Need Adelaide Skyline Guru Who Can Tune And Diagnose R33 Will Pay $

[cosworth1971]

Hi

I dont know alot about these cars, even dyno tuners shy away from them.I have a 1996 GTST

I need someone with experience who can look at my car and hep with some issues im having, Im willing to pay them but im not rich.

Even advice to a good dyno tuner, I live north of adelaide and have been to southern hi-tech dyno as he was great but hes a little far.

However im willing to travel far if its a skyline specialist.

Towler tuners up here said they didnt know enough to accept the car.

Im having boosting issues since i installed FMIC and Full big exhaust.

Overboosting,actuator ,boost setup problems

Would like someone to check timing, AAC adjustment, Coilpacks , plugs, actuator pressure , ecu codes ect.

I have been tuning car myself and tuning this stuff by the manual but need a experts touch to make sure what im doing is right.

Who is the jackie chan of skylines in adelaide and doesnt charge a arm or leg?dyno a bonus.

thanks Brett

Edited August 15, 2012 by cosworth1971

[cosworth1971]

Payment can be in Beers if it attracts you more lol

[Krishy]

There are plenty of good workshops in the northern part of Adelaide. Check the workshops thread in the sticky section mate.

Willall, Boostworx, Morpowa, Fours n More, Boostin Oz to name a few decent workshops

[cosworth1971]

ok thankyou i will look into them but they charge quiet a lot?.

Sort of after someone who i can watch and learn from too, giving me advice on what i have done correctly

only have a few hundred $ atm at that wont pay for much at a dyno, dont have money to pay for days of work and dont want to leave car overnight somewhere.

I wouldnt mind just someone private backyard ,who's passionate and likes to hang under the bonnet a suck RD25det fumes for kicks lol

Plus they get to go fang in my car if it needs testing, there has to be Mr meyagi of skylines somewhere in adelaide.

2 hours of the right help on a sunday or anyday would help me to understand, it may be a case i have done most things correct.

Pm me if you have r33 turbo experience,have some spare time and would like some extra cash

[Ionos]

Hi mate,

Going to a workshop will be the easiest option but also the most expensive.

Do you have an aftermarket ECU, I didn't see one mentioned in your list of mods? If you dont have one or a piggy back device like an Apexi SAFC then there is very little 'tuning' needed with these cars. 'Dyno Tuning' without an aftermarket ECU or Piggy back device is pointless.

A few quick tips that might help if you want to pursue DIY.

- if you're on the stock ECU then you really shouldn't run any higher then 10 PSI. Higher then this will go into rich and retard mode, and aren't healthy for the standard turbo. If you've increased the boost then try lowering it a bit and see if that helps.

- the AAC doesn't really need adjusting but cleaning it out however can help with a smoother idle if you're finding that it flucuates or hunts. There's a tutorial on the forums, it's not hard to do if you have the right tools. It's worth investing in a socket spanner set and a ring/flare spanner set. The right tools make the job easy, without them it's a bloody nightmare. If your idle is fine then I wouldn't touch it.

- on coilpacks: If you have a spark problem then you'll notice on high boost your car will make a machine gun/rally car type sound. It's quite obvious. If you haven't replaced your spark plugs in a while, this is a good place to start and make sure you gap them to 0.8mm. When putting your coilpacks back in wrap them up in electrical tape (again check the DIY forum). Don't boost higher then 10PSI as above. This has a good chance to solve any problems without having to buy new coilpacks.

- ECU codes. Unless your check engine light is coming on, don't worry about it

- FMIC: I personally think that for street use these are a bad thing unless you are investing in a bigger/hi flow turbo and ECU upgrade. In real street use, there is no usable power gain and you lose a lot of response which is very important for daily driving. There's lots of people who will disagree no doubt.

By all means take it to a workshop if you want of course, just trying to save you some moolah mate!

[Carbon 34]

Hi mate,

Going to a workshop will be the easiest option but also the most expensive.

Do you have an aftermarket ECU, I didn't see one mentioned in your list of mods? If you dont have one or a piggy back device like an Apexi SAFC then there is very little 'tuning' needed with these cars. 'Dyno Tuning' without an aftermarket ECU or Piggy back device is pointless.

A few quick tips that might help if you want to pursue DIY.

- if you're on the stock ECU then you really shouldn't run any higher then 10 PSI. Higher then this will go into rich and retard mode, and aren't healthy for the standard turbo. If you've increased the boost then try lowering it a bit and see if that helps.

- the AAC doesn't really need adjusting but cleaning it out however can help with a smoother idle if you're finding that it flucuates or hunts. There's a tutorial on the forums, it's not hard to do if you have the right tools. It's worth investing in a socket spanner set and a ring/flare spanner set. The right tools make the job easy, without them it's a bloody nightmare. If your idle is fine then I wouldn't touch it.

