Jump to content
SAU Community

Bigger Exhaust = More Boost?


Recommended Posts

still having some issue with my 96 gtst r33 skyline.

Basicaly i have a Blitz 3" full exhaust with big down pipe and decent size Fmic, the exhaust came with a bolt in restrictor,silencer for the end of the exhaust as a option to run.

With the restricter in my car gets to a solid 9-10psi and is basically a missile(never hitting boost cut).

However i like the loud of the system without this restictor/silencer installed on the end, but my car then boost to 10-12psi then just hits boost cut? which is why its annoying me.

The question is , does this sound normal ?and is it normal for big exhaust to make more boost?.

would a r32 7psi actuator be the answer?.

I dont really want big boost yet as im saving for a power fc.

I have fuel cut defender but dont know how to adjust it/install.

Im thinking of trying a 2.5" restrictor plate in exhaust, this silencer is ugly hehe.

Is there ways to keep/get boost low?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

with the restrictor in it boosts as you want and is quieter, win win?

Yeah its not bad quiet but would like it louder without the restrictor.

What are the good cheap option ecu's? would like a power fc but how do the cheaper piggy back ecu's perform?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe your stock turbo's wastgate has reached its limits , it might not be able to vent off any more at the top end so its spiking..

if this is true then your on the edge of needing a hiflow/turbo upgrade

as a cheap alternative you could take the turbo off, remove the exhaust housing , take it to turbo shop and tell them to hone out the wastegate area and fit a larger flapper.. ( XR6 turbo flapper was used on my old turbo)

then your boost should be whatever the spring is..

Edited by SliverS2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah its not bad quiet but would like it louder without the restrictor.

What are the good cheap option ecu's? would like a power fc but how do the cheaper piggy back ecu's perform?

it's hard to do good & cheap with ecus, nistune prob most eco, link g4 is good ,does boost control & doesn't need z32 afm so in the long run not too bad if you're going to go further, there's a few reputable tuners on here so see who's in your area and they'll be able to recommend for your goals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe your stock turbo's wastgate has reached its limits , it might not be able to vent off any more at the top end so its spiking..

if this is true then your on the edge of needing a hiflow/turbo upgrade

as a cheap alternative you could take the turbo off, remove the exhaust housing , take it to turbo shop and tell them to hone out the wastegate area and fit a larger flapper.. ( XR6 turbo flapper was used on my old turbo)

then your boost should be whatever the spring is..

i did think this with boost creep but how common is this senario?

I mean my car is std except pod,bigger fmic and big exhaust.

I think i need to make sure its a 5psi actuator?as it may have a 10psi one.

about the std r33 dont they get to 7psi? not 5psi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's hard to do good & cheap with ecus, nistune prob most eco, link g4 is good ,does boost control & doesn't need z32 afm so in the long run not too bad if you're going to go further, there's a few reputable tuners on here so see who's in your area and they'll be able to recommend for your goals

thanks

what of wolf ecu? or greddy ecu?

Im seeing them cheap atm.

I did think nistune but is it just plug and play?like swappng a pc graphics card? basic tune on it? diy it? until i can save for tunes

sorry still a noob with skylines obviously hehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did think this with boost creep but how common is this senario?

I mean my car is std except pod,bigger fmic and big exhaust.

I think i need to make sure its a 5psi actuator?as it may have a 10psi one.

about the std r33 dont they get to 7psi? not 5psi

If you had an R32 actuator on it you would always have had at least 10 psi boost. Seeing as you used to have 9-10, then it IS possible that your actuator is not a 5psi one.

My suggestion. Put the silencer in, and don't worry about having a louder exhaust until you can afford the management issue. Noise is just fashion, and fashion is for wankers. The only thing that is really important is how well shit works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5psi till 4500 rpm then 7psi. If you ground one of the cables then you can mod it to run 7psi constant =)

He just said before that he has a straight vacuum hose from the pressure source to the wastegate actuator. So he doesnt have any wires to ground. Also, he wants to lower the boost, not increase it.

The stock wastegate should be fine with those mods, and a little gate creep is normal. You don't need a bigger wastegate flap, a new ECU or a high flowed turbo. And you shouldn't need to run a stupid f**king restrictor in the exhaust. Your just painting over dirt.

I'm willing to bet it has a bigger actuator fitted, just go and fit the original actuator back onto it and your problems will be solved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can
    • Yeah not sure what the warranty was, but it will be years outside it.  I've shot Link a message, will see what happens, I'm told their support is good. It is a plug in, so its a Link board in a factory case, very easy to access both sides of the circuit board by removing the top or bottom cover. To be fair the the Link, although I've checked to the factory connections and wiring specs, as we learned with Neil's car in the early days not all ECUs source power the same way. He'd been running a factory ECU with no trouble for years, but when we plugged a PowerFC in it wouldn't start up, just kept cycling power on and off. We worked out that the car was missing one of the 10a fuses "Electronic Parts", and to Neil's knowledge it had never been there. Turns out the ECU pulled its main power from that source not the same place the factory ECU did.  Point being....there are multiple battery and ECCS power sources in the factory ECU, and multiple grounds as well....not telling from the outside exactly what the Link uses (and doesn't use)
    • Now, thanks to sonicii, onto the uneven floor from a tyre sticking 100mm into the boot space. I looked into options to raise the floor to the level of the tyre, and ended up going Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). EPS is what I normally think of as polystyrene, the annoying tiny balls that get glued into a flat sheet but XPS is quite different, much firmer and doesn't crumble if you touch it with anything. I also looked at things like heavy duty seating foam but XPS seemed like the right way. I picked up 3x 1200x600x50 sheets for $40ea. Initially I was looking for 100mm sheets because I needed to make up a 100mm gap, but as it turned out 50mm was available, much easier to work with and made it simple to store the tools I used a simple 15cm foam cutter to make the shapes. With some practice I was able to make reasonably clean cuts but I don't think Clark Rubber are going to be calling me to offer a job. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/405092315205?var=675175481574 First layer in place, 3 dimensions are tricky! Second layer in place, bringing it to level with the top of the spare Cutouts in the top layer for the tools With floor back in place, nice and flat with 100mm stolen but no real impact on usability
    • Sounds like a good idea to me moh
    • Next was to address securing the spare. I don't think it will go anywhere unless I roll the car (which I'm not intending to do until *after* i start race/rallying it  ) While there are quicker options if I had a hoist (like welding a nut under the floor and securing through the wheel stud hole  or even a central bolt wide enough for the hub bore, I went the easy option on the floor. I took 2x stainless M6 eye bolts And put 2 M6 rivuts through the floor, the secured the wheel with a very short rubber strap There is nothing under the floor to worry about on my car so I just picked a flat section so the rivnuts would sit nicely.  I did initially drop the exhaust heatshield but where I actually put the rivnuts cleared that anyway *flicks strap* "that ain't going anywhere!"
×
×
  • Create New...