Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


HOT_R33

Rd28 Development


Recommended Posts

I know a guy in the ukrane that is rebuilding his RD28 based RB30. He is using a Nitto RB30 90mm crank this time. The last engine made upwards of 1200-1300hp, and ran 8's in an R33 GTR shell. In the end a piston cracked and let go, resulting in a rod leaving sideways through the block. Only the cams survived, everything else was a total loss. This is generally the result of any failure in a high power engine. Small issues become big issues very quickly, and then its all over.

He used an RD28 because RB30's aren't available over there. The extra water jacketing around the outside of the block makes the more rigid for sure, but the cylinders aren't any thicker than an RB26/RB30 block once bored from 83 to 86mm. They are about 92-94mm OD at most. That being said the rigidity the water jacketing adds around the block would do wonders to greatly reduce twist induced block cracking.

I believe his RD was also 1/2-3/4 grout filled. Cooling wasnt an issue as he ran methanol. No thermostat and an electric water pump with a resivour was the extent of the cooling system. No radiator. Running no more than about 60 seconds from burnout to finish line helped too.

I see one other advantage to using the RD28 block as well. The Rb30's are getting more and more scarce. Using an RD28 allows blocks to be scavenged from a whole lot more patrols as well as the ford mavericks.

If I can find some more pictures of his engine I'll post them up.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Still available new from Nissan as well. That was the other big factor, it had to be sustainable through at least 3 rebuilds over an extended period. Readily available brand new blocks for a reasonable price certainly helps.

My understanding is the cast composite is a little stronger in the newer RD28 as the tech wasn't available at the time the RB30's were being produced. Much the same issue as the 32/33 cross over period in the RB26 ie Blocks cracking due to a bad run of casts 1994/5.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Neo 25 head will fit with some modification. Not much though.

It has probably been mentioned but I easily miss stuff so dumb question time

What head do these blocks take? The 26 or can you use a 25 neo head?

I did warn you all it was a dumb question

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll pass for a street car... much better engine choices out there for cheap displacement in a skyline

You sound like a broken record. Why don't you finish your car so we can all see what this 'big displacement skyline can do'. FFS!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You sound like a broken record. Why don't you finish your car so we can all see what this 'big displacement skyline can do'. FFS!

And you and your RB30 crew don't?

"OMG fork lift motors are the best!!!" *Wank Wank Wank*

LOL

If you want to see what they can do, go have a look at some! 500rwkw on 1bar with completely stock bottom ends and lasting 50000+ KMs of thrashing...

Or 11 second 1/4 miles in cars 200 to 400 KG heavier with very basic changes staying NA.

The world already knows what they can do!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this project ready and running or still work in progress? What headgasket are you going to use? I'm building rd28/rb26 combo and only problem is the headgasket. Copper headgasket would be good but aren't those prone to mix oil and cooling fluid?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Success of a copper head gasket sealing comes down to the surface prep of the block and head, and if you spray the gasket with hylomar to seal it up.... or not.

An o-ringed block (and especially if you o-ring the head to create a w-seal) will seal a properly prepped head and block better than any other method. Andrey uses this exact setup along with H11 tool steel head studs (L19 grade ARP stud), and it doesn't lift the head or cross-contaminate the fluids.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would just like to use copper head gasket without o-rings. I might try that and if it doesn't hold then try something different.

I also have rd28 head gasket which might be able to use with little mods.

That engine is going to have rod/stroke ratio of 1.91:1. :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

For copper head gaskets have a look here: http://www.headgasket.com/faq.html

And also look at his products page and the compression rings that he makes. They are basically 3-4 thou shim steel rings that go around the combustion chambers/cylinders. Adding a little extra thickness here focuses the head clamping forces to create a better combution seal around the cylinders. The rest of the website is a good read too. The gaskets are quite cheap as well.

Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.ridgecrest.com.au/3201.htmlCustom copper head gaskets in au

I used Ridgecrest once. The tolerances were so far off the gasket was unusable. It seemed his cnc machine had a linearity error, and produced a gasket that moved the dowels centres 1.1mm closer together. The backup service was less than satisfying too, blaming my design as being at fault. Never mind that the same bore and hole centre positions were used to make the block and spacer plate.

QLD Gaskets on the other hand, were as accurate as my CNC machined spacer plates and centred perfectly on my 89mm cylinder bores.

Link to post
Share on other sites

interested thinking hard about rb26 neo head , rd28 block - have only started thinking about it the last few days. Sounds a better fit for the skyline r33... will keep an eye on the horizon for any one else heading down the road of 26/28 , (26/30).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Latest Posts

    • Far out, people still post here occasionally!
    • I still await Startrack for my Balancer. In the meantime, my lovely girlfriend sold her Turbo MX5. Her criteria was "Something Japanese, Fun, but a hatchback" (cause she doesnt like 100kmh highways in a MX5, and tends to go to bunnings a lot) Basically my Megane, but Japanese. Because she is blessed, not cursed, this is now in the driveway, 1 day later. Bonus Extras (that she and seller didn't notice, but I did) Genuine P1 Buddy Clubs Genuine Mugen Wang Short shifter of some sort (shifts amazingly, def not stock - we test drove a few cars) Aftermarket Helical LSD (Quaife?) One of the other ones we tested had an Intake, for max VTEC sounds. So we're getting one of those. As for how it drives, I have now experienced 3 different cars in this household I should primarily drive around instead of my R34. I googled bolt on supercharger kits for the K20, which was the inspiration for my mate's supercharged BMW, and found that when I overlaid a video of someone doing a 50-250kmh pull, and my own video at Sandown in the LS Skyline... they were identical in acceleration. Every frame of the entire thing. It was eerie. My lovely gf is extremely happy, and I am too. They really do drive excellently, and the fit and finish and interior is just awesome. I am more excited to drive this thing around than my own car, which I hope to high heaven is just because it's new to me and a great deal/hilariously good buy. However this completes our household change from Turbo life to N/A Purity!
    • Yeah, it's a real thing  But isn't that what hobbies are for
    • Yes, a brand new box needs to wear in a little, and the "big box" is actually pretty beefy compared to most. Just treat it nice for 500klm then change the oil, see if it improves
    • Just put in a brand new RB25DET big box, auto conversion. Last time I drove manual was my 260Z, 15 years ago. But this box seems a bit notchy shifting up. Are new gearboxes like this? Do they have a break in period? Also noticed a vibration on the clutch pedal when shifting close to red line. It is R34 box, with a pull clutch. I installed a new Nismo sports clutch with a slightly lighter flywheel. I am running Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90. Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...