someone like a truck tyre shop to borrow a wrench that big for a day.

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  • 1 month later...

mmm.. glad he fixed it. but in my case I am 110% sure this was not the issue. Went to great lengths to ensure it was perfectly lined up and straight. Even bought a laser alignment tool just to be certain.

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  • 2 years later...

So mine is spitting belts with this setup. Looks like the belt is trying to run over the front of the balancer. Will double check pulley alignment.

How does one go about moving the power steering pump back towards the rear of the engine??

Also looks like I will need to keep an eye on the longevity of the balancer too?? Few people reporting failures after 15,000kms.

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  • 3 years later...

Just finished installing my race series balancer and trigger kit. 

After Initial fitment I ran a straight edge from balancer to power steering pulley and found the power steering pulley around 2mm out of square and alignment. 

This is using rb30 block, crank and power steering pump and bracket with an rb30 spec balancer. 

Some massaging of the pump mounts with a flappy disc and a die grinder had it lined up perfectly. 

Just word for thought I would always recommended double checking belt/pulley alignment to save future hassles. 

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Just thought I would add Regarding belts, the power steering belt on the 32 GTR version has to be shorter as the stock 4PK950 is to long. Has to be changed to the same as aircon. Belts-

Alternator - 4PK880

Aircon - 4PK925

Power steering - 4PK925

Also re. Torque on 26 balancers. We use an old starter motor cut in half and welded locked, so you can use it as a flywheel locking device. No problem getting to 460nm.

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