- on coilpacks: If you have a spark problem then you'll notice on high boost your car will make a machine gun/rally car type sound. It's quite obvious. If you haven't replaced your spark plugs in a while, this is a good place to start and make sure you gap them to 0.8mm. When putting your coilpacks back in wrap them up in electrical tape (again check the DIY forum). Don't boost higher then 10PSI as above. This has a good chance to solve any problems without having to buy new coilpacks.

- ECU codes. Unless your check engine light is coming on, don't worry about it

- FMIC: I personally think that for street use these are a bad thing unless you are investing in a bigger/hi flow turbo and ECU upgrade. In real street use, there is no usable power gain and you lose a lot of response which is very important for daily driving. There's lots of people who will disagree no doubt.

By all means take it to a workshop if you want of course, just trying to save you some moolah mate!

All good info for r33 owner

Check engine codes jot down and fix !!

Fix all the vacuum leaks in fmic It will have some

Clean iac ( in this weather idle goes crazy when its dirty)

Clean plugs or change

Clean coil packs and crack check

Check o2 sensor , replace or at least clean off

Clean afm wire with proper cleaner and change or clean airfilter no oil type!!

Check vacuum line from fuel reg to manifold for cracks or looseness

Change fuel filter

Clean battery terminals

And reset ecu at the same time ,

Now go for a short drive , driving normal

should be better or fixed

[Ionos]

Fix all the vacuum leaks in fmic It will have some

Ahh I can't believe I didn't mention checking for vacuum leaks! You're right of course this is the very first thing one should do

If you have access to an air pump or compressor, it's easy to test for leaks in the intake system. Just remove the AFM and find a can of baked beans or similar that fits in it's place (75mm diameter) to seal the system. Then remove the hose attached to your top intercooler pipe and attach your compressor, pressurise the system to 15 PSI and listen for leaks. If you find it's not holding pressure you might need to turn the engine over a few times (depending on the position of the crankshaft your valves won't always have a perfect seal.

Just don't over pressurise the system or you might below a pipe off (have someone watch the boost gauge in the cabin and stop when it hits +7).

[Carbon 34]

Go to bunnings and buy a pvc block off screw in type in correct size 2.5" or ? That way you can use hose clamps to hold it in tight ?

And buy a quick release screw on fitting for aircompressor , drill out the pvc in the centre and let it self tap into the plastic , rtv silicone it outside ( dont want a chunk of silicone breaking off into your intake) use that for pressure test instead you can buy two block offs if you want to test in closed loop

Dont go nuts watch the compressor pressure it could crack the thin tubes fmic with ease

You could get fancy and do a vacuum fitting to attach boost gauge as well

Edited August 16, 2012 by Carbon 34

[Krishy]

Also mentioning your issues/problems on here might help. Sometimes it can be a very easy fix job too

[cosworth1971]

Guys think ive found the problem.

Today I fixed a $4 clamp in my Fmic and car has never felt so good, its crisp and sharp on the thottle,it boost well but to arund 9psi now.

Ive Never been so happy with my car, thankyou to everyone for your help,beers at forum meets on me lol.

Before my car felt soft,sluggish, its was louad and boosted fast but i think it was "free boosting" with the air leak?.

Still fingers crossed i have fixed it, very happy now.

I am still willing to pay someone for a lesson on how to do basic tune(eg proper timing and AAc adjusting) to these motors though, learning from a PDF manual is not as good as first hand experience.

I plead to everyone, if youthink its your coilpacks,check for leaks, i was sure it was electrical as it feels very simular.My car was drivable before it just had these high boost issues, the power was very on or off $4 clamp later my engine feels refined and smooth.

Hope its all good now, thanks guys!

[Ionos]

Good stuff!

An air leak will cause the car to report more air going in then is actually being ingested by the engine under boost, thus injecting more fuel then is ideal making the car run rich. This is why it feels sluggish. If it's a big air leak the effect is quite pronounced as the factory ECU will think the car is overboosting due to a larger amount of air coming in then expected in the Airflow/RPM Load map. The ECU then goes into rich (more fuel) and retard (delay spark) mode to protect the engine.

Regarding a 'basic tune' - modern factory ECU engines don't require regular tuning like older cars do. The ECU learns on the fly and takes care of this. What I would suggest is disconnecting your battery for 30 seconds and flick your lights on and off to drain any residual power, then reconnect the battery. This will reset the ECU so it re-learns without the air leak present. See how your idle is and take it from there.

Edited August 16, 2012 by Ionos

[Carbon 34]

Your welcome , a pint will be required at meeting if I'm not driving of course :-)

Like above check error codes then reset the ecu

After the mods the mixture will be too rich and will pull out power ( timing ) on full throttle

[Krishy]

The best way to reset the ecu, I have found is to disconnect the battery and press the brake pedal for 1-2 mins. This drains all power pretty quickly. Then plug it all back in and let the ecu do it thing