Jump to content
SAU Community

Coolant Overflow Bottle Bone Dry Second Time


DC33VN
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys long story short i have changed my radiator , thermostat , radiator hoses , radiator cap and water pump and since then my overflow bottle has gone bone dry 2 times and im freaking out as i have checked my oil cap and its not milky and the fact that i have basically changed the whole cooling system and this is happening.

has anyone else had this same problem or know what it could be cos from what iv seen i cant see any coolant leaking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

last time i filled it up when the overflow went empty, now yesterday the coolant had about 2 fingers left in the bottle and i had a looktoday and there is nothing left then i went filled petrol and have not checked the radiator yet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

long story short i bought this car and it sat for 1 year as i was still on my ps and when i was getting a power steering belt changed i later on realised something must of hit the standard radiator and there was a hole so i swapped it out for a just jap one. upon getting my fulls i got it tuned there was a hairline crack in the water pump so that was swapped out and i thought id might as well do the thermostat as the rest of the cooling system was new

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey you bleed the cooling system of air... it could be just bleeding the air from the system and using the coolant from the overflow like it should.

cheers sam

system was bled and filled up after so i doubt it could be that.

If its not leaking on the ground then its probably going in a cylinder,most probably a head gasket.Check the spark plugs,if ones a bit chalky then thats the cylinder

coming to think of it i have had a really bad misfiring on idle so i will def give the spark plugs a check tomorrow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be air still working itself through the system keep on filling up and hope it stops, give it 5 more cold start-ups to be sure.

This happened to me, more then twice when i went for a drive checked the coolant in the morning and nothing was in the overflow

turned out my radiator cap was shot and no pressure was in my hoses (check for pressure in yours) changed it and 2-3 times after that it did the same

thing just not as bad and i just kept on feeling her up until coolant stayed. I reckon air still in the system ! i was afraid my head gasket or worse

cracked block was the problem, thank god it wasn't.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

poppedd in to my mechanics today he is leaning towards a air leak as when he put more fuel into the tune the car started to idle better.

so its going in next monday for a smoke test and a pressure test on the cooling system

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks mate... this is the last thing i need now haha.. had car in lock up for a yr just watching it till i got my fulls and hopefully i dont need to watch it for another yr till i save $ to build the engine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It still needs bleeding there hard to bleed. I keep bleeding it then let it cool down and check overflow bottle until level stablizes takes close to 10 times til fully bled so nothing to worry about, either keep topping it up til it stops losing or bleed it.

Edited by boostn0199
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
    • We revised the neutral wire instructions. The old way was wrong.  R34 gearbox change.pdf
    • Thanks for everyone's reply, I'll make some calls after the weekend. Really appreciate the help on this forum!
    • The MAF isn't even used to get the engine to crank over. It's only looking at RPM and coolant temperature if I recall the Nistune documentation correctly.
×
×
  • Create New...